Oil colour

[d@ve]

Car is a 1.9 TDi 130.

I just checked the engine oil and its a black dirty colour, not the clear brown I would have thought it would be having just had a service.

Looking through the manual it mentions a long life oil, could it be this so the dealer didn't need to change it, is there a way to tell?

[adamss24]

Car is a 1.9 TDi 130.

I just checked the engine oil and its a black dirty colour, not the clear brown I would have thought it would be having just had a service.

Looking through the manual it mentions a long life oil, could it be this so the dealer didn't need to change it, is there a way to tell?
Diesel engines put a lot of soot into the oil and these oils are designed to cope with it and still offer adequate protection for the engines components. Long life engine oils are synthetic and offer even greather protection than mineral oils or synthethic blends( semy synthetics !) as they resist breakdown, flow better in cold wheather and have improved additives packages that are designed to acctivate after 3-4000 miles to reduce engine wear ! Rule of thumb: mineral oils, replace after 2500-3000 miles, semy synth. replace every 4500-5000 miles and fully synthethic replace after 9500-10000 miles. The Mobil 1 fully synthethic oil has been tested successfully on a petrol car and offered adequate protection even at 18000 miles. Diesel engines place more strain on the oils so its wise to replace under 13-15K miles or 1 year, wich ever comes first ! Your car has a PD engine and such its needs an VW PD approved oil as its even more demanding on the oil. The camshaft lobes acctuates the PD injectors and they wear quickly if improper oil spec is used so contact the dealer for corect spec/oils.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Diesel engines put a lot of soot into the oil and these oils are designed to cope with it and still offer adequate protection for the engines components.

Very true, and it surprises many people, when they see their "new" oil looking very black after a week or so!


Long life engine oils are synthetic

Fully synthetic, to be pedantic


and have improved additives packages that are designed to acctivate after 3-4000 miles

What a load of tosh. All fully synthetic oils, LongLife or not, have "improved" additives packages - which will start to "work" from the moment you fire up the engine immediately after the oil change.


Rule of thumb: mineral oils, replace after 2500-3000 miles, semy synth. replace every 4500-5000 miles and fully synthethic replace after 9500-10000 miles.

Old-skool advice, for old-skool cars. Not really appropriate here, as modern Audi turbo-diesels should only be run on fully synthetic oils, and the oil must comply with the VW specification as listed in the owners manual.


The Mobil 1 fully synthethic oil has been tested successfully on a petrol car and offered adequate protection even at 18000 miles.

Marketing hype/crap - Mobil 1 has only "officially" been tested on relatively old and/or easy generic specification standards, such as API SL/CF, and the very old Mercedes-Benz standard MB 229.1 (which is achievable by most semi-synthetics, and even some basic mineral oils). Mobil 1 makes so-called "claims" that their oil meets certain VW, MB, GM, BMW and Porsche standards, even some LongLife standards, but Mobil 1 has NEVER been officially tested to actually prove it can actually meet those manufacturer standards.

If your owners manual only states a VW standard for engine oil, then do NOT use Mobil 1, unless you wish to invalidate your warranty. VW/Audi will perform an oil sample for engine related warranty claims, and will reject any warranty claims when non-specified oil has been used. HonestJohn has had repeated concerns from readers on this very point.


Diesel engines place more strain on the oils

And diesel specific oils are acutally designed to cope with this increased strain.


so its wise to replace under 13-15K miles or 1 year, wich ever comes first !

Horses and courses - if you have the proper spec LongLife oil, and your useage is moderate, then the upto two-year LongLife schedule is acceptable.


Your car has a PD engine and such its needs an VW PD approved oil as its even more demanding on the oil. The camshaft lobes acctuates the PD injectors and they wear quickly if improper oil spec is used so contact the dealer for corect spec/oils.

VW 505.01 for fixed interval (upto one year) maintenance schedules,
VW 506.01 for LongLife (upto two years) variable interval servicing

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Car is a 1.9 TDi 130.

I just checked the engine oil and its a black dirty colour, not the clear brown I would have thought it would be having just had a service.

Looking through the manual it mentions a long life oil, could it be this so the dealer didn't need to change it, is there a way to tell?

If your car had a service, the engine oil would most definately have been changed. Look on your invoice - it should clearly itemise all parts fitted, including the actual quantity, in litres of engine oil used.

