Audi V6 TDi 2.7 & 3.0 Inlet Manifold, Swirl Flap Repair Kit.

[tonyandkaty]

Just wanted to let everyone know if you have not seen it already this kit on Ebay to repair the Swirl flaps. I have just received the kit and it comes with a new and improved lever and also a new fitting if the ones on the car are worn also. Going to attempt to repair it over the weekend if the weather warms up a bit lol

This is a bargain at £21 if it saves buying a new swirl control motor
Audi V6 TDi 2.7 & 3.0 Inlet Manifold, Swirl Flap Repair Kit. | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160932861331)

[rafletcher]

Let us know how it goes - from the feedback they don't appear to have sold many, though the one is positive. Certainly cheaper than alternatives.

[tonyandkaty]

The people selling them also offer garage services at www.vagbolton.com (http://www.vagbolton.com) and I think they are new to selling these parts on Ebay will let everyone know how I get on with fitting this part when its not -4 outside lol. I have asked them for advice on fitting the new connector and not the actual arm as not sure what to remove lol

[gupsterg]

Good find :beerchug:... I'm thinking of buying and just placing in my mini parts dept in garage :Blush:...


I have asked them for advice on fitting the new connector and not the actual arm as not sure what to remove lol

View the areas in red boxes...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/SwirlFlapMotorLocation.jpg

Close shot of swirl motor from VDO site...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/NewswirlVDO.jpg

Item 1 in kit is the link arm between swirl motor and flaps in manifold...

Item 2 I'm guessing a new piece which the link arm attach to either renewed on swirl motor or the manifold...

Item 3 I'm guessing maybe locking item for item 2 as item 1 just clip on/off...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/Swirllinks-2.jpg

[sparker]

That is a good find.

That 1, 2, 3 is correct. The linkage 2, on the swirl flap gets lots play in it where attaches to the end of the unit as well as the ball joint itself. The reason I replaced the swirl flap units and not just the rods was because of all that play.


Should do the job just fine and save Audi owners a lot of £. If they get worn out like the original parts do, it's no big deal, just put on a new set.

Let us know how it goes. Only thing is how much of a fiddle it might be to remove parts 3 and 2 with the swirl flaps on the car.

[sparker]

Just to be clear. The part No.2 is fitted to the swirl flaps, it is the lever that turns the swirl flap rod. Clip 3 holds them on.

You will need to remove the two motors to get access to these. Don't know if there is room to remove the clips and extract these levers from the swirl flap housing with the swirl flaps fitted. Fingers crossed there is.

See thread 3.0 and 2.7ltr swirl flap fix (search) now under 'How to' heading

[gupsterg]

Found this visual aid...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/Swirlmotorampmanifold2.jpg

Red arrow highlight item 2 location and item 3 clip...

Link to sparkers guide.... VW AUDI Forum - VWAF (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?137123-Intake-Manifold-Replacement-and-Fix-2-7-TDi-3-0-TDi-V6-Engines)

[gupsterg]

OK peeps! http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/friends.gif

I PM tonyandkaty hoping they would have P/N for repair set as in ebay listing you can see a VW logo on top right of flipped sticker...

Alas the seller was cunning and sent tonyandkaty items unmarked/repackaged!

But there is the EPC :) ... the cunning white coat people have created the repair set!

P/N is 059 198 212

Description is "repair set for intake manifold"

Further info in EPC...

Slide rod intake manifold x 1
Follower x 1
Clip x 1

God knows when they slipped this in!

and the price at your local dealer £8.70 inc VAT WOW! does not cover it!!!

Much http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/respekt.gif to tonyandkaty for this great share!

I can now sleep safely knowing there is a cheap fix for the worn linkshttp://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/yahoo.gif!

Take that BMW! whilst their engines choke on the flaps let "Vorsprung durch technik" be the path!

This is the best Christmas pressie knowing you don't need to fork out ££££ for resolution of issue!

[sparker]

If these linkages can be fitted without removing the swirl flaps from the engine then this worrying problem will become the cheapest fix you can do. Second WOW!

[kite]

Great find *goes off to look at used cars*

....If only I was as smart as this bloody phone

[gupsterg]

The follower has slot... so I would assume you would make note of originals position when replacing...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/DSCF5028-copy_zpsd831c5e4.jpg

The view of the left (bank 1)...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/1_zpsb26b9e3f.jpg

Zoom...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/2_zpsbf7fca67.jpg

Besides the room issue the clip on this side needs to be pushed on from below...

The view of the right (bank 2)...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/3_zps9e318087.jpg

Zoom...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/2_7%203_0%20TDi%20stuff/4_zps078ab250.jpg

Clip can be fitted easier this side but the room/capability to fit seems issue IMO ...

[sparker]

Looks like a fiddle. Someone needs to try fitting these to find out if it is possible. Even if you could do one without removing a bank then it would be a time saver. Just no way of knowing from just looking at the pictures, (as clear as they are) if there is room.

Sure to find out soon from the thread starter.

The follower has slot... so I would assume you would make note of originals position when replacing...
Yes, the they would need to slide on to the shaft the same way as original.

Gup, just looking at the picture of the replacement connector rods, are they modified design? I believe they original socket joint on these has a small contact surface on the ball. These look more like the design of the ones I fitted. More surface area = less wear. Can cause a little more friction, mine where a little stiff to start and threw up a slightly different fault code. A bit of bedding in and they have been no problem.

[gupsterg]

I bought the parts to (i) view (ii) I didn't want to find out they've been dropped by the time I do/if need them... my swirl motors/manifolds are original (quickly touch lucky charms :Blush:)...

I agree the link arms when compared to my current differ... current are more of ring with follower showing through, the new ones are a socket and you can't see follower... as to which better :confused: ..

IMO the photos make it look roomier than the amount of room there is plus you have to go deep... I know I can't contort my fingers to do without removal :Blush2:...

The other issue I could see is if you dropped part you will need a grab tool or something to fish it out...

[sparker]

Looking like removing the swirl flaps is still the way to go.

If you see the way they wear, I believe these will last longer. The original parts in my opinion are a weak design.

When someone knows for sure the swirl flaps need to come off, I will add these parts to the repair option on the fix thread and write a quick text about fitting the new levers.

[tonyandkaty]

Happy New Year Everyone and all the best for 2013 with lots of Audi motoring :-)

Just a quick update I have not had chance to try fitting the new bottom lever to the swirl flap on the drivers side but I thought to myself with the new connectors on the actual arm that came in the pack wonder if it will fit and off I went to fit it and yes it fits even with a completely worn bottom connector because it seems to grip onto another area of this it does not fall straight off. So very happy now no fault light showing and swirl flaps working perfectly without having no replace the fiddly bottom connector

[gupsterg]

Great result :bigok:... super update :fing02:... Happy new year :beerchug: & Happy :drive:...

:You_Rock_for bringing this info here for us fellow V6 owners!

[Dpanic]

Happy New Year Everyone and all the best for 2013 with lots of Audi motoring :-)

Just a quick update I have not had chance to try fitting the new bottom lever to the swirl flap on the drivers side but I thought to myself with the new connectors on the actual arm that came in the pack wonder if it will fit and off I went to fit it and yes it fits even with a completely worn bottom connector because it seems to grip onto another area of this it does not fall straight off. So very happy now no fault light showing and swirl flaps working perfectly without having no replace the fiddly bottom connector


Good news, well done.

Question - did you change these in place or removed the motor's etc....

regards - rob

[tonyandkaty]

Hi Rob

I managed to change them in place its a bit fiddly trying to get the arm on the bottom connection with there being limited room, then I tried using a flat head screwdriver to get some pressure onto it and it then clipped into place. Hope this helps

[SRT88]

So finally I think it is best for everybody to change them ASAP as a preventive measure, isn't it? I will order a pair on Monday. Is there a different number for left and right or it is a kit?
Thanks

[gupsterg]

Same P/N for either side :) ... order x2 if doing both sides...

[Jim Boyle]

I had just applied my own fix to one side of a V6 when I saw the post on repair kits. Went back to Audi dealer who had quoted £1700 to fix problem and ordered two repair kits for £17.38, collected today. Logically only half of the wear will be on the replaceable parts, the other half on the manifold. In case anybody needs it, here is my fix: The problem is caused by the actuator reporting a larger (and possibly variable) angle of movement than when it was initially set up. I made a plate to fit on the front of the actuator with adjustable stops, which limit movement. I thought it may be difficult to set, but was right first time. No need to mount the actuator to test, just plug in. It can still drive the flaps, but I just wired the rod in the fully open position to one of the mountings. The light stayed out.
19056

[SRT88]

It is not quite clear to me what you have done...Could you please post several photos?
Thanks

[gupsterg]

Thanks for your solution, always great to see DIY fixes :) ...

