A4 TDI Non start

[Dylan323]

I have aA4 TDI that does not start.
It reads fault codes
01268 - Quantity Adjuster (N146)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01441 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
30-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
00546 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
49-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
01376 - Engine Speed Signal for Injection Pump
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
01126 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
16-00 - Please Register/Activate

Also the wires out the back of the pump have the insulation missing, it looks like it may have melted off.

Any help would be really appreciated

[zollaf]

what engine code ?

[Dylan323]

059-907-401-AKE.LBL


I think thats it?

[adamss24]

Dead vp44 injector pump ! You need to get in touch with diesel bob for a rebuild !

[Dylan323]

Cheers, I'll do that.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

If you are meaning the wires in the harness are melted,you obviously need to sort that too - or Diesel Bob will be able to afford a great holiday this year!

[Dylan323]

Its the wires that come down from the pump ecu to what I think is the advance solenoid. I will check tonight to see how far down they are melted. Could these wires be the problem?
I have fuel going up to my injectors.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Yes, they will be causing the fault code(s).

However, as Adamss24 said, you still need to get the pump fixed - why did the wires melt? Probably due to a faulty solenoid.
The ECU may also be shot - it will get tested when you send it to be fixed

If you are getting the pump fixed, Diesel Bob is the man to go to.

[Dylan323]

I never sent the pump for repair, the car is just not worth the cost. I have the chance of a second hand pump from a running car.
Will I be ok fitting that or are they matched to the car?

[Dylan323]

Fitted second hand pump, plenty diesel getting to pump and seems to be plenty getting to injectors. Still no start. No smoke from exhaust even. The car the pump came off was running

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Did you time the pump properly?

One of the measuring blocks (I can't remember which one at the moment) in VCDS gives the timing for the last start. Check that is is within spec, if not set the timing again.

Once it is running, reset the timing with VCDS properly

[ametlib]

Do the dead pump and the new one have the same nr.?

[adamss24]

Unfortunately it will need codding to your engine ECU and instrument cluster, unless you get the key chip, ECU and instrument cluster from the pump's donor car ! Alternatively you can code the "new" pump to the ECU/Immo with full VCDS and you will need the pin code for your instrument cluster/immobiliser. However, if the pump is just immobilised then it should start and then dye after 1 sec. As ametlib mentioned you need to make sure the pumps have the same part numbers, early are immo3 non Can Bus, later are immo3 AND Can Bus... Also instrument clusters are either VDO or Bosch RB0/RB4 with encripted memory so not many cheap tools will pull the SEED code (SKC). You could try Super Vag tool but- talking from experience- they do brick instrument clusters ! Ask me how i Know...

[HAWKS]

Diesel Bobs...
In Latham Lancs....

[Dylan323]

Did you time the pump properly?

One of the measuring blocks (I can't remember which one at the moment) in VCDS gives the timing for the last start. Check that is is within spec, if not set the timing again.

Once it is running, reset the timing with VCDS properly

I thought I had but now I'm not so sure. The car has never started since the pump was fitted so how could I check this?

[Dylan323]

Do the dead pump and the new one have the same nr.?

I think so they came off care with same engine code. Which number is the nr.?

[adamss24]

The part number is on the side of the pump by the EGR valve port, it's stamped on a flat, machined area of the pump- will be a little difficult to read if dirty- should have a part number starting with 047xxx xxx A/E/K/L etc.
If the pump came of a running car then you need someone to code it to your ECU and immobiliser or you can get the immo chip and donor's ECU and it will start IF timed properly !

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Apologies, I thought that you had coded the pump.
Once you have coded everything as Adamss24 explained, you can then try and start it.

If it starts and then stops and you have a flashing glow plug light then go to Instruments block in VCDS and check for immobiliser fault codes. Fix any fault here first.

If it doesn't start but turns over ok, go to engine block 19 and look at the first two columns.
Block 19 is a record of the last start (or attempt at start)

The first column is the start RPM (on the starter motor), if this is very low it won't start - I don't know what very low is, but if this is suspected I can check both of my cars for comparison.
The next column is pump timing at start. This should be between 2.0 ATDC to 4.7 BTDC. If it is outside this, adjust the timing and try again.

You must not let the battery voltage drop too far, or you will have problems. The start diagnostic drops out at 10.8V.

Once the car is running, let it get to operating temperature and then check the timing with the VCDS timing graph and set it correctly.

Block 18 gives info on the pump. IIRC, not everything is there on VCDS but basically the last two column should be zeros.