[auiron]

Going back a bit, they sold oil that could be used for flushing out and cleaning the engine before the new oil was added.
Some still change their oil every 5,000 miles and run for a short time with cheap oil before the main change. Doing this makes certain your oil starts off very clean.
Unfortunately, in some ways, these old fashioned methods seem to have been forgotten because oils have become so advanced - so we're told anyway.
Once there were only two oils, so, complicated has become very expensive.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Going back a bit, they sold oil that could be used for flushing out and cleaning the engine before the new oil was added.

Mercedes still do offer a flush as part of their service!


Some still change their oil every 5,000 miles and run for a short time with cheap oil before the main change. Doing this makes certain your oil starts off very clean.

Yes, but dirty oil doesnt mean ******* oil; it simply means that the additives are doing their job; by holding the dirty bits in suspension.


Unfortunately, in some ways, these old fashioned methods seem to have been forgotten because oils have become so advanced - so we're told anyway.

With todays modern advanced oils; along with decent filters; longer intervals between oil changes is perfectly satisfactory.


Once there were only two oils, so, complicated has become very expensive.

What; new and used :D :D :D

[auiron]

With todays modern advanced oils; along with decent filters; longer intervals between oil changes is perfectly satisfactory.



What; new and used :D :D :D[/quote]


Hi, as one is only in the New Testament days I have produced a link known as the BIBLE, a bit about Audi Sludge that Audi have been known for producing in less well looked after engines. By the way, Duckhams Q20/50 was the oil to use and another, name escapes me, for up market cars. Cost about 2/6d a gallon ( 12.5p ).

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

[adamss24]

Very true, and it surprises many people, when they see their "new" oil looking very black after a week or so!



Fully synthetic, to be pedantic



What a load of tosh. All fully synthetic oils, LongLife or not, have "improved" additives packages - which will start to "work" from the moment you fire up the engine immediately after the oil change.



Old-skool advice, for old-skool cars. Not really appropriate here, as modern Audi turbo-diesels should only be run on fully synthetic oils, and the oil must comply with the VW specification as listed in the owners manual.



Marketing hype/crap - Mobil 1 has only "officially" been tested on relatively old and/or easy generic specification standards, such as API SL/CF, and the very old Mercedes-Benz standard MB 229.1 (which is achievable by most semi-synthetics, and even some basic mineral oils). Mobil 1 makes so-called "claims" that their oil meets certain VW, MB, GM, BMW and Porsche standards, even some LongLife standards, but Mobil 1 has NEVER been officially tested to actually prove it can actually meet those manufacturer standards.

If your owners manual only states a VW standard for engine oil, then do NOT use Mobil 1, unless you wish to invalidate your warranty. VW/Audi will perform an oil sample for engine related warranty claims, and will reject any warranty claims when non-specified oil has been used. HonestJohn has had repeated concerns from readers on this very point.



And diesel specific oils are acutally designed to cope with this increased strain.



Horses and courses - if you have the proper spec LongLife oil, and your useage is moderate, then the upto two-year LongLife schedule is acceptable.



VW 505.01 for fixed interval (upto one year) maintenance schedules,
VW 506.01 for LongLife (upto two years) variable interval servicing
Mate, you should read the specs on the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel and you will see that its a better option than the standard fixed or extended interval the vw dealer is using on older engines equiped with VE rotary pumps and i was talking of NON PD OIL, because, as you might know , Mobil 1 is not a PD certified oil ! I was telling about a PETROL CAR that has no PD INJECTORS and the oil was FULLY SYNTHETIC and still ofered adeqwate protection at 18000 miles when the oil was replaced and tested by a reputable Yankee laboratory. You wanna keep an synthethic oil for up to 2 years in an engine, please DO SO but DO NOT ADVISE others because its pushing it a bit. Also i used to have a old shape a6 that i used to travel a lot in Europe with and while on a trip in Spain, the gearbox broke and went in Limp Mode and the car made the 2000km trip with the engine running at well over 4000 rpm and thats on FULLY SYN. MOBIL 1 Turbo Diesel oil. When i got back to England, i pulled the head and the camshaft was in perfect condition and the cross-hatch pattern was still visible on the piston bores at 154000 miles. I did replace the turbocharger-JUST IN CASE-even though the car was pulling as it should and did not smoke at all. Remember that in Callais when i was waiting to board the train, the turbocharger was glowing red hot- i still have a picture on my mobile fone to prove ! Sold the car to a friend of mine and its now on 280 K miles on ORIGINAL head and engine and still pulling strong ! Also if you read the posts on tdiclub, most of the additives in an synthetic oil acctivate after 3000-5000 miles and the engine has LESS wear after 3k than when running on fresh changed oil. The synthethics are better flowing than blends ,break down slower than mineral and semy synthetic oils ! Also my dad its a panel beater and i have been in the cars since know myself, hence the know how and i am a handy carpenter who is fed up with so called mechanics that throw new parts at an engine in the hope it will cure a given problem. Where i am camming from a mechanic is a mechanic and there is no such thing as an engineer. Ewerione KNOWS to turn a wrench in Europe !!! Latelly i read posts on the american forums just because they think from time to time compared with peoples overhere ! I do not make my living as an GREASE MONKEY just try to give honest advice to people who know how to read and understand me english. P.S.: please escuse my spelling as my first language is not the english and dont have the time to rethink all the frases to put them right !

