T4 Transporter crank nose trouble

[johnmaneely]

I've got a T4 transporter with a 1.9 ABL motor. The crank pulley came loose and stripped its keyway, this bent some valves. I sorted it(new valves, tappets, cambelt kit and crank sprocket)and she's up and running but my crank pulley still wobbles.

I think the front of the crank is a bit rounded after its fight with the cam belt sprocket, I found this link on how to mod the keyway to make this weak point stronger, but hear there might be a tool to recut the crank nose. Anyone know if this is te case? Is there a tool to recut the nose of the crank in situ, making it flat and run true?

Would save me a lot of grief of an engine removal and crank machining. Any info would be great thanks.

Hello to this forum to as its my first post, :beerchug: and my first VW too.
Cheers
John

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=98264&sid=2ab514824715a84ba96802c252c30606

[Crasher]

I can supply that tool but I can't give you a price until tommorow.

[johnmaneely]

Hi Crasher,
That looks like the answer to all my troubles. My Keyway is a bit butchered but I'm hoping it'll square up a bit when I cut it. You reckon it'll be ok? Its driving the alt and Pas but no AC. I'll take a pic and post it soon.
Cheers
John

[Crasher]

£90 all in. The key way is not important as long as you can align the pulley for timing. All the torque must be taken by the pressure of the contact between the pulley and the crank, the keyway is only there for alignment. You also need VW tool 3099 to ally the 90Nm and 90 degrees torque to the new bolt.

[johnmaneely]

Crasher
I thought the face should take all the torque. I saw the mods people were doing with dowelling and wasn't entirely convinced, guess if its moving even very slightly its could just delaying the inevitable.

I torqued the bolt up previously by wedging the ring gear through the bell housing, its F%$K off(0r 90NM plus 90 degrees technically)tight but thought it'd be ok. Has this practise caused trouble in the past do you know?

As it happens a new bloke started at my work today and he used to build superchargers and engines for VWs, he doesn't have the recut tool himself but says his mate may still have one and is gonna find out if I can borrow it. If its doesn't come off I'll be in touch.

Thanks very much for finding the time to answer my questions.
John

[Retroloose]

Hi Crasher,
i was just reading your old thread, can you help please, as i have an 1.9 TD AAZ engine i just done up, in trouble with the dreaded crank nose problem, its not too bad yet but the crank face needs a re surface. There is a tiny wobble on it. can you direct me where to get or do you still have that tool?

Jordan.

[Retroloose]

Thanks a million Lad, im very grateful, i cant Pm as im new to the site, ill let you know how it goes
Thanks again

Jordan.

[Retroloose]

Hi Crasher, I tried that company for that tool but i think there gone out of business, i think the tool was about 379 euro as a kit as other companies sell it too after googling the name in german.

I eventually found a company ( thttp://www.dieselkontor.de/product_info.php?cPath=58_59&products_id=3680) That sell a cheaper version for 140 euro shipped, i hope it works ok and the quality is good id appreciate your view.

When you performed the re-facing, removing a few thou i assume, was there a need to machine the keyway on the pulley or the crank beval? so that the new pulley would seat flat against the crank end. Was there enough of a gap between the crank beval and key on pulley, if you understand what i mean. Id be very interested in hearing your experience. Also if it works out ok i was going to put two 4mm steel dowels or smaller in the end of the crank also to strengthen it for good.

Thank you
Jordan

[Retroloose]

http://www.dieselkontor.de/product_info.php?cPath=58_59&products_id=3680

[Crasher]

Grinding the face flat is one thing but when I did one of my first, I found my technique had made the face no longer 90 degrees to the crank centre line so the pulley wobbled like mad. I found what I had done was to not ensure the guide pin was true so now what I do is take the plugs out and spin the engine on the starter with a dial gauge on the pin and make sure it is true and I no longer have problems. On the one I ballsed up, when it was finally true the pulley was too close to the plate so I span up a 1-mm thick spacer and cut a key way and it has been perfect since, I still see the car and it must be at least 10 years ago that I did it. The thing is, you on't need pegs or even a key way for drive integrity, these should technically only be responsible for alignment (timing) and the face to face contact pressure be totally responsible for the drive integrity. Experience has shown that is not always the case and now some cars have double sided diamond coated washers between the two which seems to work. Rover had a similar issue years ago on the R series and they put a piece of wet and dry between the tensioner and block to stop it slipping and it worked. For me on the petrol engines I have never experienced a repeat failure when I have done them and I use a new bolt and the proper VAG locking jig. On the AAZ TDI I had one come loose again on our own workshop hack so I changed the alternator pulley to one way clutch and it cured it. On any AAZ I have done (including one I fitted in a Caddy 1) I did this conversion and I have never seen a repeat failure. The secret I think is getting the bolt tight which is not easy even with the tool.

KR Golf 2 16v petrol engine before

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/damagedcrank.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/damagedcrank.jpg.html)

After

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/re-cutcranknose.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/re-cutcranknose.jpg.html)

Pulley locking tool

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/tool3099-1.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/Crasher1964/media/tool3099-1.jpg.html)