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Paz
01-02-2008, 08:13 PM
Hi,

New to the site so please be gentle.

I took my R reg A4 Avant 2.8 QUATTRO to a garage to investigate front suspension "squeak" they inform me its a worn n/s/f upper front suspension arm. Can anybody tell me how hard this is to replace as the garage have quoted over £200 quid and they say varoius bolts sieze in etc etc and you have to drop the hole suspension down to remove bolts etc etc..
Thanx

incadave
01-02-2008, 08:24 PM
Hi. I had a squeak/creak on my A4 in the front and it lasted for about a month and that was 18months ago and has not been back since and there is no play in any of the arms so it might be worth putting up with it for a while to see what develops.

Paz
01-02-2008, 08:32 PM
Hi, The squeak has been there for about a year on and off but it seems worse in warm weather/ on longer journeys and its more constant now.

Its starting to annoy me now.

rhencullen1989
04-02-2008, 08:20 PM
Have a look at the bolts that hold the upper arms to the metal bracket, it will be obvious if the bolts will foul the bodywork or not, from memory i think one can be removed but the other will definately require the assembly to be lowered (3 bolts on inner wing) The bolt that clamps the 2 top arms can be a pain to remove, plenty of penetrating fluid, some heat (watch the rubber on joints) and a good tap with a hammer on the casting around the bolt area. I used a breaker bar and tried to wiggle bolt back and forth, eventually it will start to move. The strut bottom bolt fouls the rear bottom arm and i think you will need to remove this bolt to allow the strut to lower enough, you could try spring compressors. It sounds a bit of a mare, but i did all 10 arms (inc arb) in a day, biggest headache was front lower arm ball joint.

Paz
04-02-2008, 08:51 PM
Thankyou for the detailed information,

The way you have explained it, I think I will give it ago, the worst bit sounds like the seized bolt, (Just what the garage said).

Kleinxv
04-02-2008, 11:07 PM
Do not know if quatro is different 2 the front wheel drive but am pretty sure front upper arm needs the strut droped out to remove bolt the draw bolt which holds the 2 ball joints in place on the main strut is a pain buy 2 new bolts they cost about a fiver the nuts are a soft alloy and once u start battering them they distort and damage the threads.Look very close at bushing it normally tears and pokes out eiher side of the arm u can spray some light lube to confirm u are on the proper squeak. you wiil need a ball joint splitter to break bottom joints and do not forget to tighten bushes up again at the correct angle so as not to stress them :approve:

rhencullen1989
05-02-2008, 12:01 AM
Yes i agree, buy new bolts and nuts that clamp the top arms to the hub carrier casting, and use some copper grease on them to make it easier next time! There is a measurement in the haynes manual to position the top arms, but is all i did was replace one at a time and use the one that is left on for reference. I managed to get my strut out without removing the lower front arm, using a trolley jack handle as a PERSUADER, but its a tight fit and it may be easier to remove both bottom arm tapered joints, (i struggled like hell on the front arm as i could not get a big enough ball joint splitter, its bigger than the rear one, does anyone know where to get a scissor type splitter from? I know klann tools do one but its about £120, a lot of money to use once every 3 years!!

Kleinxv
05-02-2008, 09:56 AM
I bought a draper ball joint separator stock No 63770 this has an adjustable jaw opening and I have used it to remove all the front lower taper joints on my car and it cost above £12. You need to turn steering from lock to lock to gain access to joints