Can't get cambelt tensioner pulley off 130pd engine (ASZ)

[MOOROO]

Hi,

I'm changing the cambelt on my Mk4 golf 1.9 tdi 130 pd engine (code ASZ). And i'm having a few problems.

I've removed the bolts from the Engine mount (the one that attaches to the block, the 'inner mount'), including satan's bolt at the rear that's protected by my air con pipes, so I can wiggle that around, but not remove it. I know i can get the cambelt behind the mount, so no probs there, however i can't get the tensioner pulley off as it just hits the engine mounting before coming off the threaded shaft its on. I'm getting the feeling i need to totally remove the mounting, however the forums I've read say you can get away without doing so, mind you they never talk about the tensioner pulley.

So does anyone have any advice on either how to get the tensioner pulley off without removing the mounting, or how to remove the mounting (i.e. do i need to lower the engine by like a foot on the right hand side, in which case do i need to remove the rear mounting, g/box side mounting, exhaust, drive shafts etc...?).

Other than that the only issue I've found is the push rod that presses against the tensioner pulley appears to be stuck, but hopefully i should be able to replace that, although i bet i have to have the engine mounting off for that as well.

Thanks in advance.

[Crasher]

You have to disconnect the torque reaction arm under the gearbox and then lower the engine right down and with the water pump off, you can remove the mount bracket and the tensioner. These days we ALWAYS replace the tensioner stud, they are gaining a nasty reputation for failing when they have been used twice or more.

[MOOROO]

Brill, thanks Crasher.

So just to confirm, my right hand engine mount is already disconnected (compliant bit removed), now all i need to do is remove the torque reaction arm, and drop the engine however far i need so I can access the bits via the wheel arch? Is there anything i need to keep an eye on to make sure i don't bring the engine down too far and knacker any other bits?

From what i saw the tensioner pulley stud did look a bit ropey, so will definitely replace it. It's basically a threaded bar right, so removing it would be done by gripping it with molegrips and unscrewing?

[Crasher]

There are many parts on the engine and body connected together such as boost and radiator hoses, the exhaust system etc and these can get stretched so take care, plus you can rip the gearbox mount. We support the engine with an inner wing top side to side cross brace and lower it up and down as required.

[MOOROO]

Well I'm feeling a bit embarrassed now. Managed to get the pulley of without removing the mount by undying the stud at the same time as the pulley so both parts came away together. Should have thought of that first. D'oh!

[zollaf]

best one i had was a mount that literally just fell to the floor with no assistance from me at all. i think i was just lifting the engine a bit to start the struggle and off it went. easy as that. would it go back on, would it fudge...

[Crasher]

That stud MUST be replaced and a critical point is that when fitting the new one, the shoulder of where it changes form M10 to M8 must be below the level of the head with no possibility of this shoulder pulling up behind the tensioner or it will snap.