[Dylan323]

Firstly big thank you for all the help so far!! :-)
I am on the case with coding the pump, I am trying to find the immobilizer pin, may have to go to Audi dealer tomorrow.
Battery is on charge for now but I will post up what I find once I get back out to it

[ametlib]

Firstly big thank you for all the help so far!! :-)
I am on the case with coding the pump, I am trying to find the immobilizer pin, may have to go to Audi dealer tomorrow.
Battery is on charge for now but I will post up what I find once I get back out to it

Not sure that the dealer will ( or can ) give you the pin. First check the pump nr. ( 059xxx xxx L or E)
If the last letter is an E , you have a plug and play pump, no pin needed. If the last letter is an L , you'll need the pin.
Even if you have an L pump, your car will start and run for a few seconds WITHOUT coding, if everything else is OK.
It's also a good idea to check the insulation on the wires to the quantity adjuster on the new pump. ( the insulation on theese wires is rubbish and in
my opinion maybe the main reason theese pumps die)

[ametlib]

Unfortunately it will need codding to your engine ECU and instrument cluster, unless you get the key chip, ECU and instrument cluster from the pump's donor car ! Alternatively you can code the "new" pump to the ECU/Immo with full VCDS and you will need the pin code for your instrument cluster/immobiliser. However, if the pump is just immobilised then it should start and then dye after 1 sec. As ametlib mentioned you need to make sure the pumps have the same part numbers, early are immo3 non Can Bus, later are immo3 AND Can Bus... Also instrument clusters are either VDO or Bosch RB0/RB4 with encripted memory so not many cheap tools will pull the SEED code (SKC). You could try Super Vag tool but- talking from experience- they do brick instrument clusters ! Ask me how i Know...

You didn't by any change choose a RB4 cluster from the menu, when the car actually had a RBx cluster, and when you tried to write, 3 letters popped up in the dash ? ........ (DEF ;))

[adamss24]

You didn't by any change choose a RB4 cluster from the menu, when the car actually had a RBx cluster, and when you tried to write, 3 letters popped up in the dash ? ........ (DEF ;))
That's exactly what it happened ! Funny they won't work after that and even with the right PIN/Seed Key they won't code to the ECU and pump...

[Dylan323]

Sorry guys, don't understand what you mean by the last two posts.
Can not see the part number on the new pump, might have to take it off again to have a look, job for tomorrow.
I get onto measuring blocks 18 and 19, here is what I got
018
Injection pump supply voltage 13.00v
supply voltage from ecm 13.07v
Pump infos See label file 00000000
Eng speed sensor see label file 0000
019
Start IQ (in memory) - in case engine does not start 0/min
Actual start of inj 2*B-4.7*atdc 0.2 BTDC
Qtdy ady valve act time 0.0CF ....... this dis show a value when I turned engine over
Fuel Temp -90 C

[ametlib]

Fuel temp 90 C ? Been cranking for a while ?? not sure about this, but I have a feeling that measuring blocks gr. 18, pump label file, would have shown anything else than zero's ( all zeros indicates all ok ) if there was an immo problem?
Does the immo light in the dash go off ? Last, theese pumps can be a nightmare to bleed, sure you have bled it properly ?

[Dylan323]

Fuel temp 90 C ? Been cranking for a while ?? not sure about this, but I have a feeling that measuring blocks gr. 18, pump label file, would have shown anything else than zero's ( all zeros indicates all ok ) if there was an immo problem?
Does the immo light in the dash go off ? Last, theese pumps can be a nightmare to bleed, sure you have bled it properly ?

Yes fuel temp a bit dubious.
The Immo light goes on then off no problem
I also have a fault code 01318

[ametlib]

I don't think 01318 is immo related , maybe faulty pump ecu or comm. error, google it. What happens if you erase it, does it come back ?
Since you have no immo code ( and that said after cranking the fuel temp up to 90 C !!!:biglaugh:) lets ( at least for now) assume that both the IP's are E pumps and immo is not the problem here.
If the 01318 code don't come back, it's from the old IP with a short in the QA circuit. Then your problem is to bleed the pump properly.
I had exactly the same problem myself, just a few weeks ago. Theese pumps are always hard to bleed, but that one was a real nut.I finally got it running by hanging a clear bottle from the bonnet lock, and then connected the
fuel hose to it and filled it up with diesel. Then open two of the injector pipes and cranked till it started.

[Dylan323]

I don't think 01318 is immo related , maybe faulty pump ecu or comm. error, google it. What happens if you erase it, does it come back ?
Since you have no immo code ( and that said after cranking the fuel temp up to 90 C !!!:biglaugh:) lets ( at least for now) assume that both the IP's are E pumps and immo is not the problem here.
If the 01318 code don't come back, it's from the old IP with a short in the QA circuit. Then your problem is to bleed the pump properly.
I had exactly the same problem myself, just a few weeks ago. Theese pumps are always hard to bleed, but that one was a real nut.I finally got it running by hanging a clear bottle from the bonnet lock, and then connected the
fuel hose to it and filled it up with diesel. Then open two of the injector pipes and cranked till it started.

Hi, when I clear the code it comes back almost immediately.
I am getting a decent amount of diesel out of the injector pipes but no start yet.
I can not get vcds to read the rpm when turning over I am still not sure it's turning fast enough.