You can buy new swirl flap motors separately...

VDO P/N enter car data in here Link:- online catalogue (http://www.vdo.com/generator/www/com/en/vdo/main/products_solutions/cars/replacement_parts/hidden/tecdoc_web_catalog_en.html) ...

Audi P/N 059 129 086 M (same part used both sides)... Audi Approx price £200 ...

Just seen a listing on ebay genuine Audi part £140 ...

IIRC there is/maybe a calibration which must be done when new ones are fitted...

[tonyandkaty]

Do Audi stock the swirl flap repair kit ??, as when I contacted my local dealer they said there is no repair kit and you can only buy the whole unit. So glad I found that repair kit for £21 and the light is still off even after a drive to scotland and back

[gupsterg]

Yep the P/N I've posted is what I gave to Audi main dealer parts dept and collected... will add copy of invoice here later this evening if that helps anyone get them :) ...

[tonyandkaty]

Maybe it was just the dealer trying to get as much money as possible and did not want anyone to know about the parts they probably fit when people come in for new swirl motors lol.

[gupsterg]

Here is my invoice peeps :) ...

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/gupsterg/Audi20_zps8bfc32e4.jpg

Sorry for delayed updated :Blush:...

[as400]

So in terms of preventative medicine, who should be seriously considering buying these kits and getting them fitted?...should I be worried?...car has just hit 100K and is running perfect, are there any symptoms prior to swirl flap failure?....went in for a major service with Audi a couple of months ago and nothing was mentioned?

[rafletcher]

No symptoms at all - and none after the "failure", just the emissions light on and (I beleive) the flaps not working at low revs as they would usually. I certainly couldn't feel a difference. Mine went at 62k. Audi dealer would only see it if there WAS the error and the light was up - no light, no error to scan for.

I'd also take issue with Jim B that "half the wear will be on the manifold". Dissimilar materials will wear at different rates, so there's no guarantee it's a 50/50 split, and may well mainly be on the levers "socket" part of the joint.

[gupsterg]

I thought I would add this here...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=2GpsQlZYki4

[allroadkev]

I fitted the repair kit to my q7, was able to do the right (looking into engine bay) one with manifold in situ, taking the motor off to get down there.
Lit worked a charm, no more light on dash, runs sweet.
Apart from a gearbox issue I have to deal with now (unrelated)

i sprayed wd40 into the sockets on the ends of the rods just in case.

[flickboyd]

Many many thanks for this thread! You've saved me a fortune. I changed the control arm only (passenger side bank) on my 3.0 tdi a5 and the fault light has gone :biglaugh: I was able to do this with everything in-situ in about 5 mins. Fingers crossed this works as a stable fix. As a word of caution though, the local ******* (Aberdeen) told me this kit would not fit my car as it wasn't listed against it in the part catalogue. I forced him to order the part and it seems to be perfect. Thanks again, this is what the Internet should be for!

[Manni Grewal]

BRILLIANT thread! Just what I needed. I purchased it from ebay: NEXT day delivery saved me going to the dealer :)

[Guest 2]

Urgi - Please follow the rules regarding advertising and the advice given in my PM.

If you post one more link to that eBay auction you will be banned.

The Staff have been made aware of this.

[urgi]

<remvoed>

[urgi]

<removed - MY PATIENCE HAS EXPIRED>

[Guest 2]

Goodbye.

[gupsterg]

I think this video is good for all

explanation why

Already posted in post 30 of this thread by me :) ...

I don't know why people would wanna get ripped off by the ebayers charging double what the dealer does...


Goodbye.


Go on Chris :buttkick:...:arms:...

[Nigma]

I've just managed to replace the Bank 2 linkage (I think - the passenger side) by using one of these kits. However, trying to do the same on the other side is proving difficult. The retaining clip that holds the ball joint onto the flap shaft is inverted (i.e. only accessible from below, unlike the passenger side). I think I can remove the current clip, but will be difficult to get the new one back one.
Has anyone done this with the manifold in situ?. (I've taken the motor off to get a little better access).

Thanks

I just want to thank the contributors of this thread. I think it has saved me a ton of money. Audi quoted me around £1400 to have both manifolds replaced, even though VCDS was only reporting an issue with bank2. They also stated the issue was with the flaps themselves, but for the time they had the car i'm sure they couldn't have inspected the flaps. Anyway, for £11 and a few mins of labour in removing the old linkage and replacing with the new version, the warning light is off, VCDS is not reporting an issue with bank2 - I get to keep the best part of £1400 :).

I now just need to figure out how to replace the same part on the other bank.

Thanks again.
N.

[Manni Grewal]

good work!

[sdavies007]

Having got myself all stressed about potentially losing alot of money here, i got a repair kit and i can confirm my flaps are flapping properly.

Bank 2, just replaced the arm itself as a first stab, took probably about two minutes from bonnet open to closed with a chunky screwdriver to ping the old arm off, and fit a new arm. Cleared my 87 'lower limit not reached' warnings in VCDS from the last month. Ive just rechecked today after about another month, the results are clean as a whistle.

Im pretty sure it runs better, but that might just be in my mind, it seemed smoother almost immediately.

[gupsterg]

God knows when they slipped this in!

Today nosing around for some info came across this to answer my above query ...



Technical product information
Transaction No.: 2016504/19


Engine warning light on, intake manifold flap function - V6 2.7 l, 3.0 l TDI
Release date: 28-Feb-2012

[kungfooflea]

Did anyone manage to find how to easily do the Bank 1 connectors? Sounds like this is the tricky one and the one i need to do :(

[Lazydad]

Just have to say a huge thanks for the knowledge shared in this and similar posts! Having lived with an intermittent P2011 fault for a few months, and finally decided to try and sort it out this week, my journey has gone from £165+vat for new motor as advised by local 'specialist', through £22 for repair kit on ebay, to £9.20 for genuine kit from local Audi dealer, delivered by lunchtime tomorrow!

The internet is truly awesome sometimes. Well actually it's the people who take the time and effort to make the information available that are truly awesome.

Dave

[kungfooflea]

I just have to say, i freaking love you all. This thread made me so happy. I bought said parts from Audi Peterborough, £18 for total for both, managed to get them both fitted in about an hour. Bank 2 on the passengers side took 5mins but bank 1 on the Drivers side took some serious patients as the clip is unclipped from the bottom which proved difficult to get off and then get the new one on. Had i not wanted to replace the ball part the new rods would have been fitted on both sides in about 2 mins. But the point is it is possible to do without having to take anything off. so happy, car def has more power and no more light :)

[Edckute]

Could you give me guidance how you manage to replace Bank1 because I am struggling. Cheers Eddie

[Guest 2]

Does this help VW AUDI Forum - VWAF (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?137123-Intake-Manifold-Replacement-and-Fix-2-7-TDi-3-0-TDi-V6-Engines)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Edckute]

Thanks Chris this is quite good, but here whole manifold has been remove, so replace those links it quite easy. Do you know if is a way to remove bank 1 clip not take all apart?

[MarkTM]

Personally I'd try just replacing the arm on bank as a first try, if it then doesn't clear the light/fault and it needs to clip and ball removed from the lower then you'll probably need something like these, along with a small inspection mirror and a torch to do it. :(

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Needle-Nose-Pliers-275mm-45-Angle-Nose-Siegen-Tools-Pliers-Long-Reach-/271054775939?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f1c1fa683

[Lazydad]

I just replaced the arm on mine, unfortunately it hasn't cleared the problem permanently so I too am going to have to figure out how to prise the clip off with very limited access. Will be watching here with interest for advice!!

Dave

[Lazydad]

Well, I can now answer my own question, as the job is now done! A couple of spare hours came along which I wasn't expecting so I thought I'd have a crack at it.

I don't know if they are all the same, but on my car the metal clip cannot be pushed off downwards because it's on top of the cylinder head. The very edge of the machined face where the plastic manifold locates extends under the clip by a couple of milimetres, enough to trap it in place. The only way to get it off is to raise the manifold. With all the manifold bolts removed, the upper manifold bolts loosened or removed, the flap motor removed, it is just possible to lift the manifold quarter of an inch or so, this is all it took and the clip pushed off easily, and the new one back on just as easy.

