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Hi , was hoping someone here could help answer a question I have regarding a VW Golf 1992 which usually drives well but just recently occasionally the engine has been cutting out and then won't restart for another 15-30 minutes. I have called the RAC but they can't find the fault as the engine was able to start up by the time they had arrived. I have changed the distributor cap, leads, plugs and coil but still the problem remains. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Sol,
this may sound like a strange answer. I had a Mark one that cut out on me and would not start.
I took off the petrol cap and waited @ 30 seconds relaced the cap and the car started.
I have been told it had an air lock which can happen on hot days or if the rubber gasket in the petrol cap is too thick causing a vacuum.
MrG :biglaugh:
lvbug
28-03-2008, 11:42 PM
Hi Sol , what engine is in your golf? Carb or Injection? and when does it cut out , hot or cold? after a long/short drive? Mr G has a very good tip there if it is fuel related but would need to have more symptoms
1.9mk1golf
29-03-2008, 06:00 PM
if your car is carb you could be getting carb icing ,this is where the fuel ices up in the carb,some more info would be helpful
Crasher
29-03-2008, 06:27 PM
Does sound like carb icing.
stav1e
16-04-2008, 03:45 PM
Hi , was hoping someone here could help answer a question I have regarding a VW Golf 1992 which usually drives well but just recently occasionally the engine has been cutting out and then won't restart for another 15-30 minutes. I have called the RAC but they can't find the fault as the engine was able to start up by the time they had arrived. I have changed the distributor cap, leads, plugs and coil but still the problem remains. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Had a car once that did the same. Turned out to be the coil!
kcorfognik
21-04-2008, 02:36 PM
Hmm - if it was carb icing there would be a deterioration over a few minutes until the engine wouldn't run. By letting the engine stand the accumulated heat de-ices. Probably worth checking the cold running gear and the corrugated pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the air filter box.
I think it sounds a bit more like an electrical problem centred around the hall sensor in the distributor. There are 3 wires running from it that can become fragile with age. When they fail the car won't start. This CAN be an intermittent fault (bitter experience) - as the engine and hence distributor warms up expansion occurs and the continuity of the electrics is broken. When it cools down the circuit is remade.
I bought a distributor from a scrapyard for a tenner - set my engine to tdc - lined the rotor arm up as best as I could with plug lead 1 on the distributor cap - BINGO - problem fixed. Bit of time spent improving the accuracy of my <ahem> guesstimate timing and all for a tenner.
Other possibility id the tci-h switch in the bulkhead plenum in front of the driver - that's an easy swap over, just 2 screws and a connector. Cheap at scrappers prices.
Hope this helps,
R
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