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Hi, as one is only in the New Testament days I have produced a link known as the BIBLE, a bit about Audi Sludge that Audi have been known for producing in less well looked after engines. By the way, Duckhams Q20/50 was the oil to use and another, name escapes me, for up market cars. Cost about 2/6d a gallon ( 12.5p ).

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Yes, I am very very familiar with the "Bibles" produced by Chris Longhurst. However, as with the religious bibles, there are many differences between them - different interpretations, different translations, different opinions, different teachings, etc, etc, etc.

There are however, a number of errors or ommissions in his bible, with particular reference to the Audi Sludge bit - the VW standard for 1.8 turbo engines is 502.01, or 503.01, and ONLY fully synthetic oils will meet these requirements.

It is well known throughout the global motor industry, that turbo-charged engines place much much higher demands on their lubrication systems. The specific VW Audi 1.8T sludge problems originated in the US and Canada, mainly because they were ill-advised on the specific lubrication requirements of these turbo engines (after all, what other mainstream cars with turbos did they have). Instead of following the manufacturers specific requirements on the propper engine oil, they reverted to their old-skool ways of thinking, by using el-cheapo mineral oil, but changing it at two or three times sooner than the schedule. These cheapo mineral oils cannot cope with the very high temperatures produced in the bearings of turbos, hence rapidly broke down, causing the black sludge.

This was never really an issue (appart from very isolated cases, from mechanically ignorant people) in the UK and Germany, where most owners will take notice and use the propper spec oil.

Your reference to the Duckhams Q20W50 was from the 1960s and early 1970s. The Duckhams was joined by the original Castrol GTX 20W50 as the two "reference" engine oils of the period. Both are still available today, but both are woefully inadequate for engines manufacturered in the last 20 or so years!

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Mate, you should read the specs on the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel

I have, and I'm reading them again right now. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel has not achieved any VW engine oil specification standard. This is particularly important, as we are afterall, having a discussion in a VW Audi forum.


and you will see that its a better option than the standard fixed or extended interval the vw dealer is using on older engines equiped with VE rotary pumps

No it is NOT a better oil - Mobil 1 has no VW approval.


and i was talking of NON PD OIL, because, as you might know , Mobil 1 is not a PD certified oil !

You are quite right - Mobil 1 has no PD certification, nor any other VW certification.


I was telling about a PETROL CAR that has no PD INJECTORS and the oil was FULLY SYNTHETIC and still ofered adeqwate protection at 18000 miles when the oil was replaced and tested by a reputable Yankee laboratory.

Quote your source then. And quote the exact make and model of the car in question, along with the correct manufacturers specification for engine oil.


You wanna keep an synthethic oil for up to 2 years in an engine, please DO SO but DO NOT ADVISE others because its pushing it a bit.

Erm, personally, I would not keep a generic fully synthetic oil, nor a LongLife specific fully synthetic oil in my car for two years. But that is based on my driving style, vehicle useage, the fact that I buy my oil in bulk, and the fact that I am capable of changing my oil myself. It is purely a personal preferance.

There is now plenty of valuble evidence, from the likes of Lex vehicle leasing, that LongLife oil changes can be perfectly satisfactory, and not cause accelerated engine wear. If any owner does hve concerns about LongLife oil change regime, then the next time their car does have an oil change, ask for a sample of the oil engine oil, and send it to the appropriate lubricants manufacture for a free oil analysis.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the LongLife oil change regime, provided you a/ use the exact specification of oil listed, b/ drive your car in the recommended manner for the LongLife regime, c/ regularly check your engine oil level with the dipstick and top it up to the maximuim level (don't wait for the DIS warning to tell you, because the level will be on the minimum), d/ don't take your car on track days, or generally thrash your car.