Hope this helps someone, I just hope it has cleared the problem properly, fingers crossed!

Dave

[Edckute]

Well, I can now answer my own question, as the job is now done! A couple of spare hours came along which I wasn't expecting so I thought I'd have a crack at it.

I don't know if they are all the same, but on my car the metal clip cannot be pushed off downwards because it's on top of the cylinder head. The very edge of the machined face where the plastic manifold locates extends under the clip by a couple of milimetres, enough to trap it in place. The only way to get it off is to raise the manifold. With all the manifold bolts removed, the upper manifold bolts loosened or removed, the flap motor removed, it is just possible to lift the manifold quarter of an inch or so, this is all it took and the clip pushed off easily, and the new one back on just as easy.

Hope this helps someone, I just hope it has cleared the problem properly, fingers crossed!

Dave

Thanks Dave, I will give ago next weekend, fingers crossed it cure problem

[Nigma]

Up until a few weeks ago the light was out and everything was fine. Now it seems the problem come back again. It's still bank 2 that's causing the issue (even after replacing the ball and clip).
Now I am seeing this error :

012597 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Lower Stop not Reached
P3135 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

In addition to the one I was seeing before the repair :

004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2): Lower limit not reached
P1018 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

Would this be a fault with the motor ?

Thanks

[Edckute]

Can someone clarify, which side is bank 1 and bank-2?

[Nigma]

Can someone clarify, which side is bank 1 and bank-2?

Bank 2 is the one closest to the passenger side (on a right-hand drive) - seems to be the one that mostly fails and also is also the most accessible one.

[Edckute]

thanks

[MarkTM]

Have you exercised the bar up and down ensuring there's no crud at the bottom one

I had mine changed completely on bank 2 and am intermittantly getting the fault:

004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2)
P1018 - 001 - Lower limit not reached

I then move it up and down a few times and it disappears, I think I was advised that tolerances are pretty exacting but the fact it's intermmitent tend me to think the fault doesn't actually there.

Not quite sure what the upshot of running it consistantly with the fault showing is though!?

[kungfooflea]

I managed to do bank 1 without removing the manifold. As you know the clip is upside down so I used a flat screwdriver driver on the tip of the clip if you imagine a c, that would be on the one tip then gently hammer the handle of the screwdriver with my hand enough to edge the clip downwards but not enough to damage the internal shaft which is plastic. I then alternated between each tip of the c, so each side to apply even pressure. I then had it out enough to get long nose pliers in the to bend the clip away from the manifold and eventually off.... It did take some time. Getting the new ball / shaft part in was easy enough just make sure you push it all the way back in .Getting the new clip back in was a b**** and if it took me 20 attempts that would be an understatement. But I used long nose pliers to line up the clip then managed to squeeze my hand in to be able to apply upward pressure on the clip. I eventually got it in and then fitting the new arm was easy. It took an hour to do both sides and was only 5mins on bank 2 :)..... Good luck

[UVB]

Can anyone clarify for me if it is possible to fit both parts of the repair kit with everything else in situ for bank 2? The arm seems easy enough but the other bit doesn't look like something that might come out easily.

[Lukenkarl]

Can anyone clarify for me if it is possible to fit both parts of the repair kit with everything else in situ for bank 2? The arm seems easy enough but the other bit doesn't look like something that might come out easily.It is possible, just unclip the circlip thingy and pull it out. lightly grease the new one and line it up with the cam inside. 15 mins tops

[UVB]

Thanks, I'll see if I can give it a go tomorrow.

[UVB]

All done for bank 2 but don't fancy my chances with bank 1 just yet....found this vid that helps:

Audi VW Manifold swirl flap repair Kit - how to - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvXSQ-OXDF8)

[Lukenkarl]

All done for bank 2 but don't fancy my chances with bank 1 just yet....found this vid that helps:

Audi VW Manifold swirl flap repair Kit - how to - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvXSQ-OXDF8)Has the fault cleared ?

[UVB]

I'd already cleared it with VCDS (it was only showing as intermittent anyway) but it certainly hasn't come back.

[cwilding]

Evening all. I've just read all 7 pages of this thread and can confirm I'm ignorant :-( I can't even work out if this is what I need. Someone at work kindly did a VCDS scan today for me. Apparently 5 of my 6 glowplugs are faulty "Open Circuit" but the one I'm interested in is the "012597 - Intake Manifold Runner Control P3135 - 001 - Lower Stop not Reached" fault. How do I tell what "side" this is - is this what the 001 indicates?
And am I right in thinking that I can just purchase these bits for a few pounds from Audi and it will remove the problem? Any simple help that anyone can give me will be much appreciated. Is this a job that a real beginner can look to do or is it best to find an independant? (anyone recommend someone round the Suffolk area?)

Thanks.

[UVB]

The glow plug issue is a common one - most of the cars I have scanned with vcds have this and the log will probably show it as intermittent. You might find it takes a little longer to start on cold days.

I can't remember whether bank 1 is nearside or not but that is the easier one if so. It is indeed a very easy job; where are you in Suffolk? If you are anywhere near Waldringfield I don't mind doing it for you as I've just done mine and it is very easy if it is the nearside bank.

Depending on where in the county you are, the nearest independent I know of are John Austin at Marks Tey.

[UVB]

I've just read my own post further up this page to see that bank 1 is offside. In my defence, it is early and I am typing this on my phone.

Happy to help you have a go at it still if you are nearby. Could be good practice for if (when) mine throws the fault on that side too.

For the price of the parts, if you are going to do bank 1 you may as well do bank 2 as well. If anything, starting with bank 2 might help with doing bank 1 through familiarity.

[Kash27]

I've only had my 2.7tdi for 2 weeks now, it's done 70k miles.

How can I tell if the swirl flap repair as been done on my car? Is there a visual difference?

Only service history I have is dealer stamps, no other reciepts for parts etc.

[Guest 2]

I've only had my 2.7tdi for 2 weeks now, it's done 70k miles.

How can I tell if the swirl flap repair as been done on my car? Is there a visual difference?

Only service history I have is dealer stamps, no other reciepts for parts etc.

I don't think there's any visual signs, it's just when the light comes on and they can fail numerous times. Mine have failed 3 times I think from memory but thankfully replaced under warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[MarkTM]

The difference is that the cup parts of the ball joint on the bar are enclosed on the new type, whereas the old ones have a hole/aperture/slot on the back. I think it's safe to assume that the arms haven't been replaced independently as have only been available since Dec 2012. That said the whole assembly could have been but that would definitely be in service records as the cost would have been £hundreds Bank 2 on the right as you look at the engine, bank 1 on the left closer to the middle. I simply replaced the arm on my bank 1 without the need to replace the ball joints or clips.

[cwilding]

That would be great, and hugely appreciated. I am nearby as it happens, and was planning on getting my wheels reconditioned at a place in Waldringfield! (Small world) I'll PM you.

[Kash27]

So guys, correct me if I'm wrong here, if I was to replace the arm on both banks only that should suffice?

I'm gonna pick up the repair kit from Audi this Saturday as I'm going down to the dealership anway, may ask how much they would charge for changing them also.

[MarkTM]

IMO it's better to do both properly, my right one was my left I just changed the arm. What you have to look for is how much wear is on the balls :1zhelp: if they are still spherical then they should be fine, but they can wear out, if so then the whole bit (ball and metal clip) should be replaced. Both the ball and clip are exactly the same, whereas the arms of a different (potentially better?) design. Since the kit is £7.44+VAT per side you can compare the ball joint in the new one with the one fitted to the car to assess wear.

[UVB]

Mine was throwing a warning on one bank only but I bought both kits. Initially I just replaced the arm on both, but then the warning came back a few weeks later on the same bank. I then changed the other bit on that bank and the warning went (and hasn't come back since). Fortunately mine was the easier bank to do but if it had thrown the warning on the hard side originally I'd have done both.

