96 Golf MK3 - loss of power and no start

[RMANN]

:confused:
Loss of power - followed by a no start when key turned. (Electrics all work)
Have checked fuel pump fuse (ok) and even tested fuel pump releases one solid squirt of fuel.

Cannot figure out problem...

* Can't be starter related due to power loss before hand
* Fuel starvation not seem to be the problem or should I expect to see a different type of fuel flow
* Immobiler - believe this is a common problem (but would it cause loss of power?) Can I disconnect or override?
*Relay 30 (from reading a few posts) - could this be a related issue?

Any other possible causes?

[Alun]

Any info on what car it is? Engine size?

[RMANN]

It's a 1997cc 1996 model

[Crasher]

So a T chassis (wvwzzz1HzTWxxxxxx) Golf 3 GTI 8v with an AGG engine then? Have you had it read for codes? Do you have a spark? Four common causes of non starting on these are crank speed sender, ECU relay, ignition switch and coil, the latter three will not leave a fault code. If it was the factory fitted immobiliser that would cause the car to start and immediately stop again and would not cut the car out when driving but it would leave a fault code on both the engine and immobiliser ECU's.

[RMANN]

Cheers - still I'm under the impression this is related to the the engine cutting out whilst driving. What would cause the loss of power, cut-out and then not be able to start. Surely I can rule out ignition default?
Agreed worth having my codes read.

[Crasher]

Off course it is related to it cutting out whilst driving! Why can you rule out an ignition fault? Do you have a spark?

[RMANN]

I've not checked for a spark, nor do I know how. Can you give me a brief run-down of the process pls.
I'm going to look at replacing the relay & coil whilst i'm at it.

[Crasher]

Take the centre HT lead off the distributor cap and clamp it so that the end is about 1-mm from a metal surface such as a bolt or stud end on the cylinder head for example. Then crank the engine over whilst watching for a spark. WARNING: THIS TEST CAN BE DANGEROUS. If you get the spark instead of the stud the shock could literally kill you if you are susceptible to a 50 odd thousand volt shock and if there is raw fuel around, it could ignite the fuel. Also, such a high level spark could damage sensitive equipment should it jump across onto such equipment-PLEASE TAKE CARE.

[RMANN]

Super. I'll be sure to take care.
On another point when testing the fuel pump fuel flow there was a single gush of fuel when the ignition was turned as apposed to what (i'd expect) a continous flow.
Or is this due to the fact that the engine is not switching on that there is not a continous flow?

[RMANN]

.....is this indicative of a faulty fuel pump?

[Crasher]

The pump will only run when the ECU triggers the fuel pump relay which is only whilst the engine is running or cranking AND with a signal pulse from the hall sender, so if the hall sender is faulty the fuel pump will not run and the coil will not spark.

[ruler_70]

Hey i had a problem where my car would cut out while driving and sometimes didnt want to start. Replaced relay #30 which is a very cheap relay, and it resolved all the problems, so if i where you thats where i would start.