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pd130
14-12-2007, 08:45 PM
Hi i drive a 52 plate golf tdi pd 130, I also have a pugeot 206 1.6 on a Tplate, I have always wanted a mk1 golf GTI I have seen quite a few for sale and they vairy in price quite a bit. So the only option I have is to get rid of the pug and use the money to get a mk1golf, I wont be sorry to get rid of the pugeot as its a bit rubbish to put it bluntly, Has anyone owned/drove a mk1 golf and what is a reasonable price to pay for a car that is over 20 years old in ok condition? bearing in mind I would struggle to get 1750quid for the pug!.

Thank you for you time in reading my post. Tony

Nicks
14-12-2007, 09:26 PM
well for a decent one you will probably pay 3 grand and up.... depends how much work has gone into it or if it has been kept in a garage all its life.. have a look in the back vw driver or performance etc... good luck!

onzarob
14-12-2007, 11:40 PM
well for a decent one you will probably pay 3 grand and up.... depends how much work has gone into it or if it has been kept in a garage all its life.. have a look in the back vw driver or performance etc... good luck!

you can get good one for 2K i think the campaign edition is over priced, the biggest issue is rust, rear arches, windscreen surround, front and rear valance. engine is bomb proof. problems with electrics are common and coldstart valve. be wary of low mileage examples with no history as the clocks are easily wound back.

A 160K car with complete history is a better car than a 100K no history car. check the car on start up for a puff off smoke means the valve guides are on the way out. need doing around the 100k mark.

The main thing to remember is that there are allot of MK1 golfs still on th road and the difference between a Dog and a minter in price can be a few hundred pounds, so look at loads and drive them :D

My car before the Audi was a MK1 Golf Cab;)

Crasher
14-12-2007, 11:54 PM
Rust, rust, rust, rust and rust. When you have cut out all the rust and replaced it with new metal, then ground off the rust, treat the rust and paint the damage caused by the rust. When you have done all this, watch the rust come back through the rust on top of the rust. I have owned my (rusty) Golf 1 GTI for eighteen years and currently I am cutting out the rust from the nearside rear after repairing all the rust I can find on the front and then welding up the offside rear axle mount and inner sill and now finishing the nearside rear (including replacing both rusty rear wheel arches with new very poorly fitting replacement parts now topped off with quite a lot of lead) so when I have done that I can watch the rust bubble elsewhere!

If rust doesn’t bother you, nightmarish problems getting the parts you need will!

onzarob
14-12-2007, 11:59 PM
Rust, rust, rust, rust and rust. When you have cut out all the rust and replaced it with new metal, then ground off the rust, treat the rust and paint the damage caused by the rust. When you have done all this, watch the rust come back through the rust on top of the rust. I have owned my (rusty) Golf 1 GTI for eighteen years and currently I am cutting out the rust from the nearside rear after repairing all the rust I can find on the front and then welding up the offside rear axle mount and inner sill and now finishing the nearside rear (including replacing both rusty rear wheel arches with new very poorly fitting replacement parts now topped off with quite a lot of lead) so when I have done that I can watch the rust bubble elsewhere!

If rust doesn’t bother you, nightmarish problems getting the parts you need will!

Oh so true, But you still want to repair it;):D

Its a great car after all:beerchug:

Crasher
15-12-2007, 12:59 AM
I know, only the outer nearside rear sill section to go and them some paint on the lower 3/4 panels, then blast, paint and reassemble the rear axle, Golf 4 calipers, my special handbrake cables, fit the Weitec rear coilovers, Eibach rear bar then onto the new mapped ignition, then rebuild the interior and then, after God knows what else, maybe I can drive it in the Summer so I can bring my 72 1302 LS automatic bug into the workshop and start stripping that down ready for its appointment at Surface Processing for a through acid dip and full rebuild. Then when that’s done, I will have to start on one of the Golf 2's!!!!!!

onzarob
15-12-2007, 01:04 AM
I know, only the outer nearside rear sill section to go and them some paint on the lower 3/4 panels, then blast, paint and reassemble the rear axle, Golf 4 calipers, my special handbrake cables, fit the Weitec rear coilovers, Eibach rear bar then onto the new mapped ignition, then rebuild the interior and then, after God knows what else, maybe I can drive it in the Summer so I can bring my 72 1302 LS automatic bug into the workshop and start stripping that down ready for its appointment at Surface Processing for a through acid dip and full rebuild. Then when that’s done, I will have to start on one of the Golf 2's!!!!!!