Also i used to have a old shape a6 that i used to travel a lot in Europe with and while on a trip in Spain, the gearbox broke and went in Limp Mode and the car made the 2000km trip with the engine running at well over 4000 rpm and thats on FULLY SYN. MOBIL 1 Turbo Diesel oil.

And that proves what?


When i got back to England, i pulled the head and the camshaft was in perfect condition and the cross-hatch pattern was still visible on the piston bores at 154000 miles. I did replace the turbocharger-JUST IN CASE-even though the car was pulling as it should and did not smoke at all.

Again, that proves what?


Remember that in Callais when i was waiting to board the train, the turbocharger was glowing red hot- i still have a picture on my mobile fone to prove !

A glowing red hot turbo charger is a perfectly normal visual thing to see - nothing extreme going on there (although it may be quite a surprise to some people).


Sold the car to a friend of mine and its now on 280 K miles on ORIGINAL head and engine and still pulling strong !

Again, proving what.


Also if you read the posts on tdiclub, most of the additives in an synthetic oil acctivate after 3000-5000 miles and the engine has LESS wear after 3k than when running on fresh changed oil.

I stand by my statement. Oil additives are NOT programmed to work after some kind of pre-determined delay of 3000-5000 miles or anything similar. It is however true that some of the additives only start to work when the oil reaches a certain temperature, or reaches a certain acidity or alkalinity level - but this is true of any engine oil, whether mineral, semi-synthetic, fully synthetic, or LongLife.

I'd like you to quote the scientific laboratory tests regarding the engine wear, as I have heard many old wives tales regarding non-linear engine wear, but none were scientifically proven.


The synthethics are better flowing than blends,

Not necessarily, a 0W monograde mineral oil will flow better than a 10W60 fully synthetic multigrade!


break down slower than mineral and semy synthetic oils !

That is generally true, although, it is usually the additive package, and not the base oil itself which breaks down. You could have a highly enhanced mineral oil with a complex (and expensive) additives pack, which would last much longer than a fully synthetic oil with a very poor, cheap and inadequate additives pack.


Also my dad its a panel beater and i have been in the cars since know myself, hence the know how and i am a handy carpenter who is fed up with so called mechanics that throw new parts at an engine in the hope it will cure a given problem.

So you have no formal motor vehicle qualifications, and your dad works on car bodies, not car mechanical components. That doesn't really bode well regarding the integrity of any advice you may give to others. You really should make it clear regarding your status of motor vehicle qualifications.

I do accept your point though, regarding mechanics who try to simply change one part after the next to solve a problem. Franchised dealers these days rarely use or employ fully qualified motor vehicle mechanics or technicians, instead, they get a school leaver and send them on their own in-house training courses, which are quite frankly, woefully inadequate.


Where i am camming from a mechanic is a mechanic and there is no such thing as an engineer. Ewerione KNOWS to turn a wrench in Europe !!

Hmmph - that kind of statement can open many cans of worms. Just because you "know how to turn a wrench" - it certainly does not make you a competant vehicle mechanic. Indeed, I can gleefully swing a 14lb sledge hammer - but that means what exactly????


Latelly i read posts on the american forums just because they think from time to time compared with peoples overhere !

Yes, but the Americans have a very different mind-set to Western Europeans, and their ways are not necessarily the "correct" ways!


I do not make my living as an GREASE MONKEY just try to give honest advice to people who know how to read and understand me english.

As I said earlier, you should make it more obvious that you are not a qualified mechanic/technician - perhaps you should amend your signature or Avatar block!

I personally make no living from the motor trade anymore. I am simply a retired qualified motor vehicle technician, with all my qualifications coming from independant sources rather than manufacurer sponsored schemes. My advice is free, and fully impartial, and should be taken without any kind of warranty or endorsement (but I would hope that readers recognise the fact that I do have appropriate qualifications). If anyone would wish to buy me beer/wine/chocolate as a result of my advice on these forum, then it would be gladly received though. :Blush:


P.S.: please escuse my spelling as my first language is not the english and dont have the time to rethink all the frases to put them right !

No problem, you seem to be doing OK. What is your first language then, if you don't mind me asking?