[GazSarge]

Hi guys, I have this code p3135 intake manifold runner control: lower stop not reached which I now know I have to replace the swirl flaps or one of, but I also this code p2008 intake manifold runner control circuit: open bank 1. Are these related codes or is it a case of I need to replace the manifold as well? If anyone has had both codes and only replaced the swirl flaps I'll be happy to hear about it. Thanks

[Guest 2]

Welcome to VWAF

Did you clear all faults and rescan?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17426/P1018/004120

[GazSarge]

Yeah I have a vagcom scanner and cleared all the faults but both come back. I'll order the swirl flaps tonight and see if it works

[MarkTM]

I managed to do bank 1 without removing the manifold. As you know the clip is upside down so I used a flat screwdriver driver on the tip of the clip if you imagine a c, that would be on the one tip then gently hammer the handle of the screwdriver with my hand enough to edge the clip downwards but not enough to damage the internal shaft which is plastic. I then alternated between each tip of the c, so each side to apply even pressure. I then had it out enough to get long nose pliers in the to bend the clip away from the manifold and eventually off.... It did take some time. Getting the new ball / shaft part in was easy enough just make sure you push it all the way back in .Getting the new clip back in was a b**** and if it took me 20 attempts that would be an understatement. But I used long nose pliers to line up the clip then managed to squeeze my hand in to be able to apply upward pressure on the clip. I eventually got it in and then fitting the new arm was easy. It took an hour to do both sides and was only 5mins on bank 2 :)..... Good luck

Flea, this detailed write up was greatly appreciated, I did mine today and managed to do bank 1 without lifting the manifold, I did however remove the pipe between the MAFS and the throttle body as gave my small hands extra room to work. Couldn't find my long nosed pliers to made do with a small pair, an old broken pair of scissors and a screwdriver!

Didn't video but I took some pics.whole job took this novice 20 mins between from 3pm until 3.21 :biglaugh:

I'd strongly advise a torch or worklight as essential, as is pretty dark back there even when daylight..attached are some pics, you can clearly see where previous owner had tried to do a temp fix with silicon to enable him to sell it on (but in Aug last year the repair kit wasn't available.)

Now just need to clear the codes and (digits crossed) my EML should go out :D

23064
23068230672306623065

Inside my TB was beautifully clean, apologies for the dirty engine bay, it's really highlighted under flash :(

[MarkTM]

Ooops! Missed two pics of old ball and clip and my essential tools for the job :)

2307123072

[MarkTM]

No faults showing now! :biglaugh:

Just need to get my headlight range adjuster motors sorted!

[Duggy72]

OK peeps! http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/friends.gif

I PM tonyandkaty hoping they would have P/N for repair set as in ebay listing you can see a VW logo on top right of flipped sticker...

Alas the seller was cunning and sent tonyandkaty items unmarked/repackaged!

But there is the EPC :) ... the cunning white coat people have created the repair set!

P/N is 059 198 212 (tel:059 198 212)

Description is "repair set for intake manifold"

Further info in EPC...

Slide rod intake manifold x 1
Follower x 1
Clip x 1

God knows when they slipped this in!

and the price at your local dealer £8.70 inc VAT WOW! does not cover it!!!

Much http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/respekt.gif to tonyandkaty for this great share!

I can now sleep safely knowing there is a cheap fix for the worn linkshttp://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/yahoo.gif!

Take that BMW! whilst their engines choke on the flaps let "Vorsprung durch technik" be the path!

This is the best Christmas pressie knowing you don't need to fork out ££££ for resolution of issue!


Just a quick question, is this a generic part for all Vag cars? Just wondering if I can pop into my local VW dealer as it is a bit closer than my nearest Audi dealer.

i recently bought a rear parking sensor for my Audi but the packaging was VW, Audi, Seat etc...

cheers :Blush:

[gupsterg]

Hi,

U should b able 2 m8, some dealers will post parts.

ATB
G

[fmc51]

I got the kit from eBay for my 2.7 tdi during the Christmas break, and decided to fit them. Had the r/h side as you look from the front done in 20 mins, just pried off the ball joint on the top, pulled off the little 'horseshoe' clip with a long nose pliers, pulled out the old lower crank lever. Refitting the new crank lever was a little tricky, but got it in ok. Applied a small amount of grease to the new link arm sockets and clipped on.

Then I went to the other one, the left bank as you look from the front. I spent about an hour and a half trying to remove the 'horseshoe' clip from the worn lower crank lever, but failed in the end. It seems that the 'horseshoe' clip was fitted from below, ie, it needed to be pushed downward to remove it, but it fouled on the top of the aluminium head when I attempted to push it off. I could not rotate it, and eventually gave up. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I get it off?

Cheers,

Fergus

[MarkTM]

^^^ Read my posts 78 & 79 I managed it, albeit in slightly warmer temperatures.

One thing I ommitted was that I superglued the outside edge of the horseshoe clip to a long flatbladed screwdriver (you'll get the orientation correct before glueing) line it up then get your fingers under and push up halfway. Break off the superglue bond and wiggle and push up all the way.

Good luck!

[robledrum]

Hey all,
Ive today done the passenger side...took a bit of doing! In the end i gave up replacing the whole lot and just fitted the new rod.....no matter how hard i tried to get the new ball joint in it just would not go all the way in?? I know that there is not a lot of room to give it a push or a whack!! So i stick with the old ball joint and clip and new rod.....was getting dark and cold and need the car for work tmw. Test drive confirms that for now the EML is off and i have back that wonderful responsive low end grunt...boy i missed that!! :Blush:
Anyhow ...thanks for all the super info on this forum....has been a worrying few weeks trying to figure out what was up with the beast. Very happy that for now i have no EML and that ive saved a fortune on dealer suggested fix!!
Lastly.... anybody got any suggestions as to how to get the new ball joint on? Little bit of grease?

I noticed that the new part has very small raised sections withing the small slot where the ball joint pushes onto the shaft?? Giving it that tight fit i spose? Shame its to bloody tight to psh on with just your fingers....couldnt even force it in with the end of the spanner and no where to really lever against - just the heat shield thingy which is not that strong. Oh!! and not forgetting the other side which has to be done at some point....guessing it will be eaiser to do the same on the other side and just replace the rod, but would really like to rplace the whole lot!!!

Thanks

Rob

[MarkTM]

If your balls are in good condition and show no signs of wear then not fitting that bit should be fine. I my case passenger side balls replaced but not drivers side.

I had no problems snapping the cup to the ball by hand though.

[lukasztaxi]

Replacing the ball and clip or motor won't do the job and even if your engine management is off it will come back on after some time. There is a bigger problem and the manifold is a part that need to be replaced or reconditioned. I know how to do the job without spending a thousend pounds.

[MarkTM]

^^^^Well please share yoir wisdom Lukasz :)

[lukasztaxi]

Last week I had my manifold out. I looked inside and know what the problem is. In Uk Audi will tell you to replace manifold when something inside manifold is broken. Got all parts to replace it from abroad as you won't get it in UK. Will fit them on Monday and problem sorted for next 60k

[MarkTM]

Ok hope it all goes well and you can report back on

1) What the fault was
2) Where you bought the spares
3) The total cost

Oh some pictures would be good! :)

[lukasztaxi]

I can see its a common fault but really expensive to fix. When I had my manifold taken out flaps inside where damaged and that is the part you need to replace. I'm 100% sure error won't come back after my repair. I can get the parts and also fix the problem cheaper than main dealer.

[gianton]

Ok hope it all goes well and you can report back on

1) What the fault was
2) Where you bought the spares
3) The total cost

Oh some pictures would be good! :)

+1 would be nice to know these too.

[MarkTM]

+1 would be nice to know these too.

Don't think he wants to share without profit...not a community member but just posted to drum up potential business I fear :(

[gianton]

Don't think he wants to share without profit...not a community member but just posted to drum up potential business I fear :(

Yes just saw his last post.

[lukasztaxi]

Yes just saw his last post.

Just need to replace the swirl flaps. Don't need to be a genius to find the problem but need to have some time and skills to fix it. If you havent got both its obvious that you will need to pay someone.

[gianton]

Just need to replace the swirl flaps. Don't need to be a genius to find the problem but need to have some time and skills to fix it. If you havent got both its obvious that you will need to pay someone.

It would be nice to know where you got the parts and which parts are they.

[lukasztaxi]

23381

Got parts from my mate who is working in Audi in Poland.

[gianton]

23381

Got parts from my mate who is working in Audi in Poland.

