GOLF - cuts out/sometimes wont start

[nyze]

Hi all,

this is my first post so first of all hello and thanks for having me!!! looking forward to hopefully getting to know some good people.

i have a mkiii golf 2.0 gti 8 valve which has been causing me no end of grief recently.

Most journeys when driving the car will just cut out but within a matter of a second or two it will just kick back until life. Just before it cuts out the rpm needle normally jumps and down and the oil/dash light come on. it rarely cuts out to the degree where i have lost power steering and all else and have had to pull over - but it has been known. Most time it will restart but not always. Also some mornings it will not start atall - give it 20 minutes and she will fire up. From the tests I have done when it won't start there seems to be no life from the coil pack or HT leads atall. No spark what soever.

Easy I thought - got a new coil pack - no change. Okay while I was poking about I replaced a split breather hose and put on a new mass airflow meter - a couple of jobs I have been putting off anyway.

Next thing I tried was the ECU relay - I have had this problem on a previous golf exhibiting vaguely similar problem - £7 so no big one but again no change.

Now I am at a complete loss - do any of you guys have any idea what I might try next?

just to let you know two different vw dealers have read my fault codes and there was nothing picked up so I am picking my brain for ideas.

Thanks for your help in advance guys.

[RMANN]

Any resolution on your problem? I'm having some similar issues - be interested how you resolved this.

[Crasher]

The chap in the first case never came back but I suspect it was his crank speed sensor. Is yours an ADY or AGG engine?

[hornetcarp]

this is exactly the problem i have....in fact that could be written by me!!!!

have you resolved the problem??

i've only just replaced the #30 ecu relay but after reading your post i'm not so hopeful now!!

mines a AGG

[Cragus]

Hi! I'm having the same problem with my 1.6 CL m8. Open ur bonnet at night or dusk and crank the engine up. If it wont start keep trying till it does. Okay what ur looking for is when ur engine is idling erratically ( if it does ) look towards the back of the bay just under the wiper assembly at a greyish metal box tucked there. Also listen for any " clicking" when the engine judders. Look under the box for any blue glow or spark. If you see a spark then ur ignition coil is arcing to the nearest earth causing a loss of voltage thus causing the juddering/cutting out/non-starting. I've just ordered a new coil from ebay for £40 p+p which is good. I'll let u know how i get on. Failing that throw a hammer at the engine block that usually works :D

[HarijsK]

must say. I got the same car as you (MK3 2.0 8v `94) and I`m having exactly thes same problem. Car dies for few secsonds or minute, but engine cranks, when starting, but won`t fire. Finaly it died indefinitely and had no spark from ignition coil. Got it replaced and car ran fine for 10km and everything from the start again. by the way, it always starts in the morning, and dies after a few minutes of driving.

Did you solved your problem? Realy need help.
some telme that its Imobiliser or stock alarm...(same? don`t know)

[iep]

Hi, I'm not saying this will definitely help but these symptoms are not a million miles from the ones I had (and have read about others having) with a faulty ignition switch. In my case, it would crank, start but thewn cut out when I returned the key to the 'run' position. What was happening was that the feed to the ignition circuit was dropping out in between 'crank' and 'run'. It didn't drop out when running for me but others have reported that it did for them (depends how the switch has failed.

Either way, it will cost you £10 for a new switch to find out. You don't even need to fully install it in the car. Just unplug connector from back of existing switch and plug your new switch onto that. then (crucially) insert key into barrel and turn to relaese steering lock and let immob know that real key is present. You can then turn the new switch with a screwdriver to start the car. Take it for a spin and see what happens. Took me less than 10 mins to test my switch out using this method (though I had already removed the ignition cowling.

Just a suggestion, migth be useful.

[HarijsK]

Mine won`t even fire when starting...
but I noticed a strange thing. I have a route that I drive quit often and I noticed that everytime it dies about the same place...like 100m back or forth...and that place is after a downhil, from witch ir roll down in Neutral...tomorow will check, maybe I can provoke the failure and get to the bottom of this.

[Crasher]

Harijsk

Your car has the 2E engine and Digifant injection so my comments previously about a crank speed sensor aren’t relevant to your car. A common cause of the Digifant models playing up is the ECU relay but also we get wiring problems with them. My office managers 93 GTI kept on cutting out and I found that the main ECU earth cable to the battery was fractured internally and I had to run a new cable through the harness from battery to ECU.

[HarijsK]

Thanks for the info...Gonna take a look at the cables....

[baherabbas]

Lol, It seeme to be that you are facing someproblems with the Feuel Pump, I have had some of those problems the last summer, you have to check the outgoing pressure of the feuel pump and of cource , change the Feuel Filter.

