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View Full Version : Now let the work commence



erubus
31-10-2015, 01:32 PM
Hi there guys. I finally got the all clear fom the finance comaony that was trying to seize my car due to a previous owners debt. Apparently they made the decision not to pursue it way back in septmeber but its against their company policy to inform the people they are trying to seize the vehicle off!! I had to contact them myself.

Anyway, now that I get to keep my own car, I can start to do the work thats needing done. As I have no history, I am going to change the timing belt, tensioners and water pump just as a matter of course - its only about £60 - 70 of parts and a few hours of my time (using my old mans huge discount at his work)I

also need to look into the knocking coming from the front end that is getting worse and worse. I'm currently thinking it could be subframe mounts as everything else seems OK, but I need to have a good poke around and try and pin it down because its very annoying.

One of the inner track rod ends seems to have play in it, although this could be internal to the rack, I need to investigate.

The gearbox needs its bearing change. I may have to bite the bullet and either fit a five speed until I can sort the six speeder or fork out the money for a genuine repair kit. Either way its more expensive than I would prefer.

This one I'm not so sure about. The engine bay has a good coating of oil all around it. I had thought this was due to a slightly bad fitting turbo boost pipe but now I have a more worrying theory. The brake pedal intermittently goes rock hard - ie no vacuum assistance. Usually a bit of a worry when in traffic. It mostly seems to do it at low revs, like trundling along in 6th at 30 mph then finding you need to stop and solid pedal! Luckily I'm used to inordinately heavy brakes from my series landy and have a strong leg to compensate but its usually a bit of a panic.

Does this sound like the tandem pump has failed/is failing? lots of oil in engine bay and intermittent loss of vacuum? What are the options regarding fixing the pump if it has failed, costs etc? It could be something simple of course like a loose or perished vacuum hose. I still need to have a good look around, steam cleanto the engine to see where oil is coming from etc. Are there any diagnostic methods to check the tandem pump? I have a new fuel filter to fit and know that if this is oily thats a pretty good indication (one of the A3s has this problem)

cheers in advance, gill

nevo
31-10-2015, 01:45 PM
The servo's have a habit of internally rusting,firstly check the hose where it attaches to the tandem give it a wiggle the tube has a habit of the tube were it connects working loose due to vibration,then get a vacuum gauge and check the vac being pulled,there's a small hose connection by the non return valve,also check the non return itself,check for cracks and splits to the plastic tube to the servo.

erubus
31-10-2015, 01:56 PM
Ah yeah, never thought of the non return valve, cheers. That would make most sense due the intermittent nature of the fault. Will give the whole system a good check over though. I really need to get myself a vac gauge, although I can usually get one from work, its a pain trying to remember. Would be nice fo it to be something simple and not the tandem pump. Still need to narrow down the location of the oil leak though as its a damn nuisance. Even changing a side light bulb the other day got me covered. Must just be a fine mist though as the sump level doesnt fall - may even be an old leak thats been sorted but not cleaned up.

johnca
03-11-2015, 09:28 PM
As for the knocking check all the subframe bolts are tight as i had the same problem as you until i found 3 bolts had come loose. I took mine out and covered them in thread lock glue and its been fine since.