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RonB58
10-03-2017, 04:58 PM
Hi folks,
Audi A4 Allroad 2.0TDI.
Car has 110,000 miles.
Driving home today I got the Switch off Engine, Oil Pressure too low warning. Checked oil level (on the dashboard) and it said it was at Maximum. Waited ten minutes and slowly drove off.
There was a whistling sound then the car went into limp mode with glow plug light flashing, and oil light flashing.
Nursed the car home, only a mile or so, and there was some clanking and banging coming from the engine. I put another drop of oil (500ml) in and when I started the car the oil level gauge came on, showing 85% full. Put my code reader on and got P0299.

Car is still clanking and banging and I havent driven it again.

Could it be low oil pressure and this has caused turbo damage? Could a pipe have split somewhere near the actuator?

Dunno what to check!

Help!

Ron

djl78
10-03-2017, 11:49 PM
16683/P0299/000665 - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665)

Gazwould
11-03-2017, 01:02 AM
What is it with people wanting to limp the car home causing more damage :confused:

Rob69
11-03-2017, 08:25 AM
It sounds like you've lost the oil pump drive due to the hex key having rounded off, this is known fault on 2 litre engine at that sort of mileage. There is a kit to upgrade the oil pump drive. If the engine is stopped immediately you might have been able to repair the pump drive and been lucky, but the drive home has now written the engine and turbo off. That fault code and limp mode is probably just a symptom of the turbo being seized or rattling round. If you want to check, drain the oil and look for bearing metal fragments, drop the sump and big end caps, remove the turbo compressor inlet and check for shaft seizure or excessive play.

Gazwould
11-03-2017, 08:34 AM
Alas another victim of the

http://rs1310.pbsrc.com/albums/s645/Gazwould/2016-01-03%2000.17.53_zpsy6bq8vpp.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip

Mario
11-03-2017, 11:08 AM
What year is your car?

Davmar
11-03-2017, 11:22 AM
Hi Rob,
Re: your comments oil pump drive failure!
Is this only relative to diesel variant 2.0 litre lumps or common to petrol as well? I'm inquisitive as my petrol engine is @ 100k +

Gazwould
11-03-2017, 11:24 AM
Diesel and only PD & CR 77mm oem , CR 100mm oem don't fail .

mhurer
12-03-2017, 05:56 PM
How can I tell if I have a PD, CR77mm or 100mm?

Gazwould
12-03-2017, 07:42 PM
Engine code ?

RonB58
14-03-2017, 03:58 AM
Hi Rob, sorry I havent got back to you sooner.
Even though the engine idles normally I know the turbo is shot, and possibly much more. It is with the mechanics tomorrow. I have to decide on my options here and you do seem to know what is going on with these engines. I can buy an engine (around 50,000 miles seems to be the norm) for around a grand, it will need a turbo and all the other bits refitted to it. I reckon it will cost me around 3,000 minimum to get the car back on the road. If I can get it on the road for that I will trade it in after a month or so. So in my position would you fit another engine, which has also the potential of the pump fail, or sell the car as a damaged repairable?
If I had known all this I wouldnt have bought an Audi, or this model!
Which engine is safe, if I was to buy another Audi? 3.0TDI? Or what car would you recommend, it has to be an estate with a bit of power.
Many thanks,
Ron

RonB58
14-03-2017, 03:59 AM
2009

Rob69
14-03-2017, 08:22 AM
Sorry to hear of your predicament Ron, if you were to re-engine the car for 3k or so, are you better not just keeping it, running it a while to make sure the engine is ok, then getting the oil pump upgrade fitted? If you want rid then sale as a damaged repairable would save you hassle and additional cost (DMF, clutch, turbo, possibly on your donor engine). I've seen a pal spend thousands getting a ford engine repaired, only to trade it in losing thousands more in the process.
See what your mechanic says damage, wise but TBH i'd expect bad news.
I can't recommend any other car, they all have their weaknesses and faults! it's just finding out what they are and preventing or pre-empting failures. I can't comment on 3 litre tdi's from personal experience but it seems like modern diesels are so complicated and expensive to diagnose and repair and with the current anti diesel sentiment from the government and BBC, their days look numbered. Do you need a diesel or would a petrol be ok? I have looked briefly at octavia vrs estates to replace my estate.
I've got a 12 year old 1.9 tdi passat estate, been looking to replace it but really not coming up with anything better, the tsi engines have timing chain problems and I'm avoiding anything with dpf, but having just serviced and replaced all the brakes on the passat i'll likely just keep that another year or so.
Hope you get sorted without too much pain!

Hi Rob, sorry I havent got back to you sooner.
Even though the engine idles normally I know the turbo is shot, and possibly much more. It is with the mechanics tomorrow. I have to decide on my options here and you do seem to know what is going on with these engines. I can buy an engine (around 50,000 miles seems to be the norm) for around a grand, it will need a turbo and all the other bits refitted to it. I reckon it will cost me around 3,000 minimum to get the car back on the road. If I can get it on the road for that I will trade it in after a month or so. So in my position would you fit another engine, which has also the potential of the pump fail, or sell the car as a damaged repairable?
If I had known all this I wouldnt have bought an Audi, or this model!
Which engine is safe, if I was to buy another Audi? 3.0TDI? Or what car would you recommend, it has to be an estate with a bit of power.
Many thanks,
Ron

Mario
14-03-2017, 08:45 AM
2009

Guessing that's the year of your car? For what it's worth, Audi fixed the issue on the 2010 model and started using 100mm hex keys. Too little too late, I know! However if you can source a 2010 onward engine it should have the new part already in it.

RonB58
14-03-2017, 12:00 PM
Hi Rob,
OK the mechanics called round this morning and started the car, the clanking was still there. They disconnected a connector for the manifold vanes?? and restarted the car, clanking noise was gone. Refitted connector and still no noise. They said the engine sounded sweet with no big end knocking. Oil pressure light still flashing and car in limp mode, no white smoke. They thought the engine in my car didnt have the 70mm shaft but wont know until they get it up on the hoist. Engine number is CAH073577. I wonder is there any chance the sump is sludged up causing a pressure sensor issue?
Thanks for the info and advice!

Ron

Rob69
15-03-2017, 08:14 AM
Don't think it will be a sludged pick up, you might be lucky, keep us posted!

RonB58
15-03-2017, 08:37 PM
They have the oil pump sorted and full oil pressure now but the turbo is blown. Seems to be around 700 for a genuine Audi one. No engine damage, sump clear and they also cut the oil filter in half to check for metal but none found.
Ron

zollaf
15-03-2017, 08:42 PM
a genuine audi turbo will be from the likes of garret or kkk, whatever was fitted. try places like turbo technics or essex turbo for a better price on the exact same thing. you may be able to get yours rebuilt for even less, but dont go with an inknown bodgit place that will fit a cheap chinese core.

FLAPPERJACK76
15-03-2017, 08:51 PM
Essex turbos try them. Been there a few times over the past 25 year's. They know there stuff. They have literally hundreds of vag turbochargers in stock.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

RonB58
15-03-2017, 09:02 PM
Cheers guys, this is all very helpful. The price the mechanics got was from Audi but I will certainly try calling the ones suggested,
many thanks!
Am just relieved the engine is ok with no damage.

Ron