Instrument troubles!

[edgy]

Hi, wondered if anyone has ever experienced the same as me and if so hopefully have the solution! The temp guage is intermitantly working and have now just discovered that the fuel guage has stopped working whilst the ignition is on but works when i turn the engine off. Does anyone know how to fix or does anyone know where i can get the panel fixed? Thanks Edgy

[scotty33]

I'm a little confused, are you saying the fuel gauge does not work with the engine running, but it does work with the engine turned off - is this with the ignition on or off?
The senders could be faulty, but probably less likely both of them? I would turn my attenton to the instrument cluster, there is a voltage regulator on the back of the board which can be faulty and usually affects both temp and fuel gauges, but my guess is you have a bad connection or 'dry joints' on the circuit board. See this thread for more info:

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=8426&highlight=fuel+gauge&page=2

[edgy]

OK this is the situation now! Having got the car back from a water pump problem and replacement senders etc...the fuel guage works, at the moment anyway! The temp guage works when it wants to! I have been advised that I should be looking at getting the instruments repaired. I don't know a thing about cars, apart from knowing when somethings not right! Any suggestions?

[scotty33]

I don't know if you read the posts in the link above? This is the information you would need to dismantle the instrument cluster for repair:

Here goes with the instructions:

1. Remove centre cap from steering wheel. If you have a 3 spoke steering wheel, just turn the cap (can't remember which way) it will then just lift off.

2. You will need a 24mm socket with an extension bar to remove the steering wheel, don't lose the washer!

3. Undo the 3 screws that hold on the steering column cowling/cover and remove the top part.

4. With the cowling removed, you will now see the 2 screws that hold in the clocks. Remove these and carefully remove the clocks. You will need to undo 3 connectors from the back of the clocks. Now the clocks can be completely removed.

5. Once you've taken out the clocks, turn them over and you will see lots of gold coloured screws to the edge of the board/clocks. You will need to undo and remove all of these screws.

6. There are 2 silver coloured screws with washers that you will also need to be removed.

7. Then in the middle of the clocks you will see a fairly large beige coloured bit of plastic that is held in by 3 dark grey/black screws, these will also need to be removed. There is also a black coloured bulb holder that you will need to turn as if to take it out, otherwise you won't be able to seperate this from the clocks.

8. Once you have taken the beige plastic bit off, you will be able to get to another gold coloured screw that must also be removed.

9. You should also be able to see 2 tiny silver nuts (5.5mm) that also need to be unscrewed and removed. Once you have undone the nuts, carefully remove the plastic bit (there is also a long bit of plastic that will come out with it), you will then see the last gold coloured screw to undo. (Don't forget to put that screw in before doing up the nuts when you put it back together!)

10. With all of the screws removed, you should now be able to carefully seperate the board from the clocks. You won't need any force, maybe a small precision screw driver to get started (I just used my nails :-)) Then it's ready for you to check for dry joints.

I don't think I've forgotten anything, but give me a shout if you need any more help....and remember.....if I can do it.....ANYONE can do it!!!

Good luck,

Collette.



I know it looks complicated, but the first two steps are for removing the steering wheel, and it may not be necessary to do this. Steps 5-9 are all removing fasteners.

If you get it apart, you are looking for soldered terminals which are 'crusty' looking, these would be the dry joints, they need to be rsoldered. If the circuit board is cracked, it may be possible to use short pieces of fine wire - soldered in to bridge the crack.

If you still don't wish to attempt it, either find somebody willing, or find a spare instrument cluster?

before you go to that trouble, which engine have you got and which sender(s) did they change?

[edgy]

Hi..it's a 1.8 and they replaced the two senders at the back of the engine. Appreciate your thoughts.

[scotty33]

I don't know the 1.8 engine at all. I was thinking maybe they changed the wrong sender, but I have no idea which is the right one. I guess if they changed 2 senders, they probably have covered that possibility.
I would look into getting the circuit board checked out. good luck!

[edgy]

Thanks for your help Scotty, I will have a go at that!!!

[Sandokan]

I had *exactly* the same issue with my cabrio not so long ago. Temperature guage would work sometimes (and work perfectly), other times it would not work at all, other times it would start working after driving for a while, then stopping and just turning on the ignitition... Fuel guage occasionally did the same thing.

Garage changed the senders several times. Absolutely no effect, except costing me money!

Turned out to be a mix of dry joints and a hairline crack on the circuit board. Had it changed and the issue has not returned. Seems to be a not totally common fault with the Audi 80 dash instrument panel.

[edgy]

Thanks Kevin, think I will try and find a replacement panel as I think if I start to mess with it will need replacing anyway!! Edgy

[scotty33]

Have a look at this thread, like you he did not fancy stripping the cluster down:

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?&p=148633#post148633

[edgy]

Thanks chap, sounds like I might be able to manage that without causing more damage, will let you knowif it does the trick, thanks.