cam belt

[rooster]

At the last service, 60,000, my skoda main dealer told me the cam belt should be changed at 100,000 miles, when I asked.
Now, at 70,000 a former skoda dealer (now daihatsu, like several smaller ex skoda dealers) tells me it should be changed every 5 years irrespective of mileage. he also told me to have the water pump changed at the same time. Including the service he estimates he will charge about £350 for all the work.
Is he right about the work to be done and does the charge sound reasonable?

Oh and it is an Octavia 1.6 petrol

[charlie1302]

check out this site-it may help you -they are an audi dealer but service all vag cars including my polo-drop them a email and get a price.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Stafford-Au...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

cheers

phil

polo gti owner

[Pauloz]

At the last service, 60,000, my skoda main dealer told me the cam belt should be changed at 100,000 miles, when I asked.
Now, at 70,000 a former skoda dealer (now daihatsu, like several smaller ex skoda dealers) tells me it should be changed every 5 years irrespective of mileage. he also told me to have the water pump changed at the same time. Including the service he estimates he will charge about £350 for all the work.
Is he right about the work to be done and does the charge sound reasonable?

Oh and it is an Octavia 1.6 petrol
Go with what the current dealer tells you. Sometimes the guidelines change, and have done on some VAG recently, but 5 years irrespective isnt right for sure. Water pump is a good idea yes - and make sure he changes all the rollers/tensioners, not just the belt. 95% of belt failures are right after being fitted.....

[greg123]

I work on 4 years or 80k, whichever is sooner. SOME people advise just checking, or pushing it further - HOWEVER, if it fails you got a wrecked engine. I have yet to meet anyone - mfr or belt engineer, who says it won't last 4 years/80k, so we stick with that.

As Pauloz said, the water pump should be done if it's original as the naff vw plastic impella one causes issues and it's only a few more £'s when the cambelt is already off, but a big old job on it's own. You are advised as Pauloz said to have a cambelt KIT which includes all the necessary moving bits and are common now, not a special order deal.

£350 isn't a bad price if that's with a major service, I usually charge £245 for a major + cambelt, if the customer is willing to have a kit fitted the extra cost of the kit (usually about £30 more) is on top, water pump as well runs maybe another £50 on top.

Greg.

[Beato19]

Hi, I was informed by a local garage that the first change of the cam belt on my Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi should be at 40,000 miles and then every 60,000 miles or 4 years whatever comes first. And yes, he wasn't really prepared to fit a cam belt only insisting on the full cam kit fit in order to give some sort of a guarantee. I managed to get a full cam kit for £93.00p. Regards. Neil.

[greg123]

Don't forget the water pump if it hasn't been done. 60k I won't argue with! At 40 or 60k if the tensioners were replaced last time they may be okay, I sometimes open up the seals and pack new grease in for my own vehicles - only if the bearings are all good though, any rough/loose etc and they definately need to be replaced. For customers cars I fit new only. Greg.

[Pauloz]

Don't forget the water pump if it hasn't been done. 60k I won't argue with! At 40 or 60k if the tensioners were replaced last time they may be okay, I sometimes open up the seals and pack new grease in for my own vehicles - only if the bearings are all good though, any rough/loose etc and they definately need to be replaced. For customers cars I fit new only. Greg.
Ohh really Greg? Bit risky if you ask me bud. Its impossible to test a bearing properly without taking it apart completely... and the seals are very delicate in modern rollers being 'non contact' so with very specific tolerances..... not to be messed with imo ;)

[greg123]

I have a good system tried and tested over 15 years.

Essentially the bearings go when the grease runs dry. If the grease is still good, the bearings are unpitted and there is no free play I'm confident that re-packed with grease it's good to go. Never, ever, failed me. In fact this is the standard way of dealing with old non-sealed bearings. The only difference is that the old ones didn't have properly sealing covers, it's pretty easy to pop off the covers when you know how. Just work clean, I fully clean and de-grease before I pop the cover off.

Anyhow, you don't have to do it, I don't normally mention it. Just fit new ones.

Greg.