I bet you eat Iron oxide for breakfast:beerchug:

Sounds like a real beast your building, I suspect if your doing a remap on a mk1 it isnt no mk1 engine;)

Crasher
15-12-2007, 01:16 AM
It is the original (well an original) Golf 1 DX bottom end with (what was 15 years ago) a brand new 3A crank and 83-mm Nüral pistons so a 2008cc bottom end, now 15 years old. It has a Eurospec stage 4 (42mm inlet and 36-mm exhaust valves) head with a mildish Kent GS2 cam and flowed original manifolds, a Neuspeed throttle body and a standard K-Jet injection system. Onto the K-Jet I added the ubiquitous Audi control pressure regulator and a Golf 2 VW retro fit catalyst system frequency valve to the control pressure circuit and instead of using this to correct the fuelling rich and lean I used it to enrich it only, but to double the original capability. The ignition is using a PB Digifant dizzy with no vac or mechanical advance so all the timing is 3D on the map. The system controlling this is currently a Racelogic VSAM but this is going in favour of a Perfect Power SMT6D which will allow me to closed lop lambda control the fuelling and the fuelling is trimmed on a 3D map as well. Last time it was on the rollers it gave a reasonably respectable 162BHP.

onzarob
15-12-2007, 10:29 AM
It is the original (well an original) Golf 1 DX bottom end with (what was 15 years ago) a brand new 3A crank and 83-mm Nüral pistons so a 2008cc bottom end, now 15 years old. It has a Eurospec stage 4 (42mm inlet and 36-mm exhaust valves) head with a mildish Kent GS2 cam and flowed original manifolds, a Neuspeed throttle body and a standard K-Jet injection system. Onto the K-Jet I added the ubiquitous Audi control pressure regulator and a Golf 2 VW retro fit catalyst system frequency valve to the control pressure circuit and instead of using this to correct the fuelling rich and lean I used it to enrich it only, but to double the original capability. The ignition is using a PB Digifant dizzy with no vac or mechanical advance so all the timing is 3D on the map. The system controlling this is currently a Racelogic VSAM but this is going in favour of a Perfect Power SMT6D which will allow me to closed lop lambda control the fuelling and the fuelling is trimmed on a 3D map as well. Last time it was on the rollers it gave a reasonably respectable 162BHP.

wow, bit more than just a roar pipe and a k&n filter :biglaugh:

Col
15-12-2007, 11:58 AM
It is the original (well an original) Golf 1 DX bottom end with (what was 15 years ago) a brand new 3A crank and 83-mm Nüral pistons so a 2008cc bottom end, now 15 years old. It has a Eurospec stage 4 (42mm inlet and 36-mm exhaust valves) head with a mildish Kent GS2 cam and flowed original manifolds, a Neuspeed throttle body and a standard K-Jet injection system. Onto the K-Jet I added the ubiquitous Audi control pressure regulator and a Golf 2 VW retro fit catalyst system frequency valve to the control pressure circuit and instead of using this to correct the fuelling rich and lean I used it to enrich it only, but to double the original capability. The ignition is using a PB Digifant dizzy with no vac or mechanical advance so all the timing is 3D on the map. The system controlling this is currently a Racelogic VSAM but this is going in favour of a Perfect Power SMT6D which will allow me to closed lop lambda control the fuelling and the fuelling is trimmed on a 3D map as well. Last time it was on the rollers it gave a reasonably respectable 162BHP.

I'd love to hear more about this beasty !

I have very fond memories of my MK1 Golf which I had between 1989 and 1991, the car was a humble 1983 1.3CL which I modded to look like GTI.

Happy days.

It did have a habit of the clutch cable ripping through the bulkhead and the electrics were always a bit dodgy

Paul Jay
15-12-2007, 01:12 PM
AAAAHHHHH!

They don't make them like they used to do they?!

So rust isn't a problem on the Mk1 then Crasher?

Still, a good Mk1 GTi always turns heads, just a great car. Apart from rust.:D

Crasher
15-12-2007, 02:14 PM
wow, bit more than just a roar pipe and a k&n filter :biglaugh:

No silly induction pipe but I forgot, it has got a K&N.

Polly Adore
28-03-2008, 03:03 PM
I too am looking ot purchase a MK1 convertaible for the summer, I thought i had better start looking now.
But you are so right, there are quite a few out there that really range in price and condition ! So thank you for the advise on the service history and RUST!

One question if I may please - most don't have power steering, is this easy to get a garage to fit, or is it just not worth it ?
:notworthy:friday::newbie:

Crasher
28-03-2008, 05:09 PM
Hello Polly. No Golf 1 Cabrio ever had power starring in right hand drive from the factory, only in left hand drive. There are a few cars out there that have been converted to power steering using kits from Steering Developments or TSR of Bridgewater, Somerset. The former kit is extremely rare and no longer available as far as I know, the TSR kit is still available but some of the installations I have seen have not been good. I have fitted a couple of the kits myself and ended up doing quite a lot of re-engineering until I was happy with it.

Owain-mk1+mk5
12-05-2008, 08:31 PM
Keep a look at item no - 130221864669 on e-bay looks good to me. Have owned my mk1 Campaign for 10 years and rust has never been an issue with mine, litte bit where the tailgate hatch is. Its been greased up good an proper by the previous owner. Make sure its been waxoyled from an early age, and the front wing liner's are a must or the inner wings will be nackerd. Also the dreaded filler neck ! Check for rust ! ! !