Regards

[d@ve]

For someone a bit dumb on the oil front like me, when I go to Halfords, what Engine oil do i get. I know Halford may be swearing to some, but I have a good one near me with a large selection of engine oils for diesels and petrols.

Would something labeled as fully synthetic diesel oil for modern turbo diesels do the trick?

[Teutonic_Tamer]

For someone a bit dumb on the oil front like me, when I go to Halfords, what Engine oil do i get.

The easiest, most foolproof way, is to look in your proper owners manual which was supplied with the car when new, look in the back pages in the index and look for engine oil specification. (You may sometimes also need to look in your service/maintenace booklet, but both of my VAG cars refer me back to the specific owners manual).

You will find (probably) various different types of specification standards. If your car is quite modern, say 5 or so years old, you may only find the manufacturer standards: something like VW 502.00, or VW 505.01. It may also list ACEA specifications, such as A3 or B3. Finally, if your car is much older, it will probably also list API specifications such as SG/CF, however these API specifications are completely irrelevant, and disregarded in modern VW Audis (obviously only disregard the API spec if there is NO API listing in your manual).

Either photocopy the relevant page, or simply take the book into Halfords, or anywere else, and look at the bottles of oil on the shelf. You normally have to turn the bottles round, as the full specification is listed on the reverse, much like say, your tomato ketchup - on the front of the bottle it will say what it is and who made it, turn it round and you find a full list of ingredients.

If the oil does not have any of the exact specifications listed, then don't buy the oil. You only need to find one of the specifications, not necesarily all of the specs listed in your owners manuals. Finally, try and go for a reputable make of oil, such as Castrol, Veedol, Fuchs, Motul, Total, Elf, Shell (but definately not American originated oils, like Mobil and Valvolene), and yes, Halfords own brand oils do seem to be pretty good. I personally would avoid oils from the smaller manufacurers like Comma, CarPlan (had a very bad personal experience with these), Granville

Have a look at my replies (post #12) to the now 5star rated thread http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=1482 to learn a little more on the various oil standards.


I know Halford may be swearing to some, but I have a good one near me with a large selection of engine oils for diesels and petrols.

Actually, Halfords arn't too bad really - there are an awful lot worse out there (Kwik-Fit comes readily to mind!). You generally find the larger Halfords, usually on industrial estates or trading estates, rather than the city shopping centres, carry much larger, wider ranges of all their stock. As with any "retailer", just be cautious of any over-eager, spotty young upstart, whos' enthusiasm clearly outweighs his knowledge!


Would something labeled as fully synthetic diesel oil for modern turbo diesels do the trick?

Be very careful of that very generic oil description. If you have a PD (Pumpe Düse, or unit injector), these have very stringent and particular demands from their oils. Use the wrong one at your peril - you will cause engine damage if you use a non-PD oil in a PD engine. This is why the correct VW specification is vital.

Rgds

[d@ve]

You will find (probably) various different types of specification standards. If your car is quite modern, say 5 or so years old, you may only find the manufacturer standards: something like VW 502.00, or VW 505.01. It may also list ACEA specifications, such as A3 or B3


Problem I have is that the car was bought from an independant dealer and the car was previously a lease car, so no books with it, its a 52 plate 1.9TDi 130, does that make it a PD engine?

I've got a Haynes manual and it just says use Multigrade Oil 5W/40, or for long life oil use VW 506 00.

The car was serviced by the dealer before I got it (not a VW Franchise) I'll give them a call to see what they say.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Problem I have is that the car was bought from an independant dealer and the car was previously a lease car, so no books with it,

Ahh, that's a pain in the ar$e when the previous owner steals the books. What about service history then?


its a 52 plate 1.9TDi 130, does that make it a PD engine?

I would strongly hazard a guess as being a PD, but I'm not 100% sure - on the boot lid, is the "I" on the TDI badge red? Lift the carpet in your boot and look for the three letter engine code, and also the power output in kW.

Then, take a look at http://www.uk-mkivs.net/forums/ and have a word in there. Come back here to keep us updated.

http://www.doppel-wobber.de/ is also a fascinating German Golf fan site, with english translations available.


I've got a Haynes manual and it just says use Multigrade Oil 5W/40, or for long life oil use VW 506 00.

Ohh no - don't believe the HBoL (Haynes book of lies) - I have repeatedly found errors in Haynes manuals, particularly relating to the proper specifications of air filters, spark plugs, oil filters and oils. I bet it shows you pictures of Champion spark plugs and oil filters, and Duckhams oil being imaginarily poured into the oil filler from an immaculately clean oil bottle.!!!