Thanks! Is this set correct? Saugrohrklappe Drosselklappe Saugrohr Reparatursatz Repsatz A4 A5 A6 A8 Q5 Q7 | eBay (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Saugrohrklappe-Drosselklappe-Saugrohr-Reparatursatz-Repsatz-A4-A5-A6-A8-Q5-Q7-/190895749477?pt=DE_Autoteile&fits=Make%3AAudi%7CModel%3AA6+Allroad&hash=item2c7245f965)

[lukasztaxi]

No. Does it look the same for you ? Simillar but most important is missing

[funavant]

Okay, so could you please share with us what damage occurred to the flaps? Most people here changed the links and ball joints,but you wrote the damage was inside the manifold. The only difference in your picture are the flaps, so I am assuming there was something wrong with them.
What was it? Did they (the flaps) break?

[funavant]

Here we go guys,
the link where our mysterious member probably got the parts from:
Complete Repair KIT Audi VW 2 7 3 0 A4 A6 A8 Q7 Touareg Inlet Intake Manifold | eBay (http://www.ebay.pl/itm/complete-repair-kit-audi-vw-2-7-3-0-a4-a6-a8-q7-touareg-inlet-intake-manifold-/121256502438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_212&hash=item1c3b7364a6)

[gianton]

Here we go guys,
the link where our mysterious member got the parts from:
Complete Repair KIT Audi VW 2 7 3 0 A4 A6 A8 Q7 Touareg Inlet Intake Manifold | eBay (http://www.ebay.pl/itm/complete-repair-kit-audi-vw-2-7-3-0-a4-a6-a8-q7-touareg-inlet-intake-manifold-/121256502438?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_212&hash=item1c3b7364a6)

Thanks mate, hope they won't be necessary for my car but you never know!

[funavant]

There is a link on that polish ebay page to a youtube video where a guy is showing how to change the flaps. Basically the problem is associated with wear, the flaps sit in what looks like bushes, they wear down and then the flap shaft becomes loose.
The guy is saying (and showing) two manifold designs, one from 2005-2008, the other from 2008-2010, you can see the difference in the video, the guy is Polish, fortunately I do understand a bit.
Not a big deal to change the whole mechanism incl the flaps, not sure how difficult it is to remove the manifold from the engine.
The guy sounds genuine, looks like he knows his stuff, he says they are a company dealing with these issues.

Edit:
Here is the link to that video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiCC-7IgYak

[gianton]

A friend's Tuareg had both intake manifolds changed with a total of €1000+ EUR, too bad didn't have this info earlier.

[lukasztaxi]

There is a link on that polish ebay page to a youtube video where a guy is showing how to change the flaps. Basically the problem is associated with wear, the flaps sit in what looks like bushes, they wear down and then the flap shaft becomes loose.
The guy is saying (and showing) two manifold designs, one from 2005-2008, the other from 2008-2010, you can see the difference in the video, the guy is Polish, fortunately I do understand a bit.
Not a big deal to change the whole mechanism incl the flaps, not sure how difficult it is to remove the manifold from the engine.
The guy sounds genuine, looks like he knows his stuff, he says they are a company dealing with these issues.

Edit:
Here is the link to that video: Audi VW Manifold swirl flap repair Kit new pull rods new swirl flap new bearings. a6 a8 a4 a5 q7 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiCC-7IgYak)



And you can see how simple problem that is. I just don't understand why it's so hard to get that part and why in UK they will tell you to change manifold. It's all about the money. Why fix for 200 if they can charge over 1000.

[funavant]

Well, main dealers won't tell you its an easy and cheap fix.
They go by Audi service manual: Step 1: remove the engine
Step 2-6: irrelevant
Step 7: change the manifolds
Step 8: don't forget to rip the customer off+VAT

[funavant]

Hej Lukasz,
will the guy from the polish ebay ship to the UK?
He says he would, but do you know if he is reliable?
The cost inlc shipping would be around £115, very competitive price, I guess.

[lukasztaxi]

Thanks mate, hope they won't be necessary for my car but you never know!

That plastic flap with bushes or something is cr.. and sooner or later it will be worn in your car mate. Then you know what to do. It breaks that ball joint connected to manifold motor. If you won't change flaps, everything else you would change around manifold wont work or will be damaged soon.

[lukasztaxi]

Hej Lukasz,
will the guy from the polish ebay ship to the UK?
He says he would, but do you know if he is reliable?
The cost inlc shipping would be around £115, very competitive price, I guess.

Hi mate. I spoke with guy and with extra charge he would send it. I spoke with him about getting set of 10 of these flaps as I can see it wears quick and no one knows what the problem is and people are spending thousand of pounds on it when it can be much cheaper.

[gianton]

That plastic flap with bushes or something is cr.. and sooner or later it will be worn in your car mate. Then you know what to do. It breaks that ball joint connected to manifold motor. If you won't change flaps, everything else you would change around manifold wont work or will be damaged soon.

Yes that makes sense. One set is for the one intake right? For both (left and right) I would need two sets.?

[Fl4sh]

Just want to thank everyone who has created and added extremely useful information to this thread!!!
The engine management light in my A5 V6 3.0tdi Quattro has been burning a hole in my retina for over a year now but the car itself has completed over 40,000 miles without issue.

My local Ste4lers wanted to replace both my manifolds at a cost of over £1500 and continued to tell me that the repair kits were not listed for my car even though I now find that this fix has been available for a long time and no doubt they also know it will work perfectly well.
I can't even begin to imagine how many unsuspecting Audi owners have just paid the money to have two new manifolds, the only fix the Ste4lers will offer???

Anyhow, 10 minutes on bank 2 and only 2 minutes on bank 1 just replacing the rod (didn't fancy getting the clip back on bank 1) and my eyesight has been saved, i think it'll be a few weeks before i finally lose the yellow blur in the back of my eye sockets but i now have closure thanks to a great thread and some top quality information.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!;)

[SRT88]

<see below>

[Guest 2]

Sorry, whether via PM or not, you're still advertising which you can't do on here without sponsorship.

Continued advertising including signature, profile info etc will result in a ban.

[gupsterg]

If your balls are in good condition and show no signs of wear then not fitting that bit should be fine. I my case passenger side balls replaced but not drivers side.

I had no problems snapping the cup to the ball by hand though.


Replacing the ball and clip or motor won't do the job and even if your engine management is off it will come back on after some time. There is a bigger problem and the manifold is a part that need to be replaced or reconditioned. I know how to do the job without spending a thousend pounds.


^^^^Well please share yoir wisdom Lukasz :)

Hi fellow members,

I have got these parts from http://airshox.eu/vag-audi-3-0tdi-2-7tdi-swirl-flaps/ I can vouch for quality of this repair kit, it eliminates the internal wear within the manifolds.

The link arms kit from audi is partial fix, in reality the external link arms coupled with the repair kit from airshox is the answer for full refurbishment.

Here is video of what occurs to internals of manifold Link:- Audi A5 3.0tdi intake manifold problem - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL4VwMKO0Pg)

Here is video of internal butterfly repair kit Link:- VW Audi V6 Swirl flap butterfly repair kit - YouTube (http://youtu.be/lCTZE3ZBXV0)

My related thread Link:- Audi A6 2.7 & 3.0 TDi EGR & Intake system cleaning info please... (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?141451-Audi-A6-2-7-amp-3-0-TDi-EGR-amp-Intake-system-cleaning-info-please)

For any info post or PM peeps :) .

All the best
Gup

[MarkTM]

Am guessing you need x 2 of these complete repair kits for a 3.0, so £180 for a pair inc. shipping if 100zl for the pair?

[gupsterg]

Hi Mark :) ,

Check your inbox mate.

ATB
Gup

[Guest 2]

Thread locked, SRT88 please see your inbox.

[SRT88]

I would like to invite all interested to our webpage: www.airshox.eu . We are offering the kit that GUP vouched for some posts above.
Here is a promotion video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dk0oMX0exHg

[Nigma]

I managed to get around to doing the complete Intake manifold replacement, all in all took about 2 hours and was relatively easy to do. I did manage to drop the very last bolt that fell through to the bottom of the car - so had to take the under tray off. Could have probably done it in much less time overall.

Inspecting the old manifolds, it's clear once you take them off where the issue is. There was a fair mount of play with the flaps themselves, which explains why the temporary fix of replacing just the linkage doesn't really work. You need to replace the whole lot.

One word of advice, take a lot of care when removing/installing the hex bolts holding the manifold to the engine, as I sped through this process and ended up stripping the head on one of the bolts (Drivers side manifold, far right bolt) as the hex bit was not completely inserted into the bolt. My advice here is to add some pressure to the top of the ratchet as you unscrew to ensure that good contact is maintained. I did manage to extract the bolt using a similar sized torx bit that amazingly gripped inside and undid the bolt (Phew!!!!!!!).

