need to connect front FOGS to mk3 gti

[cyrilp]

I have a P reg mk3 GTI 8v and have fitted in new Fogs, the car only had dummy's b4, now I'm stuck as I cannot find any wiring for the fogs in place.
can any1 help with info on how to connect and some pics or diagrams will b gr8...........

cheers:1zhelp:

[BugsyMalone666]

Im also intested in knowing the same thing. Mines a 1.8 driver, i know that apparently the headlight switch is different, but after having taken one appart i can only see that the difference is an led/symbol?

the haynes manual is crap and doesnt seem to show a wiring diagram for front fogs, just the rear! looks like extra wiring maybe at the headlight multiplug on the cars loom side near the release catch, just not on the headlight loom side, is this the case?

[BugsyMalone666]

Right after trawling the internet for 3 or 4 days on VW Vortex forum there is a description of how to install them. You need the actual headlight switch with front fogs.


DIY Fog Lights for MK III Golf/Jetta w/o factory fogs

I have a '97 Jetta GL, and I was interested in getting factory fog lights. However, I didn't have the factory wiring harness to do so, nor did I have the switch located in the dash. I bought the North American switch and 2 sets of fog lights from a fellow member.
The following were the items I used, and that you'll need:
1) Soldering Iron
2) Head Gun or a lighter
3) Small diameter shrink tube
4) Small snips (wire cutters)
5) Rosin Core solder
6) 1 (one) yellow ring terminal
7) 16 Gauge wire
8) Crimp tool for crimping ring terminals (if possible)
9) 30 Amp relay for Fog lights and a 15 Amp fuse or greater
10) North American Fog Light Switch
11) Electrical Tape

Remove the dual dummy panels within the bumper, and gently place each fog light into it's designated location to measure wire.

On the passenger side, I measured out a ground wire to be long enough to travel to the battery, and a positive wire long enough to go to the round connector located under the rad shroud. I cut back a portion of each wire, "tinned" the wire, and cut a piece of shrink tube long enough to cover the wire and the fog light connector. When looking at the back of the fog light, the ground is the top connector, while the power is the bottom. Although it doesn't matter, I chose to do it like that. You can open up the light to double check, this is the same for both lights. I repeated this step for the drivers side fog light.

When looking at the round connector, the Grey w/ Yellow stripe is the power for the fog lights. If you either cut the wire, or remove a portion of the casing, you can twist and solder the two power wires for each fog light to the bare powe wire. Make sure you have enough wire, because in this case it might be better to have a little too much, than not enough. After soldering the 3 (three) wires together, I used electrical tape to seal the wires, and reused the split loom to cover all of the wires up.

For the two ground wires, I twisted them together and crimped them inside a Yellow Ring terminal (10 to 12 gauge wire) and put a piece of shrink tube over the end, and used electrical tape to further seal it.
I tried to run the wires from each fog in an "out of the way" area, and zip tied the wires in a nice and clean manner.

I purchased a relay from my local Radio Shack/The Source (in Canada). It was an "Automotive Relay", rated @ 30 amps. Cost me appoximately $11.75 CAD. This relay plugs directly into the #10 relay slot, known as the Fog Light Slot. Also make sure to have a 15 amp fuse or greater in the Fog Light fuse slot for this system to work.

For the final step, I switched out my stock headlight switch for the North American Fog Light switch. Where'd you normally twist the lever clockwise to activate your marker lights and dash lights, you'd pull the lever out to activate the Fog Lights on the North American switch.

If your fog lights came with mounting hardware (ie. bolts to secure the housing in the bumper) your set. My lights didn't, so I'll have to get some 1/4" bolts and lock nuts to secure the housing inside the bumper. Middle dummy panels can also be purchased from the dealership, or the local junk yard. This job took me approx. 1.5 hours with the tools listed above. Should you not have all of the tools, it might take you a little longer, provided you have soldering and electrical know-how. An interesting thing to note as well is that my fog lights stay on with the Low and High Beams, and I'm not 100% sure if they are supposed to do that or not.

time to start hunting for some extra bits and see if it works!

[cyrilp]

Cheers Bugsy, will try that hopefully it works.

Thanks
Cyril:beerchug:

[BugsyMalone666]

Ok just a little update, as i did mine today.

basically the reflector piece is different next to the indicators, theres a shorter version for cars with fogs, im waiting for some to come from germany along with tinted indicators.

its a really easy job to do if you have basic skills of crimping connectors and a bit of soldering.

standing at the front of the car looking at the engine with the bonnet open, where your left hand is next to the radiator theres the front lighing loom mulitplug.

the left hand section is the same for all cars, the right hand side of the plug is the loom to the front lights, when you unscrew the plug halfs and look in the right hand side you`ll see there is just one pin missing(in my golf this is the case) thats the one for the front fogs.

I was lucky and managed to find a connector very similar to what was in multiplug floating about amongst my spares but litlerally if you connect a cable to the grey/yellow stripe cable, wire that to the front fogs live, earth them and swap the jumper on relay 10 with an actual relay, your fogs will work with the rear one(just not on side lights, thats the difference between the 2 switches) on the standard switch.

probably one off the simplest jobs I have done on the car and it didnt take long!

[smithaaron3]

Hi sorry to bring up an old thread but I am doing the same to my golf all is straight forwards untill you mention about swaping the jumper on relay 10 with an actual relay could I bother anyone to explain this for me?

Thanks

[BugsyMalone666]

If you look at the fuse/relay panel under the dash, there is a row of fuses and then there is all the relays, you`ll notice the slot in the relay bank marked as 10 on the little panel will just have a small brass jumper connecting 2 of the connections together, you simply remove this and insert a standard automotive 4 pin relay in its place.

[smithaaron3]

thanks thats all cleared up cheers !!!