Ohh really Greg? Bit risky if you ask me bud. Its impossible to test a bearing properly without taking it apart completely... and the seals are very delicate in modern rollers being 'non contact' so with very specific tolerances..... not to be messed with imo ;)

[Beato19]

Hi folks. Can anyone please advise me where the sensor is on a 2006 Skoda Classic 1.9 TDI. I can see some sort of a switch with an electrical connection on it on the passenger side of the engine about half way back? If this is the offending thing I'm having a heck of a job trying to get the connection off.
Is there any kind of clip holding the sensor in? I'm assuming that even with pressure taken off the system (by releasing the rad/bottle cap) that I will lose coolant. Can something like a thin tray be used to catch the coolant and then return back into the system after the new sensor has been fitted? Or would I be better off taking the car to a local Skoda dealer to get the job done? Cheers all. Neil.

[greg123]

Off top of my head it's at the rear of the cylinder head right hand side, held on by a plastic U clip which breaks easy - get a couple spare they are only 50p each. Release pressure on cap then put cap back on, change the sensor quickly making sure the old o ring comes out and you put the fresh one in. You won't lose much coolant.

Greg.


Hi folks. Can anyone please advise me where the sensor is on a 2006 Skoda Classic 1.9 TDI. I can see some sort of a switch with an electrical connection on it on the passenger side of the engine about half way back? If this is the offending thing I'm having a heck of a job trying to get the connection off.
Is there any kind of clip holding the sensor in? I'm assuming that even with pressure taken off the system (by releasing the rad/bottle cap) that I will lose coolant. Can something like a thin tray be used to catch the coolant and then return back into the system after the new sensor has been fitted? Or would I be better off taking the car to a local Skoda dealer to get the job done? Cheers all. Neil.

[Beato19]

Cheers Greg, thank you very much for your excellent reply regarding my coolant sensor. I was told that the car shouldn't require an O ring when the new sensor is fitted (clever people) but it makes dense to fit one I suppose. I'm not very happy about a plastic clip but i suppose its a sign of the times and something else to break. Once again. Thank you.

[greg123]

You are welcome ;-)

Agree about the plastic clips but if you get a visual/mirror so you know how it fits and make sure the sensor is in fully firm they behave once in. Agree about the o-ring but for 20p or whatever worth it even in case you drop one!

Good luck,
Greg.

[skippy41]

I have a good system tried and tested over 15 years.

Essentially the bearings go when the grease runs dry. If the grease is still good, the bearings are unpitted and there is no free play I'm confident that re-packed with grease it's good to go. Never, ever, failed me. In fact this is the standard way of dealing with old non-sealed bearings. The only difference is that the old ones didn't have properly sealing covers, it's pretty easy to pop off the covers when you know how. Just work clean, I fully clean and de-grease before I pop the cover off.

Anyhow, you don't have to do it, I don't normally mention it. Just fit new ones.

Greg.

Could the bearings make a clattering sound when the engine is idling?
or the tension er, its a sound like something is trying to engage but cannot, coming from the belt end of the engine.
MK2 1.9tdi.105 BHP

I understand that you can now get a proper waterpump instead of the plastic ones, where can you get them and how much

[Pauloz]

Could the bearings make a clattering sound when the engine is idling?
or the tension er, its a sound like something is trying to engage but cannot, coming from the belt end of the engine.
MK2 1.9tdi.105 BHP

I understand that you can now get a proper waterpump instead of the plastic ones, where can you get them and how much

sounds like the aux belt tensioner has gone. BUT that is often not the route problem; theres a one way clutch pulley on the alternator (over running alternator pulley, OAP) which could have siezed up inside meaning its free to rotate in both directions. This causes increased belt flap...... and the tensioner to give up permaturely!
Many garages dont know about OAP's, or that you can change them without changing the whole alternator because you need a spline tool to remove them.....

[skippy41]

I think I will have to get things checked out and a full belt change ASAP cannot afford an engine rebuild
Its done 70K now and out of warranty
Thanks for the info

[greg123]

Motor factors/euro parts, about £25 with vat.

Clattering likely the A/C compressor bearing, turn the a/c on and see if it goes. Inspection with belts off will prove the rogue bearing.

Greg.


Could the bearings make a clattering sound when the engine is idling?
or the tension er, its a sound like something is trying to engage but cannot, coming from the belt end of the engine.
MK2 1.9tdi.105 BHP

I understand that you can now get a proper waterpump instead of the plastic ones, where can you get them and how much

[Pauloz]

Motor factors/euro parts, about £25 with vat.

