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View Full Version : t4 2.4 bad oil leak around oil pump



dangerrous
10-12-2007, 11:27 PM
I have posted before and had replies with great success, I'm hoping to have the same result.
I completed a major service on the engine and tried to sort out an oil leak from around the oil pump and sump.

Two new oil seals later and still no luck, there is a considerable amount of oil still coming out of the oil seal 1ltr/ 300miles

I'm going to replace the clutch this week and bottom end gaskets

Question: Are these oil pumps prone to cracking/leaking, because I feel I'm fighting a losing battle with this one. I might just fit a new one.
Any ideas would be greatfully received.
I will post the remedy when I find it!
regrds
Darren

kenney
11-12-2007, 11:18 AM
Hi The seals are usualy the cause of oil leakage on these engines,i may add they are very easy damaged when replacing,there is a spesial guide (tool) for the job.Leaking so much oil it should be easy to see where the oil is coming from, although with everything in place it is sometimes hard to pinpoint exactly where.What i would suggest is dismantle what it takes to remove the plastic covering around the pump, and reassemble everything.Let the engine run on fast idle to make sure it is realy the seal that is leaking.One other thing check the engine breather hose.

dangerrous
11-12-2007, 03:43 PM
There are no plastic covers in this area, they are all metal plates which house the water pump and cam belt tensioner, but you can see the oil seal surround with a torch
Just picked up the gasket set, and had a price for a new oil pump, £150+vat. Won't be fitting that on a whim.
The leak is definitely from the oil seal, Upon earlier inspection I noticed an internal oil seal, only accessable when the pump is removed, and a couple of drill holes in the pimp between the two seals, Do these supply oil to wet the seals for lubrication?

I was very careful when placing the seal in it's housing and double checked it when it was in.

Will Start the job tommorrow

Darren

carbon
11-12-2007, 08:55 PM
On my 96 2.4d I have also had an oil leak around the crankshaft seal. It wasn't as excessive as yours, but worring all the same. Upon closer inspection I found the solution to my problem. Where the oil pump is bolted to the block some of the bolts had become loose allowing oil to leak between the two. The bolts weren't loose enough that they where dropping out as only about 1/4 of a turn each tightened them backup.

kenney
11-12-2007, 09:53 PM
There is only the one oil seal,but carbon suggested something i have experianced.to remove the oil pump is a good bit of work and the reason i suggested removing the plate was to make sure you were not being missled, that is, the oil leaking from somwhere else and running down onto the oil seal

dangerrous
12-12-2007, 08:53 AM
Thanks guys, I have been meaning to do this job for a while, the sump leaks/sweats a little oil, and the leak from the oil pump has been getting progressively worse, I will admit that I tried to gently prise the pump away from the eng block while investigating the leak beforehand and may have disturbed the gasket, but all bolts are re-torqued up according to the brooklands manual.
The sump is attached to the gearbox. Although I need to replace the clutch I'm hoping I can remove the sump without taking out the gearbox first.
Keep you posted
Darren

ps found another leak, low oil level sensor
never rains but pours!

kenney
12-12-2007, 06:18 PM
Hi again dangerous a bit of advise, although you never asked for it, however, the job you are about to undertake,renewing the clutch on the T4 is one hell of a job, if you have not got the proper eqipement,and taking into consideration you are going to remove the sump and the oil pump,i would stronly advise you to lower the complete unit,engine and gearboxs together and do whatever work thats to been done on the floor.

dangerrous
16-12-2007, 09:55 PM
Well in between doing many other jobs I'm getting on with the t4 clutch.
The hassle to do this is ridiculous, considering this is a serviceable item I'm dissmayed that you have to practrically strip the nearside suspension and engine bay components just to allow enough room to take out the gearbox!
The engine is 'floating' in the engine bay.
The van has covered a measly 152000 miles and this is, as I discovered it's second clutch, I've got a cheap ol' toyota carina e 172000 still on original clutch (Have all of it's history)
The gearbox had to come out to do the sump gasket aswell as it is obscured by the transmission
I've posted some pictures to show where I stand at the moment

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/001.jpg


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/002.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/003.jpg

The last picture is the hole where the gearbox usually sits.

At least it's worth doing as the plate was on it's rivets.

kenney
16-12-2007, 11:10 PM
Hi Its even worse to get it back in place,but i see from the pics you have not removed the drive shaft housing,4 bolts and its off, and a lot easier to enter the gearboxs,the only snag is there will be a bit of oil spillage. I see too from the pics you seem to have had a leakage in the clutch housing.?? You do not have to remove the gearboks to lower the sump.

dangerrous
17-12-2007, 09:17 AM
The gearbox was wet because I had just cleaned it off with a bit if gunk and wd40.
I haven't removed the half shaft transmission because I don't want to disturb/break any dry seals. Although I take your point, I'll have a go without removing first, with the engine just swinging on the engine hoist the gearbox came out without a hitch.
I'll remove the sump and pump today, I should have all the oil leaks sorted only leaving the replacement of the box for another day.

ps I inspected the sump around the transmission and felt I wouldn't be able to remove the sump due to bolts hidden behind it, I didn't try as the gearbox was coming out anyway.

dangerrous
24-12-2007, 10:27 AM
Feels Like Christmas has Come early!
The van's service was started due to the courier work I was going to do for my partner (usual building duties suspended). Feeling that I was running out of time because every job I was doing on the van was running excessively over, I purchased a cheap estate to do the couriering.
In between the couriering I continued to do the work on the van, Engine comparment stripdown and a freely swinging engine/gearbox later- gearbox out New clutch in. This is exactly the same Q&H clutch that was in it only this time it comes with a lifetime guarantee, I'll send off the reg form to activate it.
Sump off, pump out. Found spring retainer from an oil seal, this was blocking the drain hole behind the oil seal. That's why I thought there was another oil seal in a previous post. I can only assume this is why I'd been having this leak all along, and with me putting a new oil seal in I only made it worse by pushing the spring tighter against the drain hole!
Yesterday I managed to put the gearbox in, it took a lot of work 'cause it's so heavy and awkward. There was a lot of raising and lowering of the engine crane and jacks, and kicking of tyres :aargh4:

Now to rebuild the engine compartment and associated parts.

I'll post some more pictures on job completion with an explanation attached to each

kenney
24-12-2007, 02:02 PM
Hi dangerrous WELL DONE,and just one thing you have to be particular with after the repairs you have done ,and that is the torque for the center bolt for the crankshaft sprocket.

dangerrous
24-12-2007, 06:48 PM
Well she's back on the road with a new clutch and gaskets
this is the clutch
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/007.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/006.jpg

This is the reason for the oil leak, I found it sitting behind the oil seal blocking the drain holes
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/dangerrous/009.jpg

I have never had so much work to do on a vehicle to take the clutch out!

I'll link this to a new post for clutch work
D

carbon
24-12-2007, 09:24 PM
It's good to know that you found the reason for the oil leak, but it does look like its been a hard job to get it sorted.

dangerrous
25-12-2007, 11:24 AM
The figure for the crankshaft bolt is 155ftlbs plus 90 degrees (or 315ftlb), and only to be tightened once, A new bolt was fitted as a last job.

Had an old granada diesel which I rebuilt, didn't put a new crankshaft bolt in, used the old one. 50 miles down the line the bolt snapped, lesson learned!

D