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s1paulj
25-02-2015, 05:32 PM
HI Chaps,
Well I feel like proper member for the forum now I have bought a Passat today. 53 plate, AVB 1.9 Diesel with 104K on the clock.
Question about cam belts – is there a way to tell if it’s been changed recently or is it just safer to do it anyway to be sure….
The service hand book has the ‘Toothed belt changed’ ticked at 48K, but it also has ‘spark plugs changed’ ticked too (it’s a diesel)
If its better to do it, (I do my own maintenance) are some brands better than other, in which case what do you recommend??

Regards
Paul

Lukenkarl
25-02-2015, 05:38 PM
OEM belt with tensioner . Unless you can trace the service history through dealer, I would personally take it as not been done.

zollaf
25-02-2015, 05:41 PM
pop the front off and do it, along with the water pump. use either a genuine one or one from gates or dayco or skf. the hardest bit is learning how to remove the front bumper and lock carrier, but once you know where all the bolts are its a 20 minute job.

bk.bas99
25-02-2015, 06:26 PM
yes def get it done unless there is proof of when last changed. It is more age related than mileage, went on my first Passat (1.8 20V) at 71K miles (service book said do at 80K) but car was 5 years old. When I complained to VW they said it had changed to 60K and 4 years and if I had it serviced at the main dealer they would have told me this...!!!! Ended up getting the head recon'd myself for £350 as VW wanted £2K just to look. There seems to be confusion on the Diesels as to whether it is 4 yrs and 60K miles or 5 yrs and 80K...I do the former to be sure...call me paranoid but...

Doctle Odd
25-02-2015, 06:55 PM
You can measure the width across the belt, I think 22 or 23 mm means its been used a while. As Zollaf the Lexicographer said once you get the knack of moving the lock carrier forward you'll change the belt in jig time. Make sure to get the correct special tools before you start

s1paulj
25-02-2015, 07:25 PM
thanks for the advice. Even if the milage of the change was right, it was more than 5 years ago, so will definately get it done asap. What special tools are required?

Doctle Odd
25-02-2015, 07:33 PM
thanks for the advice. Even if the milage of the change was right, it was more than 5 years ago, so will definately get it done asap. What special tools are required?

Very little really, crankshaft locking tool, cam holding tool and tensioner tool. Whole lot costs maybe a score and no Tipex! You can use threaded bar wrapped in duct tape to support the lock carrier

Col
26-02-2015, 01:24 AM
Top tip on this as a DIY'er to another DIY'er.

Spend an extra 20 to 30 mins taking the lock carrier off the front end because;

Chances are the radiator will be rotten and leaky requiring replacement, they are relatively cheap to buy by the way.

and

It helps enormously with the belt tensioning procedure. The procedure can take a fair few trial and error attempts to get it '****-on'. With it being a 53 plate at least you have a friction tensioner only and not one of the pesky annoying dampers the early PD had, they can take a lot of attempts.

Of course the pro's can do these standing on their heads with one hand tied behind their backs and blindfolded but for the sake of a bit more dismantling it really is worth the extra hours work so you can properly see what you are doing. Also plan, whilst the cooling system is drained down for the waterpump and /or radiator replacement on replacing the thermostat and coolant temp sensor as these fail with alarming regularity.

Saying all that, these really are very easy belts to do.

Doctle Odd
26-02-2015, 09:27 AM
^^He's Right^^

Taking the lock carrier off will impress people too!

bk.bas99
26-02-2015, 12:13 PM
get a cheap vcds lead off ebay and run vcds lite to check you real coolant temp before starting. Replaced my rad and waterpump when doing the belts, then temp was all over the place and wouldn't get above 70. Had to waste all of the G12 coolant to replace the thermostat. Would have been much easier to do at same time. If you do need a thermostat don't buy a cheapo pattern, go to a VW main dealer..or you'll be changing it again soon!

bk.bas99
27-02-2015, 12:43 AM
Once complete check synch angle with you recently purchesed vcds lead, should be as close to zero as poss. -this will help!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bZj2yZyYzg

VW Jetta TDI engine timing belt replacement, see video desc for more details - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bhCRr-H2yw)

How to adjust camshaft timing on a TDI PD pumpe duse 1.9L engine (VW and Audi) - YouTube


(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAEmqvUpKEY)

s1paulj
28-02-2015, 11:14 AM
wow, those video are great. Bigger job than I anticipated, but doesn't look too complicated. Looks like I need the special tool to lock the crank off. Can you get them on e bay etc or is that a VW job?
Also I've got a ODB reader, can I get the timing figures from that or do I need to get a VCDS cable too, if any recomednations as to which one?

s1paulj
28-02-2015, 12:41 PM
GSF have a discount weekend on, so going to order the timing belt kit and water pump. The belt, they stock Dayco (mentioned as a good brand) INA or PremPremium. For the pump thry have Vetech or Premium. Recomednations?

Doctle Odd
28-02-2015, 03:18 PM
Genuine or Gates pump. The locking tools are on ebay or local factors cost about 15.00

caldirun
01-03-2015, 05:56 PM
wow, those video are great. Bigger job than I anticipated, but doesn't look too complicated. Looks like I need the special tool to lock the crank off. Can you get them on e bay etc or is that a VW job?
Also I've got a ODB reader, can I get the timing figures from that or do I need to get a VCDS cable too, if any recomednations as to which one?

Dont worry re the sync angle, if you do the job correctly, i.e. NO Tipex, the timing will be back to factory setting.

bk.bas99
01-03-2015, 06:38 PM
If your going to the effort of doing it I wouldn't bother saving a few quid on the bits, go premium. I think you can buy it as a whole kit including the waterpump anyway? If you order stuff online for GSF (but collect in branch) it usually comes up with a discount voucher of 20% service items. Online prices are always cheaper then their' in branch prices', but you just pay online then go pick up...

..as for VCDS lead, this one is same as mine. There lots you can't do with the shareware version and it only works on cars upto B5/5.5 (3A/3B) (mine is one of last B5.5 2005 highline and it works fine), but you can still see all of the measuring blocks and clear any fault codes. Invaluable it has been!

USB OBD2 II KKL ECU DIAGNOSTIC CABLE LEAD FD232B chip compatible with VCDS-LITE | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-FD232B-chip-compatible-with-VCDS-LITE-/330752513588?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d0262d634)