If it is a PD engine, then the required spec is VW 505.01 for upto one year conventional servicing schedules, or VW 506.01 for LongLife (upto 2 years) variable servicing schedules.

For 505.01 - Castrol EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W40, Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL PD 5W40, Motul Specific 505.01 5W40, Sunoco Ultra 5W40, Elf Excellium DID 5W40, Q8 505.01 5W40.

For 506.01 - Castrol SLX LongLife II 0W30, Quantum LongLife 0W30, Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL LongLife Plus 0W30, Motul Specific 506.01 0W30, Shell Helix Ultra X LongLife 2 0W30, Sunoco Synturo Brilliant LongLife 2 0W30, Veedol Syntron LongLIfe II +506.01 0W30, Elf Excellium CRV 0W30, Q8 Formula Excel EDX 0W30.


The car was serviced by the dealer before I got it (not a VW Franchise) I'll give them a call to see what they say.

Don't rely on them giving you the correct answer. Even my local official VW franchised dealer told me the wrong oil for my Mk5 GTI 2.0T FSI, they even admitted to engine failures from using the wrong oil!!!!!!

Rgds

[bora(ing) nick]

sorry to but in, but Teutonic Tamer has some nice toys;)

[Teutonic_Tamer]

sorry to but in, but Teutonic Tamer has some nice toys;)

fx/on <takes a bow> fx/off

Why thank-you kind sir - the best is yet come though :Blush:

Rgds

[d@ve]

Ahh, that's a pain in the ar$e when the previous owner steals the books. What about service history then?

Got a print out from the VW Franchise that maintained the car whilst leased. No book.


I would strongly hazard a guess as being a PD, but I'm not 100&#37; sure - on the boot lid, is the "I" on the TDI badge red? Lift the carpet in your boot and look for the three letter engine code, and also the power output in kW.

The T is in Silver and the DI is in Red - TDI

Power is 96KW

Eng code is ASZ



Ohh no - don't believe the HBoL (Haynes book of lies)

:D

I was suspicious as the description for the diesel oil is the same as the petrol oil :aargh4:

Thanks for all the info, I'll take a look at those links.

[auiron]

Problem I have is that the car was bought from an independant dealer and the car was previously a lease car, so no books with it, its a 52 plate 1.9TDi 130, does that make it a PD engine?

I've got a Haynes manual and it just says use Multigrade Oil 5W/40, or for long life oil use VW 506 00.

The car was serviced by the dealer before I got it (not a VW Franchise) I'll give them a call to see what they say.


Hi, They should put the type of oil used on the receipt. I believe it's more important to put in the right colour anti-freeze in the radiator than being quite so exacting on the oil.
I expect T_T is more on the ball on such matters though.

[devonutopia]

ASZ engine IS a pd130, as I have one in my car. The best value (and best performing) oil I have found is Millers XFE-PD - 505.01 and VW approved. This stuff is for regular changes every 10,000 or so. For long life stuff, I think it's a different spec - 506.01 or something like that.

I change my oil every 7000 now due to the engine being highly tuned up. Don't want to risk having degraded oil.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Got a print out from the VW Franchise that maintained the car whilst leased. No book.

Is it a basic list, or does it go into full detail, listing a proper itemised invoice for each visit?


The T is in Silver and the DI is in Red - TDI

Power is 96KW

Eng code is ASZ


Righty, I'm 99% sure it's a PD. The first lower powered PDs had silver TD and red I, the later higher powered PDs are like yours. My 1% caution comes from the issue that some scrotes like to change the badging on the bootlid!


:D

I was suspicious as the description for the diesel oil is the same as the petrol oil :aargh4:

Yup, typical Haynes - although they are still a valuble asset, just don't take everything in them as gospel truth!


Thanks for all the info, I'll take a look at those links.

Keep us informed, Rgds

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Hi, They should put the type of oil used on the receipt.

Correct.


I believe it's more important to put in the right colour anti-freeze in the radiator than being quite so exacting on the oil.

Ohh no. Whilst the correct type of antifreeze is still very important, knowing that the G12 and G12+ really should not be mixed with anything else, the consequences of using the wrong antifreeze, against the consequences of using the wrong oil are very different.