So not the light has gone off, fingers crossed it stays off!

I followed the excellent guide posed by Sparker : VW AUDI Forum - VWAF (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?137123-Intake-Manifold-Replacement-and-Fix-2-7-TDi-3-0-TDi-V6-Engines)

Thanks.
A.

[sparker]

Glad it all went well for you today.You can be very satisfied that you have done a proper job. Quick fixes are fine for a while but as the video's show and you have seen for yourself, the ware in the butterfly bearings gets bad and this intern means the linkage and motors get extra load. The deposits that build up inside are grim too!

[doberman]

There is a guy selling the upgraded manifolds on eBay (Germany) for around £400 for both. Send your damaged ones back and you get £60 off. That's what I did with mine. He gives 2 year warranty as well plus he would pay for postage in order to receive your damaged ones back. I had one in good working order so I only sent one back and I put the good one back on eBay....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Nigma]

I used exactly the same guy and did the manifold change this weekend. Highly reccomend!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

[gianton]

What's the difference between these upgraded ones and the ones from the post here Audi V6 TDi 2.7 & 3.0 Inlet Manifold, Swirl Flap Repair Kit. - Page 12 (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?140390-Audi-V6-TDi-2-7-amp-3-0-Inlet-Manifold-Swirl-Flap-Repair-Kit&p=880905#post880905)

[doberman]

I have had it repaired once and it failed again. It's only a matter of time because the parts are plastic. I will try and find the link and show you. Give me a minute because I am using my iPhone and it is not as easy...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SRT88]

I am giving the same offer but NO payment requested in advance(for the damaged goods), better price and LIFETIME warranty (no questions asked). Our products are over-engeneered and of very high quality.
Last but not leased I am official contributer to the community.
Therefore I am here for you and happy to help. Everyone interested could find technical information and HD photos concerning this issue on our website AirShox - Professinally Refurbished (http://www.airshox.eu).
Would you like to organize an initial mass purchase which will lower the price significantly? Let me show you how dedicated I am to solve this irritating problem of yours.
All the best
Stanislav Tsonchev
AirShox EU Team

[doberman]

That's the guy I used.

COMPLETE INLET MANIFOLDS KIT 2.7 3.0 TDI AUDI VW A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 Q5 Q7 TOUAREG | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMPLETE-INLET-MANIFOLDS-KIT-2-7-3-0-TDI-AUDI-VW-A4-A5-A6-A7-A8-Q5-Q7-TOUAREG-/320946324492?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab9e4440c)

He was recommended by the garage that did the repair for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[doberman]

The faulty manifold was actually worse than just a light on my dash. We put the car on the rollers before the remap and we only got 157bhp. I have the 180bhp version.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[doberman]

We used the £30 repair kit to get me up an running but a few months later the light came back on. We went for the upgraded manifold solution and that was it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SRT88]

Here is a photo of the product we manufacture. No middle man in between. 23739
You are also welcome to visit our Facebook page: AirShox.eu where you could see news and current info concerning installs made in our shop.

[Nigma]

Does anyone know the part number of the 8/16 bolts holding the intake manifold to the head. Its for a 2008 A6 2.7 TDI ? The ones I need are a hex head.

I purchased some from Audio based on searching the internet, but ended up with some that are shorter and have a torx head - so I think the wrong ones.

Thanks.

[SRT88]

N 91054001 (http://www.partsbase.org/parts/aud-n91054001/) are the upper SHORTER hexs. They go between the intake manifold bridge and housing.
The one that I think you are looking for is either N 10582103 (M6X40) OR N 10092201 (M6X40) - have to be the same.
However every (M6X40) hex should work, no-matter what brand it is. Just in case use some thread lock glue (10nm-15nm Lock tight should do the job)
AUDI suggest and I quote: "9 Nm - Tighten in stages and in diagonal sequence".
My experience shows that sometimes it is possible to brake off one of the ears at the front if you do NOT "Tighten in stages and in diagonal sequence" OR over-tighten. If you do not have Torque Wrench just try not to over do them.
Upper once are exactly the same (9nm) but as the housing is made of plastic I would not suggest to use more than 10nm thread lock glue.
Regards
AirShox EU TEAM

[Nigma]

Thanks SRT.

N10552103 are the ones I originally ordered, and I've just been to see Audi again and they are certain they are the correct ones,

I've taken a picture of the ones I received from Audi:

23855

The ones that are installed are longer than 40mm and have a hex head (even the audi system lists them as a hex bolt), but they are coming as torx.

This is what is in my car :

23856

Thanks

[SRT88]

I would try to help you with day to day advice. If the torx you bought is M6 and goes into the thread all the way down without any excessive torque (so they are not too long to bottom out) then you are good to go. In my opinion torx is better than hex. However head type is not important in this case - nothing to obstruct. Therefore just be careful not to over-tight them with a long-arm wrench.
Good luck!
Stanislav Tsonchev
AirShox EU Team

[Nigma]

So I had another look at this. Once the bolt is push through the intake manifold, it only protrudes about 10mm (i.e. 10mm of the bolt will go into the head) which doesn't seem like a lot. Would you say this is the way it's meant to be ?

[SRT88]

Another easy way to find out how deep the thread is by putting a stick(barbecue) inside and mark with permanent marker on the stick. Then you could see if the bolt is too short.
If the bolt is 40mm then it has to be right - at least AUDI says so.

[nozzil]

Just to add my recommendation for the Airshox solution as well. Just fitted the full manifold and servo (Airshox option 3) and I'm delighted with the whole process. Near immediate replies to my many questions about the hardware and extremely helpful with advice. My problem is now sorted and I'll be back when the other manifold fails!

Regards

Phil

[SRT88]

Many thanks for the positive feedback. We are honored to have the opportunity to help you!

[Turbine Eng]

Thank you for the post, Q7 just had the management light come on and advised it is the swirl flaps and will cost £ 1500 for two new inlet manifolds.
asked Audi if the kits work and for costs but they won't advise without my paying a further £50+ vat for another diagnostic test ?
I would have thought as this fault is across the range of vehicles it would be designated a design fault and be corrected, at 63k miles on a costly Q7 I am unimpressed.
thanks again for the post and I may well try the guys in Bolton.

[Nigma]

Thank you for the post, Q7 just had the management light come on and advised it is the swirl flaps and will cost £ 1500 for two new inlet manifolds.
asked Audi if the kits work and for costs but they won't advise without my paying a further £50+ vat for another diagnostic test ?
I would have thought as this fault is across the range of vehicles it would be designated a design fault and be corrected, at 63k miles on a costly Q7 I am unimpressed.
thanks again for the post and I may well try the guys in Bolton.

It's very likely that Audi will come back telling you the kit won't help. The problem is down to more than just the linkage, it's wear throughout the intake manifold that introduces the play. The new linkage might turn the light off for some time, but it will eventually come back on.
This is clearly a design fault, but for Audi to admit to that would involve a class action law suite or something.

If you are going to pay the £50+VAT, you may as well buy the kit instead as it's 5min job to replace and will be much cheaper.

[Racer41]

It's very likely that Audi will come back telling you the kit won't help. The problem is down to more than just the linkage, it's wear throughout the intake manifold that introduces the play. The new linkage might turn the light off for some time, but it will eventually come back on.
This is clearly a design fault, but for Audi to admit to that would involve a class action law suite or something.

If you are going to pay the £50+VAT, you may as well buy the kit instead as it's 5min job to replace and will be much cheaper.
On my 2007 A6 3.0 TDi I had the light on and bought the linkage kit. Fitted it myself and all was well.......for 2 months. The engine light came on again so I bit the bullet and bought two inlet manifolds and gaskets. Before I could fit them something else happened and the car is now gone. As a result I have two inlet manifolds and gaskets for sale for a fair price. Please let me know if you're interested. I'm looking for £300, which is less than they cost me!!

[gianton]

I'd like to add my recommendation for the Airshox solution too.

This morning my local indie fitted the full manifold and servo (Airshox option 3) for the driver's side (LHD car, yellow sticker). I had a couple of times fault codes scanned and decided to have it changed instead of waiting to brake down completely. My car has now 205.000 kms btw.

Very fast replies to my questions about the parts and very helpful.

