1.9 sharan pd 115 flywheel and bits

[jas95aero]

Hi guys as title i got a 2000 mk2 6spd 115 pd 1.9tdi (auy i think) sharan its got nearly 140k on the clock

lately its been making a ratting sound on start up grunting on low revs and on acceleration bit like if you had a sports box on. First i thought a mount might have gone hence the shaking and a leaking split pipe for the sound but after taking the bottom try off all i found was a slight oil leak by the oil filter.

The engine does rock a bit when idle so i'm assuming this is the dmf going and the rattling is coming from that too? cant see any play in the mounts, bottom look fairly new also does far side mount.

The timing belt is not quite due yet

The clutch does rattle between engaged and disengaged prob the thrust bearing going? also there is some travel on the peddle between top position and actually starting to push the clutch(have tried pressure bleeding)

So question is dmf or smf i notice some talk about noise on 6 speed is it really that bad?

From what i can see just quick search you can get smf kit and clutch and slave for less then the dmf.

I'm quite an able diyer but not done clutch flywheel before, can this be done with engine in car.

Now as i'm doing this is it worth doing timing belt too (not really need doing for about another 10k)

Also like to add i tow with caravan too so whats suitable dmf/smf

(Also got problems with brakes but that's another day)

thanks

[jas95aero]

Just to add the tensioner moves a a bit for the drive belt i don't think this is faulty but will this contribute to the rocking, also will a dead cat make the "performance" sound, can only really hear it inside the car and it does sound like a sports exhaust under acceleration and if going over bump is stops a bit.

MAF was replaced last year genuine bosch and egr and inlet have all been cleaned out last year too.

TBH it started to make the noise after i changed front struts but i only get movement if i jack car up and thats the space between the top mount and bush?( drop links and tie rods also replaced) dont know if its linked or just coincidence

[Ed740i]

sounds like a dead cat, get under it wrap a cloth round your hand and bash the cat see if it rattles.
not sure what dmf or smf is ? sorry im crap with acronyms :/
its pretty easy to drop the engine on these so if your doing the clutch and the timing belt you mas as well just drop it out and make it really easy :)
i had the sharan wobble pretty bad and after doing all the things people said and still being there i changed the gearbox mount and da daaa it was gone
good luck :)

[jas95aero]

Ok I got a cat anyway so might change that at weekend , the knocking default comes from engine but maybe that's back pressure, on another note

After changing front struts with new top mounts drop link ball joint etc I get a knocking from drivers side when I jack the car up I can quite easily lift the strut about 10cm, I did notice the new strut was shorter but all the fixing points are the same and the only bit that is shorter is the bit below where the clamp is on the strut. Do I just need to some how tighten the top nut more or is there spaces I need to fit? I'm not sure if the top plate is hitting the tray around the engine bay as its very snug both sides

[Ed740i]

sounds like the nut that holds the top plate on the spring wound loose as you tightend the top nut after refitting the shock, leave the car on the ground, take the nut from the top of the shock under the hood then check the nut that holds the top plate down.

[bmwdumptruck]

In no particular order.

the belt tensioner is only about £40 and 3 bolts, so if you suspect it's bouncing too much just change it.

Id stick to DMF, I did when I did mine. It's there for a reason, and if its been good for 140k where's the problem. Get an OEM kit from GSF and a new concentric slave cylinder as well. I'd also suggest a new crank oil seal while its apart for what they cost. I tow with mine, no issues so far, although needing to do mine at 100k may have been partly to do with towing.

Might be worth getting the box checked out whilst its out. Mine was fine, but its better now its been reshimmed as he put it back together.

Also check for play in the output spline on the OS drive output shaft and stub axle. Mine needed doing, although I got away with a good second hand stub axle for now. At least this can be done in situ.

Rear box mount had separated on mine, but the guy I got the stub axle from had a good one for not much.

Are you getting 'limp home' issues? We had a misfire recently, engine ran quite rough sometimes. Needed new injector loom. Code read says no1 injector fault.

[jas95aero]

ok thanks for the replies and info, im going to change the cat at the weekend only cost 35 and it does smell a bit, i'll check the securing nut too but what it seems like there is a big space between the top plate and the rubber bush hence why i can lift it so easy when car is jacked up as its not actually touching the plate. this wouldnt be a problem with the car down as it should never get that high and resting on the sprring but i dont think its right and i know i did the nut up the only thing that is a bugger is doing the very top nut the holds the very top plate on.
Not had any codes or limp home except for prob 2 times if booted when cold went into limp but almost seemed like it was using too must boost, switch off and on and fine but like i said only done this twice in 6 months

Think ill get a new drive belt and tensioner that can be next weeks job. i'll double check the bottom mount when doing the cat

Im also having problems with the brakes i don't think the back are working very well i have changed the pads and made sure the callipers move but seems to be very heavy front breaking to the point where the tyres are wearing very quickly The brake pedal at first seems fairly solid but if i leave my foot it will depress almost all of the way.

is there a weight control valve like you sometimes have on vans i.e more weight more brakes to rear

I drive a transporter for work and tho a few years newer the pedal does not depress like this and feel firm when braking, checked vac hoses and grommet to servo the only thing that seems quite loose is where the pipe enters the vacuum pump but it does not sound like it leaks. only thing i cant think is either master cylinder (expensive) or vacuum pump (2nd hand?)/vacuum pump grommet?

Could it be the rear callipers are leaking and just need the new seal kit?

Also tried pressure bleeding no air seems to come out

[bmwdumptruck]

is there a weight control valve like you sometimes have on vans i.e more weight more brakes to rear

I drive a transporter for work and tho a few years newer the pedal does not depress like this and feel firm when braking, checked vac hoses and grommet to servo the only thing that seems quite loose is where the pipe enters the vacuum pump but it does not sound like it leaks. only thing i cant think is either master cylinder (expensive) or vacuum pump (2nd hand?)/vacuum pump grommet?

Could it be the rear callipers are leaking and just need the new seal kit?

Also tried pressure bleeding no air seems to come out

More than likely there will be a weight valve as you call it. Try loading the car with heavy stuff and test drive, I know in my van I can feel the difference. These should be checked at mot as well, the tester should look for the valve moving as he moves the lever as such.

As for Vacuum, check the vacuum pipe just right of the pump. There's a t piece. The pipe off this is known to split, just where it widens to go over the fittting. It kind of sits behind the fuel filter from memory, so not very easy to see, or get at. Mine did it a few years ago. It means that continued use of the brakes, especially at low engine speeds, looses servo assistance.

With the engine off and car stationary, foot on pedal hard. If it slowly goes to the floor its more than likely the master cylnder. (I have a suspision mines on its way out!!)

My latest mot threw up a warning for rear calipers. Even with them all serviced up and new(ish) pads they only just passed the handbrake test. Tester did say they are prone to wearing the internal linkages, and the only cure in his opinion is new calipers :aargh4: If yours were leaking you'd know all about it!!

[jas95aero]

So.....
Replaced cat can't see any difference maybe couple extra mpg.

Checked bottom engine mount again looks fairly new same as top os mount

Still tapping when cold/ hard acceleration I'm assuming this is a sticking hydraulic valve lifter? I did an engine flush and oil filter + pd oil see if it gets any better.

Air filter changes checked turbo hoses

Suspect drive belt tensioner is going so ordered belt and tensioner

New vacuum hose fitted to servo

New pads discs to rear clean caliper followers checked movement all fine, vacuum pump changed

Pressure brake bleed, still brakes are crap pedal almost goes to floor of kept foot on, going to get another servo mc cylinder (used from newer car) can't think of anything else this could be?