Which Oil- Does it matter!?!

[mikey_100]

Hi- been reading loads of threads on various forums about using the 'correct oil ' in an engine

I'm not too up on these mechanical things- so apologies if this is a daft question- but does it really matter?

I have a 1995 LT35 2.4D(non turbo)- (so no fancy gubbins on it- just a good solid engine) with 70K on-i change the oil and filter every 6 months-and only use the thing at weekends- so it does max 3k miles per year-i just go to the local spares shop and buy the most reasonably priced(aka cheapest) oil that says 'for diesel engines' on it- the oil that comes out is almost as clean as when it went in!- so the thinking is that even the crappiest oil in the world will last a couple of thousand miles.

Now i'm reading about crankshaft damage and oil pump damage and getting worried!- any help would be appreciated!

Mike

[TezZbag]

You should use a decent quality 15w40 diesel oil, might be ok servicing it once a year then.

[DutchAussie]

Hi- been reading loads of threads on various forums about using the 'correct oil ' in an engine

I'm not too up on these mechanical things- so apologies if this is a daft question- but does it really matter?

I have a 1995 LT35 2.4D(non turbo)- (so no fancy gubbins on it- just a good solid engine) with 70K on-i change the oil and filter every 6 months-and only use the thing at weekends- so it does max 3k miles per year-i just go to the local spares shop and buy the most reasonably priced(aka cheapest) oil that says 'for diesel engines' on it- the oil that comes out is almost as clean as when it went in!- so the thinking is that even the crappiest oil in the world will last a couple of thousand miles.

Now i'm reading about crankshaft damage and oil pump damage and getting worried!- any help would be appreciated!

Mike

Mike,

modern engines have close tolerances and heavy loads on bearing surfaces.
Use the oil recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Driving 3000 miles/year, presumably short trips, is SEVERE SERVICE!

Do you do your own oil changes? I have never seen sump oil come out like new.

Do not buy cheap oils unless you want to destroy your engine.

[ferretflasher]

Hi there, Does it matter if you DO NOT use the specific 5w/30 PD oil in a PD engine?? I know that these PD oils cost a fortune but could you use a full synthetic Diesel specific oil with a rating 10w/30 and expect the engine to be OK/
?? I ask regarding a 22k mile 2006 Transporter 130PS PD engine, its one I looked at buying but the oil level was on minimum and it (the engine) was making a traditional 'diesel clatter' at idle. I asked the seller who just shrugged his shoulders and said its always sounded that way, he just put normal engine oil in it!

I walked away!!
FF2

[DutchAussie]

Hi there, Does it matter if you DO NOT use the specific 5w/30 PD oil in a PD engine?? I know that these PD oils cost a fortune but could you use a full synthetic Diesel specific oil with a rating 10w/30 and expect the engine to be OK/
?? I ask regarding a 22k mile 2006 Transporter 130PS PD engine, its one I looked at buying but the oil level was on minimum and it (the engine) was making a traditional 'diesel clatter' at idle. I asked the seller who just shrugged his shoulders and said its always sounded that way, he just put normal engine oil in it!

I walked away!!
FF2

Good decision,

the guy did not care for his engine. The PD injectors put a heavy load on the lobes of the overhead camshaft. The reason for the expensive synthetic oil is to reduce wear.
Unless you have the service history of a PD engine in which they have used the correct oil I would not touch it.

I have a section on lubricating oil on my Forum and Website.

[DutchAussie]

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Sorry about my ignorance but I have a lot of trouble reading the above.

[ferretflasher]

Have been reading up on the subject of PD rated oils and found this. I have used Millers oils for 20 odd years and never have ANY concerns. However I am intending to buy a T5 van with 130PS engine that features PD pump. Reading between the lines, why does this oil not appears suitable with particulate filters which I believe the T5's are fitted?
There are several stories where owners have reported that the ECU going into fault because their particulate filter has failed or become in operable and they have to re-generate the particulate filter by giving it a good thrashing in order to get it warmed up and burning off those large particulates.
Anyone care to explain??

http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_AUTO_RETAIL.htm

Go to engine oils and then to XFE-PD on the next page, it should take you to the proper page.

ps. where have all the Japanese scrips come from??

Not sure if short journeys (that prevent the catalyst getting hot enough) or if Sulfur contamination is the cause of DPF failures, anyone care to explian please??

[ferretflasher]

Found this as well....looks like it pays to give it a good pasting along the M way whenever possible, gets things warmed up and gives the DPF chance to burn off the soot. Still dont know why Millers XFE-PD is NOT recommended....maybe has a bit of Sulfur in its mix??

http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/fuels-and-environment/diesel-particulate-filters.html

Happy reading

[Freshup]

Have a 2.4d with 680000km. Used BP Visco 5000 synthetic from new for 350000k. Never used oil between changes. Told by BP this oil was wrong should use C6 Global (diesel oil) Started burning 1 litre every 800k. Stripped engine, deglazed bore. Now use Castrol SLX Professional (BP no longer available in NZ) Still using no oil between changes. Most important lesson Dont change oil types. Use oil with VW 505 rating.

[ferretflasher]

Hi there, this is the point of my question though.....why do Millers say do NOT use XFE-PD oil when a Particulate filter is fitted to a PD engine......why ???
FF