[ametlib]

The code is your problem then. If I should guess ( and I will ;) ) the old pump had no immobilizer, but the new one have...and the ECU isn't expecting to meet an immo at the other end of the wireing...
I could be wrong, but I really believe the next step is to check the pump numbers. (059 xxx xxx L ) You can't see it with one of those small mirrors on a stick and a torchlight ?
You will get diesel out of the injector pipes even when the pump isn't connected to the harness, but no pressure to pop up an injector.....
BTW Whats the nr. on the old pump ? E ?

[Dylan323]

The code is your problem then. If I should guess ( and I will ;) ) the old pump had no immobilizer, but the new one have...and the ECU isn't expecting to meet an immo at the other end of the wireing...
I could be wrong, but I really believe the next step is to check the pump numbers. (059 xxx xxx L ) You can't see it with one of those small mirrors on a stick and a torchlight ?
You will get diesel out of the injector pipes even when the pump isn't connected to the harness, but no pressure to pop up an injector.....
BTW Whats the nr. on the old pump ? E ?


I have looked at the new pump and there are no markings.. seems strange?
the number on the old pump is 059 130 106A

[ametlib]

Year 98-00, manual tranny, engine code AFB ? Your old pump have no immobilizer, makes things a little easier.
About the donor car for the "new" pump, happen to know: year ? type of tranny m/a ? engine code ?
No marking on the new pump ? could be a refurbished with a missing sticker....?
I guess the 01318 code means, wrong pump, or new pump is bad also ( again, check the insulation at the 4 wires going from the pump-ecu to advance piston/ quantity adjuster) , or
the new pump is not properly connected/ bad wireing in the harness..

[Dylan323]

Year 98-00, manual tranny, engine code AFB ? Your old pump have no immobilizer, makes things a little easier.
About the donor car for the "new" pump, happen to know: year ? type of tranny m/a ? engine code ?
No marking on the new pump ? could be a refurbished with a missing sticker....?
I guess the 01318 code means, wrong pump, or new pump is bad also ( again, check the insulation at the 4 wires going from the pump-ecu to advance piston/ quantity adjuster) , or
the new pump is not properly connected/ bad wireing in the harness..

Thanks again, checked the wiring on the pump, it is ok.
The donor car, same engine code but it is a tiptronic, should that make a difference?
I got a load of zeros on measuring block 018, so I assumed that made the comms to the pump ok?

[ametlib]

Tiptronic means your new pump have the ending letter D, while your old have an A. If your car should start with an D pump, I don't know and your guess will be just as good as mine...
What I know is your car won't start as long as the ecu throwes a 01318 code and your problem is not immo related ( none of theese pumps have immobilizer)
You have checked the connection to the pump ?

[Dylan323]

Tiptronic means your new pump have the ending letter D, while your old have an A. If your car should start with an D pump, I don't know and your guess will be just as good as mine...
What I know is your car won't start as long as the ecu throwes a 01318 code and your problem is not immo related ( none of theese pumps have immobilizer)
You have checked the connection to the pump ?

Cheers again, I guess my next job is to do a proper check of all the wiring from ECU to pump.

[ametlib]

Maybe a better use of time to borrow the ECU from the same car your new pump came from. Pretty sure your car have immo 2, meaning you can just read and save in adaptations ( ch. 00 )
I wouldn't be too surprised if that would make your car start and running.. ( If that ECU can be recoded to a manual transmission, or not, is a different question...;))

[Dylan323]

Hi again, unable to get the ecu from the donor car but managed to get another pump with same number as one that came off the car. Got it installed and no fault codes now and measuring block 018 is all zeros.
Diesel coming up to injectors but still no start.

[ametlib]

Hi.
Since you got rid of the code things looks a bit better now. If your new pump is ok, the problem is the pump timing or ( more likely) bleeding . If the pump timing is a bit out, 10-15 degrees too advanced will still make it start,
10-15 degrees too retarded will make some nice smoke....
If you got no smoke, look at my post 26. take off the fuel hose at the filter and make arrangements to connect it to a clear bottle with it's bottom cut off.
Hang it up in the bonnet lock and fill it up with clean diesel. Then use a vacuumpump to suck diesel into the filter, and (quick) blind the filter hose connection.
Loosen 2 of the injector pipes and crank till it starts ( yes it will start on only 4 cyl ) Watch the fuel level in the bottle, it will be empty within seconds, after the engine starts!
Stop the engine immidiatly when the bottle is empty. Then tighten the injector pipes and reconnect the fuel hose to the filter ( be quick or the fuel drains back to the tank)
Sounds easy ?:D

[Dylan323]

Thanks for that, I spent the afternoon checking the timing again, it was ok so I am onto bleeding, thanks for the tip on bleeding, I will try that next.

[Dylan323]

Great news,
Managed to get back onto it this morning again and its running. Still got to check the pump timing on 018 but I'll get round to that later.
Thanks again for all your help, the live of my old quattro is extended again!!!
:-)