Hardwire 5 volt In-Car Camera

[derekjspence]

Hi all

A bit of a newbie here so apologies if this has been posted and answered before.

I have an in-car camera (NextBase 402G Professional, Nextbase UK - Nextbase In Car Camera (http://www.nextbase.co.uk/products/iN%252dCAR-CAM%E2%84%A2-402%252dG-Professional.html)) and I am looking for advice on hardwiring this to the fuse box of my 2013 A4 saloon.
The camera is charged via a 5Vdc cable. The cable in the box has a lighter socket plug with an integrated 12Vdc x 5Vdc converter (as the camera charges on 5Vdc).
I don't like the idea of permanently having cables running exposed inside the car and don't want to use the lighter socket in the centr consol.
I am looking to mount the camera as discretely behind the rear view mirror.
Ideally, I would like to hook up the charging cable to a slot on the fuse box and route the cable through the A-Pilar and along the top of the windscreen bafore appearing at the rear view mirror (as discretely as possible).

Can anyone advise on the best way to achieve this.
What equipment will I need (please supply links to products).
How do I open panels (such as the A-Pilar cover) without causing damage (especially to the airbag).
What fuse slot should I use (with explaination).

Any feedback on this would be fantastic.

Many thanks in advance.
Derek

[M1tchy]

Been asked and answered loads of times mate. Try the search function on the forum and you should get loads of topics that answer all your questions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[derekjspence]

M1tchy

Thanks for the reply. I am aware of a number of posts about hardwiring, I just haven't found anything of great help. It's not easy to search forums for specific threads (usually get over 50 pages, 90% of threads have nothing to do with the topic searched).
I am certainly not wanting others to do the ground work for me, just hoped someone could give a link to the best thread.

I have found the following product and looking for opinion on it (Dashcam Installation Kit - 5-Volt USB Plug - ATO Fuse - The Dashcam Store (http://thedashcamstore.com/dashcam-installation-kit-5-volt-usb-plug-ato-fuse/)). Basically, if I bought this, what fuse slot should I use (switched) and on what side of the car (drivers/passengers). What type of tap will I require (ATO, Mini, Micro)?

I should be able to figure it out from there.

Thanks again.

[Tabletski]

Firstly you need a multimeter.
Then check the size of an existing fuse. It should be obvious.
Search google for car fuse tap and you will see there are different sizes. I 'think' Audi use standard size.
Drivers side probably best tho up to you where you want to mount it.

The micro, mini part if your question I think refers to the input on the camera. I have found most use the mini usb rather than the standard phone micro style on most Android phones.
Find a fuse spare empty socket and test it if live with ignition on, and off with ignition off. I am reliably informed there should be at least 2 fuses spare dependant on vehicle. EG. rear wash wipe if you have saloon.
The earth fits on a bolt near the fuses.

You need a plastic trim removal tool like a wide blade screwdriver but you may find the wire can be pushed into the gap rather than remove the trim.
I have been going to hardwire my camera but am frustrated at where I want it to sit. Behind the mirror stops the auto dim working and elsewhere is not to my liking for a permanent fixing.
I currently have a sun visor mount which is just ok to my thinking but results in wire hanging down from the windscreen pillar.
Image link -
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v2/732184418_1/1-4-Screw-Car-SunShade-Shield-Visor-Board-Clip-Camera-Mount-Holder-For-X1000-X3000-027.jpg

One final point. If you are unsure of what you are doing a car electrician will install it professionally for you correctly wired and wires routed to avoid any issues. My local auto electrician charges £60 an hour and it won't take that to fit and route the wire.

[derekjspence]

Tabletski

Thanks for the reply. Makes sense indeed. The micro/mini part of my question referred to the size of fuse required. I have looked at some images on google and looks like the A4 mostly has standard size and a few mini. The camera I have uses a mini USB connection.
If you click on the link on my last post, you will see the item I have has an integrated tap. My assumption on this is that the fuse already on this is to protect the converter. Would I be right in saying that, if I use a spare fuse slot, I will not need to install a second fuse into the tap? On the other side of that, if I install the tap into an already occupied slot, I would have to place the existing fuse into the second slot on the tap? (really sorry for the wording on these questions).

I will have to play around with the positioning of the camera as it is quite big. If I mount it behind the RVM, it will have to be to the drivers side to avoid blocking the auto-dim sensor (which I assume is the wee gadget on the forward facing, passenger side of the RVM). By law, I cannot have the camera obstruct any area covered by the sweep of the wipers so may be a bit of trial and error in finding the optimum position.

I'll try and get a trim remover on amazon, im sure they're not too expensive.

Regards

[Tabletski]

Finding a fuse slot is I think the main issue. If you use an existing fuse then this device should be a fuse for the device. If It's not then you should always fit a fuse for any device added to the car.
I was a bit suspicious of using an existing fuse as in the past have set a clock on fire by pushing a wire into the live side and not fusing the wire.

I think in photo 3 of the power tap you can see the grey 5 amp fuse this will cover the device.

If you think about it. The tap is just a professional way of stuffing a wire into the fuse connector and forcing the fuse back in. That's how us unprofessional folk used to do it.
A trim removal kit can be had from euro parts Trim Tools (http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/trim-tools) they are not expensive and very handy for odd jobs and perform better and don't damage trim like screwdrivers and steel rulers.
As it happens there is a sensor on the rvm on the drivers side of my car a tiny light sensor which was blocked by my camera. On the passenger side I cannot see the settings menu from the drivers seat so this was irritating. The visor mount was a compromise.

Have you tried the camera using a suction mount to test the field if view. This should allow you to try different positions?

[derekjspence]

I have found a kit of trim removal tools for very little money on amazon. It's listed as a best buy so surely cant be bad. I'll see how I get on with that.

Out of interest, should it be marked on the fuse box which slot the rear wiper fuse would be and would this be? I could be wrong here but I believe that even redundant circuits have a fuse in place.

I am hoping that, when I get all set up, I won't need to play with settings on the camera. In theory, I will have it set up so it records when the ignition is switched until (say) 30mins after switched off (using the camera's internal bettery for the extra time).

I haven't done a dry run with the suction mount as yet. The mount that came in the box would leave the camera very low in my field of view so I ordered a shorter mount. I will certainly perform a dry run before attempting the hard wire just to make sure I am not doubling the work and risking the panels.

Regards

[derekjspence]

A further quesion on this post. What way around is the correct way to install a fuse tap? If anyone has a difinitive answer to this, I'd be interested to read.

[Tabletski]

I'm looking at my fuse tap now. Considering its construction and my proposed route out the fuse box to behind the dash it looks to be wired left to right.
Obviously if installed upside down it would be the other way.
I am not going to assume but I would think that the left side of the fuse is live and right is to the accessories. I will test it later if I can find my probe tester.