Some pics of the parts, AirShox one is in the top.

http://i.imgur.com/cboOS2e.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2fm48CX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HqMLU40.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QOZ9hMk.jpg

[SRT88]

Thank you very much for your review and feedback! We are always trying to be as customer friendly as possible and help fellow TDI drivers.
Regards

[gianton]

I got a fault code scanned again today from the ECU:


P2011 intake manifold runner control bank 2



Anyone knows why this fault showed up again even though I changed this manifold?

[fmc51]

Hello Gianton,
I changed my manifolds, and got a fault later. it was the motor for that bank. The gears were worn inside. This may be the problem, because there should be no more play in the linkages.

Cheers

fergus

[gianton]

Hello Fergus,

Thanks for your fast reply. That's what SRT88 (Airshox EU) has just told me too. He told me to do some testing with ACC ON/OFF before he sends me a replacement servo motor.

Rgds

Antonis

Edit: Great service again by Stanislav (AirShox EU), he directed me over the phone, to do some steps with the manifold (linkage arm) and hopefully it'll work OK with no fault code again. If not a replacement servo motor will be sent to me.


Hello Gianton,
I changed my manifolds, and got a fault later. it was the motor for that bank. The gears were worn inside. This may be the problem, because there should be no more play in the linkages.

Cheers

fergus

[gianton]

I've been trying to reach Airshox EU/SRT88 (Stanislav) since 5 days ago but haven't got a reply to my 2 emails.

Could anyone advise if he had any communication with them lately?

[SRT88]

I apologize for the delay but I am a father since two weeks =).
Please send me a PM. You have received a mail as well.
Regards

[gianton]

Oh great news my friend, congratulations!

I just got your email and hopefully will have no more faults on the ECU with the replacement.

Thanks and regards,
Antonis


I apologize for the delay but I am a father since two weeks =).
Please send me a PM. You have received a mail as well.
Regards

[Lukenkarl]

I apologize for the delay but I am a father since two weeks =).
Please send me a PM. You have received a mail as well.
Regardscongratulations, hope you don't get too many sleepless nights

[SRT88]

Thank you! I very happy =) Sleepless nights are all worth!

[heeeddaebaw]

Rather than make a new thread I thought i'd post here. I was looking to buy a close friends A6 3.0l sometime in the near future and stumbled across this thread online.

His car had this error with the engine management light on and I believe the manifold was replaced however the fault came back around a year later. Rather than pay a huge bill and have no guarantee from the dealer that it definitely wouldn't happen again, he chose just to live with the engine management light constantly on with the advice of a different garage who said it shouldn't affect the car too much.

He has told me the car has been running fine like this for over a year and done many miles. I know as he's a close friend, he wouldn't lie however he is by no means mechanical. Can anyone give me advice as to if there would of been any more damage caused as he's been driving with the error for so long and whether or not it is a problem that would need fixing immediately.

Leading onto the next question, how much would it cost to fix the problem at worse ? It would be a really good deal for the car which is currently running perfectly now however its been over a year since the fault developed.

Any help is much appreciated.

[gupsterg]

google for SSP 350 , view page 10 , then function is more explained on page 11.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=25975&stc=1

Above is image of base of swirl manifold which meet cyl.head. The green box denote openings with no butterflies and are open all the time to allow air, the red circles are the inlets with butterflies to allow control of air.

I've read posts of other members driving cars long term with swirl flap issues and not noticing any performance/mpg decrease, now only issue I can see is getting a MOT with a MIL light on ins.cluster.

[heeeddaebaw]

Thanks for the input. It would be something I would get replaced in the future most likely. I see the best route for replacement would be the airshox links posted?

Can any garage fit these or can anyone recommend an audi specialist in the north of England. Est labour for a job like this?

[gianton]

Thanks for the input. It would be something I would get replaced in the future most likely. I see the best route for replacement would be the airshox links posted?

Can any garage fit these or can anyone recommend an audi specialist in the north of England. Est labour for a job like this?

My mechanic charged me €25.00 EUR for replacing one manifold, but that's in Greece.

[heeeddaebaw]

Ok thanks. I will check the rest of the forum out if I buy :)

[MarkTM]

Heeed, you didn't state the year of your car, or if estate or saloon, the former has an issue with the rear wiper, which should have been fixed.

I found that just changing the linkage arms will give you a few thousand miles of the light turning off, the kit is around £14 per side and only became available in 2012

Others have found that simply cleaning up the intake manifold and the flaps has cleared the issue as deposits were preventing full travel.

Worst case scenario is replacing the upper manifold but the costs aren't prohibitive, especially if you are halfway competant in an engine bay :)

I'll be doing a clean-up first before I buy new flaps/upper manifold, but that'll wait until next spring now.

I've driven 7k miles with the light on and just applied some black marker pen so the light doesn't burn holes in my retina...that with regular/weekly scans with VCDS to make sure now't else goes wrong. Economy doesn't seem to have been affected as am still achieving 40+MPG (700 on a tank) presently with mixed driving, as to performance being affected I imagine that 80% will never use the full performance of the 3.0 quattro that often.

If buying definately invest in VCDS once purchased, or indeed find someone on here with it that's local to you to scan the car pre-purchase, since nothing ruins a friendship more effectively than selling them sommat that breaks...especially a car.

[MarkTM]

only issue I can see is getting a MOT with a MIL light on ins.cluster.

I didn't think this was a fail, as asked on here in June prior to MOT (and blacking out on DIS with marker pen) and I think advised by Chris it wasn't a fail?

[heeeddaebaw]

It's an 08 Saloon. What was the problem with the wiper ? I will have to check this.

Also, I'm no expert but I don't mind giving things a go as long as there's a handy guide or useful information to help me on the way somewhere. Done a few repairs on my current car following guides and got along alright saving me some pennies!

First thing I'll do is check for error codes as I don't think its been checked for a while whilst the lights been on. Hopefully it will just be the swirlflaps error and nothing else. Then if I buy it I can look into way of getting the problem sorted. Just wanted to be double sure it wouldn't of caused any permanent damage driving with the fault present.
Thanks for your help :)

[MarkTM]

Saloon doesn't have the rear wiper issue....as no rear wiper! :D

I'm no expert either but have:

1) Removed/cleaned throttle body
2) Changed althernator regulator
3) Changed bulbs/installed LED's/whiter lighting
4) Done oil/air/pollen filter changes

[heeeddaebaw]

Shouldn't be an issue then haha. Yea I've done similar work on my current car. Nothing too audacious though!

I do hope everythings ok and I can get it. Its a massive step up in car for me and would be getting a good deal !

[MarkTM]

'Good deals' are subjective as I bought my 07 quattro saloon with sub 80k for just £8.5k over 2yrs ago, some at the time have paid over £13k for the same car with FSH.

I chose the 07 as no DPF and I didn't fancy being hassled by the regen malarkey :D

Good luck!

[Lukenkarl]

Did you get a scan done? If so which bank is showing the fault? I have just replaced both manifolds. I had no light on but the fault was recorded. When I removed the old ones the linkages were shot. Loose and lots of movement. If you servos are ok then go for option2,cleaning old manifolds is a pain. I have a spare repair kit (059 198 212) £12 delivered uk Royal Mail post

[heeeddaebaw]

Sounds like a bargain mark! Well my friend was trading his in however will offer me trade price so I see similar spec on autotrader for +£1/1.5k but I suppose a good deal depends how good the car is!

Lukenkarl, I haven't had it tested yet, will be in the upcoming weeks so I will let you know. How much did it cost you altogether and how difficult of a job is it to do would you say ?

[Lukenkarl]

Lukenkarl, I haven't had it tested yet, will be in the upcoming weeks so I will let you know. How much did it cost you altogether and how difficult of a job is it to do would you say ? Not a bad job about 3-4 hours. It the cleaning that's a pain. I put new gaskets in, you dont have to if you don't want to I am told. 240 euros plus £40 for seals from Audi (both manifolds)
Look earlier in this post (around post #141 for all details of Bulgarian forum sponsor (Stanislav)

[scuba79]

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can buy the actual swirl flaps (not the rods) from, to replace my heavily worn swirl flaps?

2009 Audi A4 3.0 Tdi.


Many thanks

[gianton]

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can buy the actual swirl flaps (not the rods) from, to replace my heavily worn swirl flaps?