Clattering likely the A/C compressor bearing, turn the a/c on and see if it goes. Inspection with belts off will prove the rogue bearing.

Greg.
If the clattering stops when turning A/C on, that doesnt nessesarily mean its the A/C bud, as that will change the torque in the system and could quieten a tensioner on the edge of giving up completely ;)

[skippy41]

Thanks for all the info guys will try the air con when i go out, hardly use it though just wind the window down a bit and turn on the demist blower I do run it for about 15 mins on long runs though just to keep it working

[Pauloz]

Thanks for all the info guys will try the air con when i go out, hardly use it though just wind the window down a bit and turn on the demist blower I do run it for about 15 mins on long runs though just to keep it working
Whys that Skippy? Turning the A/C on is more fuel effiecient that opening a window because the the increased drag......

[skippy41]

Just an update, I tried the air con to no avail, then I spotted the boss of the gararge I have been using for my Kia, he had a quick look at it and said it could be the clutch release bearing as the sound is defo coming from the gearbox, thats why when I depress the clutch pedal the clatter goes he said it could also be a lose spring on the clutch plate as the clatter is not there all the time, I will get it up to him to take the box off to investigate, he also told me that if its flywheel related he has a brand new one at his gararge I can have for £50, removed from a right off

[Pauloz]

Make sure you see the parts bud ;) There are no springs in the clutch plate on this...... theyre in the flywheel instead. It could be the flywheel clattering though.

[skippy41]

would it do any damage to the gearbox if not I can live with it, untill it goes

[Pauloz]

Its certainly possible - but before that it will likely just destroy the clutch, be it new or not..... which wont be covered under warranty as its not the clutches fault.
A clutch wont last 5 minutes on a really buggered DMF.

Best to get it all done in one hit, as redoing the clutch, or changing the clutch/flywheel at a later date will incur another 7 hours or so labour as 99% of the work is just to get to taking the gearbox off.

[skippy41]

Got quote of £350 all in for a full replacement of flywheel and associated parts, This guy is a race engineer and race driver, he even does work for John Cleland and most of the local rally teams

[greg123]

It's a good theory but in practice I have dealt with a lot of them and it tends to go silent when you engage it.

If in doubt whip the belt off though.


If the clattering stops when turning A/C on, that doesnt nessesarily mean its the A/C bud, as that will change the torque in the system and could quieten a tensioner on the edge of giving up completely ;)

[greg123]

It sounds good, I wouldn't want to do it much less. Also that new flywheel will likely be needed - get rid of the DMF!


Got quote of £350 all in for a full replacement of flywheel and associated parts, This guy is a race engineer and race driver, he even does work for John Cleland and most of the local rally teams

[skippy41]

It sounds good, I wouldn't want to do it much less. Also that new flywheel will likely be needed - get rid of the DMF!

I take it there is an alternative available for the 105 bhp 1.9 tdi pd IE a normal clutch set up

[greg123]

You can normally always get a std solid aftermarket flywheel for around £100 on top of the clutch kit. That won't need replacing next time either. Also common when increasing performance, as a DMF is only any good in it's rated power range and when new. And, they make almost no noticable difference. Back to back on a 110 octavia I couldn't tell, solid to DMF.

Greg.


I take it there is an alternative available for the 105 bhp 1.9 tdi pd IE a normal clutch set up

[skippy41]

You can normally always get a std solid aftermarket flywheel for around £100 on top of the clutch kit. That won't need replacing next time either. Also common when increasing performance, as a DMF is only any good in it's rated power range and when new. And, they make almost no noticable difference. Back to back on a 110 octavia I couldn't tell, solid to DMF.

Greg.

Thanks for that Greg any idea where I could get one from for mine as I have read that finding one for the 105 is like trying to find hens teeth
So i would need a solid flywheel, a clutch kit and what else??

[greg123]

Who have you contacted?

Contact Euro Car Parts and German Swedish French as well as your local motor factors.

If no luck pm me with full car details and reg.

Greg.


Thanks for that Greg any idea where I could get one from for mine as I have read that finding one for the 105 is like trying to find hens teeth
So i would need a solid flywheel, a clutch kit and what else??