Coolant pump B open cct P261A 00(237)

[dovski]

Hello V-dubbers,

I am a newbie to this forum again. Having built my 20V 1.8t and stuck it in my lotus its been going well as has my Amarok until the title popped up. I used to have vagcom but sold it with my A4 3.0tdi..So, I'm using torque for android and have backed up the fault as detected by vagcom at ADS in Preston. I replaced the pump with one from Amazon at £40 new and it runs and I'm able to reset the fault code but the code still appears randomly, with the car going into limp home. I've tried to get the wiring/color codng for the pump 3 pin plug but theres nothing around I can find. Even the fuse box illustrations are diverse and pretty useless, theres no fuse in slot 14 for example which is the pump fuse according to ausamarok forum images...

Can anyone help with further diagnosis? I wondered if there is an associated temp sensor giving erroneous output? The old pump is defo nackered as the fault is hard once plugged back in circuit...and doesnt run immediately on connection unlike the new one. Theres also a relay in the circuit I believe but unsure where this item lives..

Scratching my head...

[Crasher]

Could you message me the cars REG, there are two electric pumps on some models.

[dovski]

Thank you, its (as sent). There is a second pump similar to the EGR pump, it appears to be in the heater matrix circuit?
Drove to work last night, about 25miles at 60mph on motorway and cruise cut out, limp home mode. Plugged 'Torque' in my phone and reset the same code on the hoof as it were...same thing happened on the way home again. I dont see any idents on the plug for cabling, hoping the new pump fitted from 'Amazon' isnt the issue, it was £40 compared to the £145+ from VW though..:confused:

[dovski]

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[Crasher]

There are two electric pumps, V51 and V55, V51 is the "continued coolant circulation pump" on a bracket on the engine, and V55 is the “electric coolant pump”, on the left wheel housing, both are part number 03L 965 561 A at £150.01 genuine and I think you have replaced the wrong one. I think a proper code read MAY say V51 or V55 instead of pump a or b.

[dovski]

35564
The guys at ADS preston sent me pic of their diagnosis for keeps Crasher...I know the other pump location. I went with the front pump as the glow lamp was on as was the mil eventually..I may swap them round and see if I get a different result. As I say, at the moment, it appears not linked to coolant temp as I was monitoring it on torque. It peaked at 88 under load up hill and reduced to 78 descending the other side but at no time during that temp cycle did the pump come on. Ill swap them over and let you know tomorrow. Very grateful for the info.

[dovski]

Not swapped the pumps over yet, later today. Bought another pump, will see how it goes friday when that arrives..thanks Crasher

[Crasher]

Yes I think it is VCDS not giving an upto date code interpretation, I think it is because they are using an older VCDS cable and they need to upgrade to the newer HEX NET cable, bit of a pain. This happened to me last year when I had a Golf 7 in with the same problem, it took me a while to decide which pump it was as both worked so I changed the intercooler pump and found it was the heater matrix pump....

[dovski]

The v51 pump is definitely u/s and has the pt no. 03L 965 561 A but the v55 heater pump has only the two pole plug, I assume theres no sense line there to it like v51 which has 3 poles. I cant interchange them as originally thought. Would you have the pt no. for the two pole heater pump? Do you think its worth replacing the v51 pump again? I now have two of those, but as I said earlier, the first time I replaced the v51 egr cooler pump the fault reset ok, then, after plugging back the old pump the fault returned immediately so I suspected that the replacement pump was good...
The fault code resets now but comes on at seemingly unconnected times, ie sitting steady 60 on the motorway on the flat so no heat stress.. Is there any VCDS up near lanark that would decode the fault more accurately, perhaps with the hex net cable setup?

[dovski]

263728896176 ebay item.....this is like the pump fitted to the heater v55 position.. fyi

[Crasher]

When I checked they were the same number but you have taken your reg away, Private Message me it.

[dovski]

My Reg is VE62 CPF..its a bitdi 2.0 bluemotion.. Seems I've not had 15 posts yet so PM's are disabled..unfortunately.

Think I mentioned that I could feel the new v51 run when connected with ignition off..when I put the old one back on, it didnt. I then assumed the old pump to be knackered. It doesnt mean that a cheaper replacement is serviceable though..
Whats funny is it went from being a hard fault to becoming intermittent...hate faults like this, I dont have vcds access locally either and the VW van centre is 40 miles away. Local vw wont look at it in bathgate.

TOPRAN Additional Water Pump for vehicles without towbar for hot climate zones EL (117 255) buy cheap online (https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/topran/12925955)

This link is to the v55 heater circuit pump I believe is fitted in front of the battery, above the nearside wheelarch..

Thanks for taking the time to help invest. Ive not used the second v51 pump I have yet..:Blush:

Rgds

[dovski]

i'll take the v55 off and check for numbers now......

[dovski]

7HO 965 561 = v55? would this pump which is two pole throw up the same code? pump runs when connected..when the engine is warm..

[dovski]

ok, I am off to buy an oem pump, I think the ebay item is causing the intermittent issues, I'll let you all know..

[dovski]

75 miles so far and all seems well....fingers crossed

[dovski]

Ok, conclusion is/was; the aftermarket ebay pump v51 was not of the correct/compatible spec with the ECU, throwing code P261A 00 at random intervals. I assume this was when commanded in one direction or the other by the ecu.
Hope someone finds this useful and thanks to Crasher for his inputs.:beerchug:

[Crasher]

I am not against aftermarket parts, quite the opposite. I use the trade system Tec Doc to find listed companies who offer cross references and certain companies are very trust worthy such as Febi, VDO and Pierburg, some less so. Before I dive in and use cheap stuff on customers cars, I use myself as a guinea pig such as with secondary air injection pumps. I run a 2003 Octavia VRS which I try and keep environmentally as original. My secondary air injection pump packed up (common issue) and a new VAG part was insane money at £590, more than half the old girls value and even aftermarket was only half this but I found a Chinky one at basically less than knock the zero off and it has been perfect, in fact quieter than the original. It is a case of being careful and selective BUT experience is invaluable. When I suspected this new pump was not good I fitted a new Pierburg inlet valve and all is now good.