Hydraulics - clutch/brakes

[pondy_p]

I have a H reg G60 Corrado only done 87K and was performing well until It developed a hydraulic problem.
The clutch started biting very early (then eventually wouldn't engage at all) and I noticed the brake fluid was rather low - thought I would try to change the lot. So I got an eezee bleed kit, managed to do the rear brakes using wheel jack. Tried to do the front but perhaps due to my cautious approach (ie. not using too much presssure on the eezee bleed kit to damage seals - you attach it to tire to force out fluid instead of pumping peddle) I didn't get any thing out of the front brakes - it started getting dark yadda yadda - toppped up the reservoir had another go and the clutch and it was the same.
I think I will need to bleed the clutch and check for any leaks - should this only be done with a proper car hoist i.e at a garage. or if I get a couple of axle props for the front will this suffice. Any one actually changed any of the hydraulic cylinder parts before??
Hope these some one as few posts in corrado section!!?

[scotty33]

Does it have a shared fluid reservoir, i.e one reservoir mounted on the brake master cylinder, with a hose linking it to the clutch master cylinder? If so, I have seen this hose fail, could be worth a look?

[pondy_p]

Yes combined reservoir - I have now actually started taking bits off :confused:

I want to replace the hose you speak of, 'cos its hindering getting the brake master cylinder off, then the brake booster/servo off and then allow me to get to the clutch master cylinder - but the hose connection to the reservoir seems glued to the nozzel (no clamp around it) What would the spec be of this hose be just "a braided rubber hose of X diameter"?? where can you buy random lengths of hose? (as I'm probably going to split it at this rate - or hack it off in frustration)

forgive me if this is rather dumb

[ronnieg]

I have a '92 Corrado G60 and have used the eezibleed to good effect to bleed the rear brakes (Now mk4 rear calipers), the front brakes, the clutch master cylinder & the clutch slave cylinder.

The bleeding is really slow if the tyre supplying the air pressure to the eezibleed kit is below the stated 20psi so I usually have it around 25 - 27 psi with no issues.

The normal braking pressures in the hydraulic system are going to be way, way higher than this anyway.....

Sometimes you have to use a paper clip or similar to start the bleeding on the clutch slave cylinder i.e. take out the bleed nipple & clear the bleeding hole into the cylinder itself as it can build up with junk it it hasn't been bled for a while.

[pondy_p]

Did you take the brake servo/booster off to get to the clutch master cylinder?
And did you disconnect any of the gear cables attached above the slave cylinder to get to that?
'cos that what I'm about to do:confused:
I have the Bentley manual but its so vague not like a good old Haynes manual with experienced hands in actual photos showing you how to do it!
bloomin' yanks:D

[scotty33]

My in law's got a length of the hose for their passat from the dealer I think. You could probably get some from an industrial hose supplier/hydraulic hose maker.
Ronnieg is right that the brake circuits see much higher pressures, but the reservoir does not normally have any pressure applied, I would not be too gung ho with the eazibleed!

[ronnieg]

Sorry about the delay in replying as I was away, and it is possible, but I think you will be unlucky if the master cylinder is away as it's much more common for the slave cylinder to go first or else air in the system. In the G60 it's tight for space but you can undo the two 13mm headed bolts & remove the slave cylinder without disturbing the gear cables. If you have to the gear cables ,on the G60, one can be diconnected using the spring type clip on the upper cable & undoing the 13mm headed bolt on the bottom cable. ( I marked mine with tippex before undoing to make sure I could rebuild the cable again in the same position).

I would be tempted to remove the slave cylinder, check for any fluid leaks, if it looks ok then rebuild it, check the clutch pedal is up, then re-bleed the slave cylinder, then the master cylinder and the see how the clutch system performs. I’d save disrupting the master cylinder to last.

[pondy_p]

AArrgh, what have I done - replaced Master brake, clutch, slave clutch cylinders and now my brake lights are PERMANENTLY ON even with the ignition OFF?!!??! I just re-connected the battery and they stay on all the time - had car running and clutch 'works' very early bite (I presume due to new bits!?) - brakes do stop me admitedly only inching back and forth on my drive? I did loosen the brake servo/booster but then decided against changing that, it should be all proper and correct - Ideas??? :1zhelp:

[ronnieg]

Even with new clutch & cylinders the 'bite' should be about mid way up the pedal so if yours is still to near to the floor it may be worth re-bleeding just to check theres no air at all in the system.

As regards the brake lights - These are on a permanently live circuit i.e. they don't need the ignition to work. I would say it would be worth checking the wires going to the brake light switch which is on the top part of the pedal mechanism under the dash. Are they re-connected ok & the right way round ? Could these brake switch wires have got 'trapped' or damaged & be shorting out during all the work you have been doing ???

[scotty33]

This just sounds like the brake light switch has been disturbed or not refitted to it's holder? (If you press the brake pedal, even with the ignition off, they would normally come on)

[pondy_p]

Not sure if replacment part piston arm of brake master cylinder is slightly shorter or what, but basicaly the pressure switch isn't reached by the brake peddle - I have currently just packed around the peddle so it depresses the switch. Brakes seem as they were before work not marvelous but good enough.