2009 Audi A4 3.0 Tdi.


Many thanks

SRT88 is a sponsored dealer here for Home - AirShox (http://airshox.eu/en/), you can send him a PM. I got mine from him, great service and guy.

[scuba79]

Thank you, will get in touch with them.

[JLBmatic]

Have posted this on another section of this forum, but this may help others:


OK I have the same issue.... have changed the swirl flap arms and ball joints but the issue still comes back.... this is what my scan revealed:

1 Fault Found:

004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2)
P1018 - 001 - Lower limit not reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 170
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 126203 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 12.01 V
Duty Cycle: 20.5 %
Duty Cycle: 88.8 %
Duty Cycle: 20.5 %


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0



I'm going to go for it and change the offending manifold and maybe new actuator..... there is a supplier on ebay in Germany (autosmotorcraft) who seem to have a good range of options.... has anyone here used them?

Also, which is Bank 2 as you sit in the drivers seat? Left or Right?

Many thanks
James




Edit: Via my VAGCOM and disconnecting each actuator electrical conection one at a time and scanning the faults, I believe Bank 1 is on the Right Hand Side of the car as you sit in the driver seat (ie nearest the turbo).


ALso, I swapped the actuators over side to side and can confirm they are exactly the same units & part number if that helps others. Doing this also seems to have removed the fault (for how long I will report back!)

The Bank 2 which was showing the fault above definitely feels looser compared to the inlet flaps on the other bank.

2874828749

[SRT88]

Hello Sir,
Your problem is caused by worn out bushings and shaft. Normally bank 2 is the left side (always looked from behind the steering wheel). However sometimes it could be the right side (some A8). The easiest way to check which one is not responding is by performing an Output test via VCDS. Go to Engine -> output test -> hit activate up until you reach one of the swirl flap banks. If one moves from ~ 20.9 - 80.2 then it should be fine -> go to the next one. However if it does not move then you have just find your defective Swirl flap manifold.
Regards
AirShox EU Team

[MarkTM]

Confirmation here as to which bank is which:

Swirl flap repair kit (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/169866-Swirl-flap-repair-kit)

I have both 'lower limit not reached' messages on scan for the last 20k miles and after changing the arms 5k earlier, all I did was:

a) apply some permanent black marker to my display to stop my retina's being scarred :)
b) scan weekly to ensure that nothing else arises (nothing has)

The only upshot is that my emissions are 10% higher than when they were working, economy and power seem unaffected.

Appreciate that owners of Beemers with a similar set up delete them completely!

PS: You've not stated the marque/mode/year/transmission of your car, it helps to include it.

[sparker]

This might help. Search - Intake Manifold Replacement and Fix - 2.7 TDi + 3.0 TDi V6 Engines -. I did a right up on this. You can now buy the standard replacement parts to rebuild the manifold yourself as previous posts. Not much available when I swapped them out, so I purchased the uprated units with linkages and they worked perfectly. Lots of choice as to how you proceed.

[JLBmatic]

Thanks for the replies guys. Its a 2007 (8HE) 3.0 TDI Cabriolet quattro automatic so 230hp motor.
Noted and agreed Bank 1 is on the Right hand side as you sit in the drivers seat, Bank 2 is on the left. I'm surprised Bank 2 is the sloppier feeling of the two since Bank 1 is close to the Turbo. Maybe it got replaced before.

Anyway, Since swapping the actuators the MIL light is still off, but I fully expect it to coome on again soon. When that happens I'll be back onto SRT88 for help / new manifold.
One final question (couldnt see the answer in the threads I have just read).... are there any MODIFICATIONS or IMPROVEMENTS to Audi's flap/bush orginal design with the SRT88 Manifolds? Or is it a like-for-like replacement?

Thanks

[MarkTM]

OK so an A4 cabrio...nice!

I have seen that some ebay sellers offer 'reinforced' (with carbon fiber) manifolds, not sure how this aides things but a couple supposedly offer a lifetime guarantee.

Speak to Stan/SRT88 directly and ask him about his swaps. I do know that the Audi link arm is a slightly different design which may/not minimise wear.

[JLBmatic]

ok the light is back on....Stan I will contact you directly.

[jimmybond1]

sorry to drag this up.
would these bring up egr fault codes?

[MarkTM]

Deleted

[jimmybond1]

No, but if your manifold is coked up causing the vanes to stick causing the EML light to come on, then your EGR will most probs be gunged as well

I've had egr off.
was amazed how clean it was.
Gonna try egr cooler tomorrow and flap.
car has had egr delete done so was surprised when I had egr fault code.

[MarkTM]

Deleted

[jimmybond1]

Any work done to the car recently that may have removed the remap or EGR delete map bit?
no the remap and egr delete was done Monday.
Now I got this problem.
I was gonna take manifold off in morning and flaps to inspect them.
Half of me thinks it's the remap that's the problem.
But the guy did say it had the code in ecu b4 remap.

A month or 2 ago yes the light did come on and it had a egr fault code.
I deleted it and it's been fine.
It's like now there's either something wrong with the car and the extra boost etc is showing up this problem more
Or the remap is wrong.
car went in with no engine light on.
I took egr apart it was clean.
but I could hear it hissing if I blew down pipe.
I put a piece of metal in front of egr.
This has made my problem worse.
I thought as egr deleted I wouldn't get this agro.
I was clearly wrong.

[MarkTM]

Nothing like posters that give you the full facts from the onset!:(

Jimmy, as not relevant to this topic suggest you use the specific marque and model for your car and post in that section...or under a remap related thread.

When doing so please state:

What you have and engine size
Year, Mileage and transmission
When and where the remap was done
What software architecture was used (e,g, Kess V2 Blufin etc.)
What type of remap was done (e.g. economy/mid or performance)
Anything else done at the same time (EGR delete/DPF gut)

I've included most of the details of my car in my signature (see below) to save me having to repeat myself and have removed my previous posts from this thread...since not relevant to the 'swirl flap repair kit' issue.

Apologies in advance if you've never posted on a forum previously so don't know these things.

[islammm]

Hi All,

Looking for some advice please!

I recently purchased a 2008 Touareg 3.0 TDI (UK spec), 52k, FSH and very clean. I drove it approx 30miles before purchase, no lights, no issues.
Yesterday after being parked up for almost a week I turned it on and the Engine managent light appeared on the dashboard. I got a mate to scan it and I got the following error codes

004120 - Intake Manifold (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=intake+manifold) Runner (Bank 1): Lower limit not reached
P1018 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

Read this long thread, some say only change the arms and some say the whole kit. How much would it be to change the whole kit? I have an appointment with VW next Tuesday to get their say in it, although I have mentioned over the phone the error issue and the fact that its quite common!

Any mechanics here living near High Wycombe who would like to earn a few bobs on a weekend?!

Please do let me know. Cheers.

[gianton]

Hi All,

Looking for some advice please!

I recently purchased a 2008 Touareg 3.0 TDI (UK spec), 52k, FSH and very clean. I drove it approx 30miles before purchase, no lights, no issues.
Yesterday after being parked up for almost a week I turned it on and the Engine managent light appeared on the dashboard. I got a mate to scan it and I got the following error codes

004120 - Intake Manifold (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=intake+manifold) Runner (Bank 1): Lower limit not reached
P1018 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

Read this long thread, some say only change the arms and some say the whole kit. How much would it be to change the whole kit? I have an appointment with VW next Tuesday to get their say in it, although I have mentioned over the phone the error issue and the fact that its quite common!

Any mechanics here living near High Wycombe who would like to earn a few bobs on a weekend?!

Please do let me know. Cheers.

I went for the full replacement refurbished kit (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/140390-Audi-V6-TDi-2-7-amp-3-0-Inlet-Manifold-Swirl-Flap-Repair-Kit?p=920216#post920216) for piece of mind.


SRT88 (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/member.php/193377-SRT88) is a sponsored dealer here for AirShox EU (http://airshox.eu/en/vag-audi-3-0tdi-2-7tdi-swirl-flaps/), you can send him a PM with any of your questions and get a quote. I got mine from him, great service and guy.

[islammm]

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I have a couple of more questions;

1. Would/do VW swap the parts out if I supplied them what was required?
2. Where did you get yours done?

[gianton]

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I have a couple of more questions;

1. Would/do VW swap the parts out if I supplied them what was required?
2. Where did you get yours done?
I don't think an authorised dealer will have this work done but you can always ask.
I had mine done by my local indie mechanic, takes about an hour maybe a little more.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk