Broken/Smashed Rear Control Arm - Help [Photos]

[Skezza]

Front passenger side rear control arm is completely smashed out of the joint, you can see the bushing. I've attached some photos to demonstrate.

Firstly, can the car be driven? I'm aware it can't be driven particularly safely but could it be transported say a few miles, or is there a real chance of the wheel buckling? Perhaps a stupid question...

Secondly, how hard, considering it's already smashed out would it be to replace? Would I need any specialist tools or just spanners/sockets and could I simply whip off the wheel, get a second hand part off eBay and drop it in? Does a replacement need pressing?

Photos:
http://i.imgur.com/VIrFMYS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZgmsvGe.jpg?1

[zollaf]

ouch, what did you hit to do that..
no, dont drive it. get it recovered.

[Skezza]

ouch, what did you hit to do that..
no, dont drive it. get it recovered.

Partner hit a curb, very very hard. It's trashed the wheel as well (albeit cosmetically) and blew the side airbags. I drove it a short distance and have since had it low loaded home. The question is whether I take it to a garage (i.e. drive it) or do it on my drive?

With it being smashed out like that, i figured it would be quite easy to replace, but it's only easy if i don't have to press a new one in because i don't have the ball joint press tool etc?

[zollaf]

you may also want to get the alignment of the front subframe checked if it was hit that hard, may well of bent something else. needs a proper inspection first by a qualified person in the air on a ramp.

[Skezza]

There doesn't appear to be anything visibly, but agreed. I think the rear control arm took most the impact but It'll need looking at. If I can put the new part in then I can at least drive it to get it up in the air and see if anything else is bent.

The bigger thing is getting that part replaced and whether I can do it with normal tools? I might whip the wheel off, have a look.

[zollaf]

well its only a bolt at the back and a stud should be left in the hub that should knock out although you may need a splitter of some sort to get it out.

[Skezza]

well its only a bolt at the back and a stud should be left in the hub that should knock out although you may need a splitter of some sort to get it out.
Might have a look this evening then. Not a good day tbh. Not a good day at all.

Can see this almost writing off the car. The airbag situation is enough to put me off as that's not as easy a job I imagine.

I'd prefer not to buy any more tools as it's all time I guess. I might get a second hand one ordered off ebay.


I'm right in thinking this is the same one?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A4-convertible-B6-Front-passenger-LH-control-arm-suspension-arm-wishbone-/262917904926?hash=item3d3720da1e:g:6ugAAOSw32lYn4g r

[zollaf]

yes, the airbags are the biggest thing to put right, new bags, sort the ecu, can be costly. the arm is well cheap in comparison.

[Skezza]

yes, the airbags are the biggest thing to put right, new bags, sort the ecu, can be costly. the arm is well cheap in comparison.
Yup. Nightmare. That and the fact an entire mug of coffee flew around the cabin of the car.

Am I Right in thinking this is the arm?
..AUDI A4 convertible B6 Front passenger LH control arm suspension arm wishbone | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A4-convertible-B6-Front-passenger-LH-control-arm-suspension-arm-wishbone-/262917904926?hash=item3d3720da1e:g:6ugAAOSw32lYn4g r)

[calum]

The rear arm needs that side of the subframe dropped to retrieve the bolt, just three bolts to do that though. Easy enough, breakers for the replacement airbags.


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[Skezza]

I think I can see the bolt you speak of, the one that is closer to the centre of the car? Possible to do without dropping the subframe perhaps? Not sure, will need to get the wheel off I think.

[calum]

I think I can see the bolt you speak of, the one that is closer to the centre of the car? Possible to do without dropping the subframe perhaps? Not sure, will need to get the wheel off I think.

No, the bolt is too long but you only have to lower that side not drop the whole subframe, you will probably have to lever it down some.


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[Skezza]

No, the bolt is too long but you only have to lower that side not drop the whole subframe, you will probably have to lever it down some.


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Thanks Calum, really useful information.

[calum]

Thanks Calum, really useful information.

You're welcome [emoji106]


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[Eibbor]

I've just done this arm on mine and didn't lower subframe. Removed a bit of plastic trim that the bolt was hitting on way out.


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[Skezza]

Tbh, there was a lot more damage than we first thought and it became uneconomical to repair.

What a shame.

[calum]

Tbh, there was a lot more damage than we first thought and it became uneconomical to repair.

What a shame.

What else was damaged, subframe?


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[Skezza]

What else was damaged, subframe?


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There was a bit of damage to the subframe, although I think it could have been fixed, or even possibly safely driven without fixing. Depends which way you look at it. I know people who have straightened out crash damaged front bars for example.

The exhaust at the manifold was damaged, and the bottom part of the intercooler near the floor, the black piping which is mounted on the intercooler, was also ripped clean off and was dropping fluid which quite possibly had damaged the turbo as well. I'm not entirely sure how true that is, but I know it can happen. The jobs were mounting up every time I looked at it.

When I weighed up the costs of repair, alongside the fact it was leaking oil from the rocker gasket anyway (so new breather system was potentially required), and needed some serious work inside thanks to the ****** McDonalds coffee which flew around the cabin, I just felt it really wasn't worth it. It's a shame, great car and what's more, the missus won't let me have another as A4's are now 'cursed', hence I'm keenly looking at an A3.... or maybe an A6? :o:o Hmmm...

Perhaps another A4 and tell her it's not the same engine will be enough :D ?

[calum]

There was a bit of damage to the subframe, although I think it could have been fixed, or even possibly safely driven without fixing. Depends which way you look at it. I know people who have straightened out crash damaged front bars for example.

The exhaust at the manifold was damaged, and the bottom part of the intercooler near the floor, the black piping which is mounted on the intercooler, was also ripped clean off and was dropping fluid which quite possibly had damaged the turbo as well. I'm not entirely sure how true that is, but I know it can happen. The jobs were mounting up every time I looked at it.

When I weighed up the costs of repair, alongside the fact it was leaking oil from the rocker gasket anyway (so new breather system was potentially required), and needed some serious work inside thanks to the ****** McDonalds coffee which flew around the cabin, I just felt it really wasn't worth it. It's a shame, great car and what's more, the missus won't let me have another as A4's are now 'cursed', hence I'm keenly looking at an A3.... or maybe an A6? :o:o Hmmm...

Perhaps another A4 and tell her it's not the same engine will be enough :D ?

Ah that's too bad mate but you have to cut your losses when you feel the time is right. If you need room in the back your best bet is an A6, acres of room in there. My son is 15 and just 1cm less than 6 foot tall and he moans about the legroom compared to the B5.5 Passat, I just tell him, I don't care because it's a Quattro :argue:

[Skezza]

I do like the A6. I think I would probably prefer a C6 rather than C5 though which might mean I have to finally stump up the cash for a HEX-CAN Vag tool. Gahh.

I must admit, I have grown quite fond of the 8P A3. There's something surprisingly timeless about the frontend. Very modern, unlike my B6 which always looked a bit dated imo. Stick a dateless personalized plate on one, and you would struggle to tell whether it was made in 2003 or 2013. My problem with the A3 is that the trim level seems a little 'less' compared to my A4. No projector headlights, climate control but not dual, etc. I think I will probably have to compromise on that. Plus, there's a sneaky rumour that some of those early 8P A3's from what I've been told are still dual K-Line, like the B6 A4, which would be a massive bonus to me.

Hard to be sure though.