Turbo Failure, now locked engine - please help....

[xouser8334]

Hi All.
I have an AJM Engined 1900TDI Audi A4 B5 Avant.
the turbo went, gave the usual "no Power" and "white smoke". (apparently - all will be revealed at the bottom of this post)
I removed the inlet pipes at the top of the engine and cleaned the out with carb cleaner. removed the inlet manifold / egr valve and decoked it, and cleaned it out again with carb cleaner - and let everything dry off for 48hrs in the scorching sun! :-).
Basically.... the engine ran with a duff turbo, but smoked like mad!.
so...
I filled the engine with oil.
fitted a GOOD second hand turbo (with new gaskets), refitted all pipes and plastic intake pipes.
and fired it up...
it ran ok for about 10secs, then revved the nuts off itself. - I had to put it in gear to stall the engine as it kept running and revving without the key.
I instantly realised that the engine began running on engine oil from somewhere...
then it sank in..... I didn't remove the intercooler and make sure it was clean of oil..
The engine is now Hydro-Locked but not seized (it will rock backwards and forwards but not enough to turn over and start up.
so... I gave up and left it until I calmed down.

Question...
Is it a case of:-
removing glow plugs and draining out any oil that has locked the cylinders
remove Intercooler and pipes and clean out and let it drain for a long while.
rebuild and test again..

or...
have i goosed the engine for good - (opinions)

I'm looking forward to some "optimism" here guys.... if you think "get a new engine" please tell me softly!

P.S. I have just bought the car for £200 with new alloys on it and only planned on running it around with the dogs in the back... I can keep my 2011 A4 nice and clean..

Thanks Guys.

[zollaf]

remove the plugs, spin it over to get rid of the oil, disconnect the boost pipe from the intercooler and see what happens. chances are you might have bent a rod, might not, time will tell.

[xouser8334]

Many Thanks Zollaf,
I guess it depends "how bent" the rod is, to "how Long" i can get from the engine.
I need to get about 500miles out of her before I strip the block and replace the rod....
or... are these relatively a simple swap.... (can be done with engine in situ and done from the bottom) - or is it an engine out, new rod and shells?

Cheers,

[zollaf]

head off sump off, rod and piston out, new one in, rebuild. perfectly possible in situ. a bent rod will last about 50 miles. thats how long the last one lasted that got bent when the lady drove through some water. it got tow started by a tractor and was fine for 49 miles, then the rod came out the block at 50. that cost her a new engine rather than just a new rod.

[xouser8334]

hmmmm.. I like he idea or rebuilding while in situ because I dont have the engine hoist or something to lift the block out of the car.. been a while since I was a VAG Dealers spanner monkey but still enjoy doing major work when I have the time and equioment... I work in IT now... I thought I saw the best thing to do for work in life... but now I think I was wrong.
without a strip down how can I tell if I have a bent rod? I'm also thinking that the hydro'd cylinder is no.1 because the cam timing is just before TDC..

[zollaf]

a compression test would tell, or remove the injectors and use a thin piece of stiff wire to measure the gap from somwhere to the top of the piston at tdc and do this for all 4 pistons. if one reading is much more then thats a bent rod it is. thing is, it will run with a kinked rod, but thats a weakend rod and one that will soon fail.

[xouser8334]

thanks.. I will compression test it on sunday and do the measurement technique too... many thanks.

[jbh325i]

Being the pd engine if you got it running with a bent rod I would be really surprised if it got 50 mile before it self destructs..

as said get the oil out it you could be lucky and it might not have done damage. the cranks are pretty weak on the PD engine ( IMO )
so I would drop the sump and shine a torch in. this will let you see if there's any damage to the crank and the rods

Ive seen 2 M20 B25 BMW engines being hydrolocked one ran again and is still running without a rebuild. the other one had its bottom end made into Chinese toasters

[Alan02]

Re: Intercooler, I would get it replaced if Turbo broke up, at the least I would get it chemically cleaned out. Usually Radiator repair companies do this also.....provided engine isnt goosed! Good Luck!

[xouser8334]

I was thinking of sending the intercooler somewhere... it didnt cross my mind to go to a single standard car radiator repairer.. hope there is one in Derby or close by that can do it... surprising what buying a cheap car can turn into. .... Not cheap.. but fun and pleasing to repair. ..

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[xouser8334]

guys.... I didnt have time to compression test it... I went to Italy for a few days.. gonna comp test it and bore depth measure it too.
next week!
If I rebuild the engine.. can I up the turbo to give more grunt with out a remap? can I fit a new turbo cart instead of the GT1749V with reasonable performance without a map.
I think I will reshell the bottom end and replace any bent con rods deglaze the bores... (head gasket, timing belts etc.)
ALSO... are any unusual tools required to do the strip and rebuild... torx /rib sockets /unusually long allen keys or star drivers..
I have most of my tools but will buy things I may need in advance.
i dont want to start only to find I'm a t50 or something short!

eThanks for your replies chaps. and yes... I know a two post car lift would be brilliant... but lack of space / funds say no!! :-)
I will be raising it off the floor by two feet on a brick ramp I built for working on things at home!

[xouser8334]

So... I decided to build the car slowly as I am not in a rush for it... it may not be an completely good use of time, bu I thought I would paint the cambelt covers in silver.... although pointless, I thought it looked cleaner.... comments and opinions are opinions.. but help yourself....... oh.. new water pump and gates timing belt kit with new bolts and pulleys/tensioners etc.
Also new calipers to the rear with disks and pads fitted today too... shoukd be MOTABLE soon...

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