I think that you will find the problem out there.

For me, i have changed the both and everything now is going fine.

Let me know if this is effective or not.:confused:

Cheeeeerse:beerchug:


Hi all,

this is my first post so first of all hello and thanks for having me!!! looking forward to hopefully getting to know some good people.

i have a mkiii golf 2.0 gti 8 valve which has been causing me no end of grief recently.

Most journeys when driving the car will just cut out but within a matter of a second or two it will just kick back until life. Just before it cuts out the rpm needle normally jumps and down and the oil/dash light come on. it rarely cuts out to the degree where i have lost power steering and all else and have had to pull over - but it has been known. Most time it will restart but not always. Also some mornings it will not start atall - give it 20 minutes and she will fire up. From the tests I have done when it won't start there seems to be no life from the coil pack or HT leads atall. No spark what soever.

Easy I thought - got a new coil pack - no change. Okay while I was poking about I replaced a split breather hose and put on a new mass airflow meter - a couple of jobs I have been putting off anyway.

Next thing I tried was the ECU relay - I have had this problem on a previous golf exhibiting vaguely similar problem - £7 so no big one but again no change.

Now I am at a complete loss - do any of you guys have any idea what I might try next?

just to let you know two different vw dealers have read my fault codes and there was nothing picked up so I am picking my brain for ideas.

Thanks for your help in advance guys.

[cara_essex]

Hi,

I had the same problem with my golf (1.6cl, 1998 mk3, engine AEE)

Mine used to start fine but the revs wouldnt keep up and they kept dropping really low whenever I came to a stop (roundabouts/junctions etc) the car would really judder like it was about to stall or other times it would just cut out. It was ok if I could accelerate to keep the revs high but impossible to accelerate and brake at same time so it kept dying!! It would always start again straight away though.

The throttle body was cleaned and although Ive had friends who've had the same problem and have done this and it has been enough to stop the problem, this had no effect on my car. So a mechanic done a fault code reading and it came up the 'THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR' anyway unfortunately on my engine code you cant just get this bit so I had to get a whole new THROTTLE VALVE CONTROL UNIT (posh name for throttle body) and was quoted at £380 but managed to get part from Eurocarparts for £170.

Your best bet is to have a diagnostic fault reading done and see what it comes back with

Good luck!

[baherabbas]

Dear Ma'am,

Thank you for your kind e-mail.

Well of cource the Mechanic is right , i am surethat he knows what he is doing.

I am waiting for your feed back about this problem

Wishing you a very good luck :Blush:

baher[
quote=cara_essex;132854]Hi,

I had the same problem with my golf (1.6cl, 1998 mk3, engine AEE)

Mine used to start fine but the revs wouldnt keep up and they kept dropping really low whenever I came to a stop (roundabouts/junctions etc) the car would really judder like it was about to stall or other times it would just cut out. It was ok if I could accelerate to keep the revs high but impossible to accelerate and brake at same time so it kept dying!! It would always start again straight away though.

The throttle body was cleaned and although Ive had friends who've had the same problem and have done this and it has been enough to stop the problem, this had no effect on my car. So a mechanic done a fault code reading and it came up the 'THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR' anyway unfortunately on my engine code you cant just get this bit so I had to get a whole new THROTTLE VALVE CONTROL UNIT (posh name for throttle body) and was quoted at £380 but managed to get part from Eurocarparts for £170.

Your best bet is to have a diagnostic fault reading done and see what it comes back with

Good luck![/quote]

[Valpenguin]

Hi, I've had this problem recently. In the past a diagnostic guy with a computer in his van suggested it was the distributor. (Not the cap!). After replacing it from a scrap yard no problem.

I've just taken the cap off my latest Golf and there was a lot of yellowish plastic residue (looked a bit like bird seed) and after I cleaned this out there was an immediate improvement.

I intend to replace it immediately so don't outbid me on e-bay @ 40 quid new. Probably half that price at scrap yard.

The diagnostic guy is pretty worth looking into too. He cost me 25 quid to plug the computer in but that was it. Hope there is one near you!

Hope this helps!!

Val

[HarijsK]

Got an update on my situation...
Today it died long enough to test few thing. So when it died, I opened the window, trough the window locked the door with key so the alarm is armed, then immediately unlocked (disarm) and after that fuelpump starts working, car starts and goes fine. And this happened today 3 times in a row...
so I`m guessing its alarm or Imobiliser...
anyone knows how to rip that **** out of my car? :zx11:

[Valpenguin]

Thanks for the one post wonder tag!! I kinda only like to talk when I've got something to say!! and maybe help? OK?

Val

[Crasher]

That is automatically applied to the first post! Are you easily upset? Have a look at it now and it says stalled!