If you do mix the wrong antifreeze with G12 or G12+, and drive it for a while, the remedy is relatively straightforward, in terms of draining, flushing and refilling the cooling system. Provided the engine has not overheated, there will be no permanent damage caused.

If you put non-PD oil into a PD engine and drive it, the ramifications could be far more costly, in terms of rapid camshaft failure. Don't get confused between a complete oil change, and an "emergency" top-up; if I recall correctly, you can use upto ½ litre of non-PD oil, if you are caught short somewhere without the proper stuff.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

ASZ engine IS a pd130, as I have one in my car.

Thanks for that DU, yes, the Fabia vRS is a fine little beast even in standard trim ;) .


The best value (and best performing) oil I have found is Millers XFE-PD - 505.01 and VW approved. This stuff is for regular changes every 10,000 or so.

Whilst I don't doubt the value, in terms of cost of the Millers stuff, how do you know it is the best performing? I know that Millers seems to have a fairly good reputation, particularly in the older cars, such as classics and vintage, but they don't really have any track record in either the latest modern stuff, nor modern performance tuned stuff. Millers are not really a big company, even by UK independent oil company standards, and you have to question weather they really have the R&D facilities to match the major players.

One very important thing to remember about the PD oils, (and also the LongLife oils), is that they are soley a Manufacturer (VW/Audi) specified and developed OEM product, which was exclusively developed in sole partnership with their technical lubricants partner, Castrol. They are not like the more generic lubricants, like say Esso Ultron fully synthetic, Fuchs Titan Supersyn SL fully synthetic, or Castrol GTX Magnatec 10W40, which has API, ACEA, and a couple of the lesser OEM specifications, and can be used in any make and model of car which has those more relaxed requirements. For a very interesting illustration of the differing needs of engine oils, take a look at Motul's car range, and they "group" them into categories, such 2000 range for generic minerals, 4000 & 6000 ranges for generic semi-synthetics, 8000 range for generic fully synthetics, 300V for motorsport range, and then a totally separate range called "Specific", for the unique OEM standards.


For long life stuff, I think it's a different spec - 506.01 or something like that.

Yup, quite right, as I previously stated in post #s 3 & 14 :beerchug: .


I change my oil every 7000 now due to the engine being highly tuned up. Don't want to risk having degraded oil.

Wise advice to shorten oil change intervals on tuned engines, although dependent on the state, or level of increased tuning, i'd be inclined to actually half the interval to say 5k miles.

Rgds

[d@ve]

Is it a basic list, or does it go into full detail, listing a proper itemised invoice for each visit?

Just a list with dates, mileage, what was done and cost.


Just athough on oil addition, if my oil is longlife oil (I don't know what it is at the moment), is it ok to top up with standard PD oil as long as I keep to the standard service interval 10K.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Just a list with dates, mileage, what was done and cost.

You can actually ask for the full detail of all the work that has been carried out. Providing you are able to prove you own the car (your name on the V5, along with photo id), they cannot refuse you. You may have to write, enclosing a cheque for GBP10, citing the Data Protection Act, asking for a copy of all computerised, and manual, ie handwritten data on the car. If they don't supply it within 30 days, then you can report them to the Information Commissioner, and they will force them to comply.


Just athough on oil addition, if my oil is longlife oil (I don't know what it is at the moment), is it ok to top up with standard PD oil as long as I keep to the standard service interval 10K.

Two slightly different answers, depending on your future servicing regime. If you wish to stay on LongLife servicing, you are allowed an "emergency" top-up of non LongLife oil, of upto ½ litre. If you have to put in more than ½ litre on non LongLife stuff, the oil quality sensor will recognise the non LongLife oil, and will automatically recalculate the Service Interval Display to non LongLife.

If you have no desire to remain on the LongLife service anyway, you can put in any PD approved oil, although, by its very nature, the LongLife oil is of much higher spec than the standard PD oil. Indeed, one of my recomendations to people who have chipped their TDIs for quite a bit more power than standard, would be to change to the fixed interval (1year/10k miles) but continue to use the LongLife oil.

Rgds

[redmax90]

hey guys ..never go by the badge on the back as too wat horse power it has ..as somebody said they are easily changed..check the timing belt cover sticker or the inner page of the hand book or indeed the boot sticker for ur engine code and match it up in the service book ..the correct oil grade will be there ! ;) PD's are 100. 105(mark 5) 115, 130, 140(2.0) 150 and 170(2.0) hp
:beerchug: