2.5TDi Diesel ECU repaired - still showing ECU fault

[wanstronian]

The story so far:

My wife was driving my '99 2.5TDi when it cut out. It restarted and she got about 25 yards then it died and wouldn't restart.
Local garage diagnosed ECU fault (fault code 01318).
Took off the ECU and sent it to ECU Testing Ltd, who repaired it.
Put it back on the car, bled the injectors and it fired up... but wouldn't rev above 1500 and glowplug light flashing.
Took it back into local dealer....... computer is showing an ECU fault. Also now faulty MAF.

The ECU repair is guaranteed, but could something else be causing the ECU to fail and report a fault? If so, there's not much point getting the ECU fixed again until the root cause is also fixed.

Garage is still looking into it, but any advice is appreciated! Been without the car for over six weeks now!

Cheers
W

[wanstronian]

Nobody??

[PaulF2.5TDi]

About all you can do is send it back to ECU Testing to check first. I have used them to look at my dash after BBA Reman buggered it.
They'll check it for free, and if there is no fault, you could always check your connector pins.

I assume you mean the pump ECU (sitting on top of the Diesel pump) was what you sent away? ( 1 01318 - Control Module for Injection Pump (J399) (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01318#01318_-_Control_Module_for_Injection_Pump_.28J399.29) ) It does mention doing a compression test.
I had a communication error on one of my 2.5 A4s, and sent the whole thing (plus injectors) to Diesel Bob. The module was good - just took an update - but the mechanicals needed looking at. The error turned out to be a loose pin on the big plug at the pump.

[Crasher]

This is why I will only send the ones I do to Bosch for repair or fit a new unit, whichever the customer can afford. Off course having one repaired does make life easier where the coding is concerned.

[wanstronian]

Well, the garage is still none the wiser. Having paid £250+vat for the ECU repair, I simply can't afford to pay a further £350+vat for a pump investigation/repair, plus labour for the garage to remove/refit the pump.

The car has done 145k miles, but should be good for a few more. I don't really know whether it's better to junk it or repair it. If the latter I'm looking at a total cost of over £1000 - and that's IF it's the actual pump, which is far from certain.

[wanstronian]

Just limped the car home.... looking at the Diesel Bob website, it mentions that a faulty air flow meter could cause the problems I'm seeing. This was one of the errors thrown up by the computer when I took it back into the garage after refitting the ECU.

Does it sound plausible that replacing this could fix the problem? It would certainly be far cheaper...

[Crasher]

What fault codes are stored at the moment?

[wanstronian]

What fault codes are stored at the moment?

Don't know - the guy at the garage isn't there this week, and the lady who gave me my keys didn't have any info.

I've just disconnected the airflow meter and started the car, it revs a bit higher and more responsive, but dies at around 2000rpm. The screws holding the meter in are Torx+, I don't have any T+ bits so can't remove it to check/clean/replace.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

First, scan the car again and post your codes.
If you think it's the MAF, try running with it unplugged - it should run better if the MAF is faulty.

Did you look further on the Ross-Tech link in my answer above?

These things are a bit frustrating, but generally it is worth persevering.
I was just about reaching the end of my tether with one of mine, when a simple actuator adjustment fixed a car that had bugged me for 2 years!!

[PaulF2.5TDi]

^^^^ sorry,cross-posted!

If you have access to VCDS-Lite, you should be able to get the codes up yourself.

[wanstronian]

First, scan the car again and post your codes.
If you think it's the MAF, try running with it unplugged - it should run better if the MAF is faulty.

Did you look further on the Ross-Tech link in my answer above?

These things are a bit frustrating, but generally it is worth persevering.
I was just about reaching the end of my tether with one of mine, when a simple actuator adjustment fixed a car that had bugged me for 2 years!!

Definitely runs better with the MAF disconnected, set of T+ bits duly ordered and should be here tomorrow. I've seen a few websites that suggest you can just clean the sensor.

I had a look at the link, I haven't had a compression test done. I'll see how I get on with fixing/replacing the air meter first.

If that does turn out to be the problem, I don't think I'll be bothering my local "VW/Audi Specialist" garage again...

[Crasher]

If the 00550 code is stored (you WILL have an Air Mass Meter fault code now as you have run it whilst disconnected) I am pretty sure it will be the Commencement Of Injection setting.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

If the 00550 code is stored (you WILL have an Air Mass Meter fault code now as you have run it whilst disconnected) I am pretty sure it will be the Commencement Of Injection setting.
Is that not connected to the advance solenoid sticking? :scared:

[wanstronian]

^^^^ sorry,cross-posted!

If you have access to VCDS-Lite, you should be able to get the codes up yourself.

Buying a laptop and cable is on my list, but money's tight at the moment!

Got the MAF sensor out, then spent about three hours looking for my contact cleaner with no luck. So off to Maplin tomorrow. Will also pick up a new sensor in case that don't work.

Really hope I'm moving in the right direction here, pump out and sent off is just not financially viable so fingers crossed a cheaper solution is around the corner!

Thanks for all advice.

[wanstronian]

If the 00550 code is stored (you WILL have an Air Mass Meter fault code now as you have run it whilst disconnected) I am pretty sure it will be the Commencement Of Injection setting.

So when I replace the MAF I'll need to limp it back to the garage to get the code reset? I won't be able to tell whether this has worked until I've got it reset?

[wanstronian]

Just want to check something as my posts on this thread are quite convoluted. To clarify current situation:

Having had the diesel ECU repaired, the engine won't rev past 1500 and the glow plug light is flashing.

If I disconnect the MAF sensor, throttle is more responsive and the engine will rev to 2000, but when it gets there the engine just cuts out.

When I limped the car home from the garage today with MAF connected, I dropped it down to 2nd for a corner which caused the revs to rise above 2000. The engine cut out and needed to be restarted.

Am I right to be looking at the MAF before anything else? Sorry I can't post fault codes, I have no way of getting them off the car at the moment.

Thanks

[PaulF2.5TDi]

I don't think it's your MAF, and cleaning it may well leave a residue on it. Going by the history so far, it sounds like a pump issue of some sort, I'm afraid.

Unfortunately you really need access to a code reader of some sorts - preferably full VCDS, as the fault codes and measuring blocks are crucial in further diagnosis.
You are at the 'imbuggerance' stage of the fault at the moment, it will get solved, but will take a while.

[wanstronian]

I don't think it's your MAF, and cleaning it may well leave a residue on it. Going by the history so far, it sounds like a pump issue of some sort, I'm afraid.

Unfortunately you really need access to a code reader of some sorts - preferably full VCDS, as the fault codes and measuring blocks are crucial in further diagnosis.
You are at the 'imbuggerance' stage of the fault at the moment, it will get solved, but will take a while.

I was afraid you'd say that! Having spent £300 on an ECU repair so far, I really want to keep costs down. I don't have the time or the garage facilities to take the front of the car and the pump off myself. I'm in the Glastonbury area - can anybody advise on the cheapest way to get this resolved? What sort of further costs am I looking at, roughly?

Thanks

[Crasher]

When I get a problem with these pumps I take them off and give them to a Bosch centre for overhaul or fit a new one, depends on what the customer can afford. I have had no success taking the pump ECU off and having it repaired.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

I sent the whole thing to Diesel Bob. The cost depends on what is wrong - and I was cheaper than the max price.
My one needed the mechanicals looked at - including a new advance solenoid and workings re-shimmed and a software update. I think it was about £500 - although that may have been with the injectors as I got them done at the same time. If the ECU has been fixed already, that is one less thing for Bob to do, so you won't lose out totally.
The problem is, you don't want to spend heaps of cash until you are reasonably sure - and that means VCDS. Is there anybody near you with it to help out for beer tokens?

[wanstronian]

When I get a problem with these pumps I take them off and give them to a Bosch centre for overhaul or fit a new one, depends on what the customer can afford. I have had no success taking the pump ECU off and having it repaired.

I wish I'd spoken to you before I parted with £300! How much is the total customer cost for a pump overhaul?

[wanstronian]

I sent the whole thing to Diesel Bob. The cost depends on what is wrong - and I was cheaper than the max price.
My one needed the mechanicals looked at - including a new advance solenoid and workings re-shimmed and a software update. I think it was about £500 - although that may have been with the injectors as I got them done at the same time. If the ECU has been fixed already, that is one less thing for Bob to do, so you won't lose out totally.
The problem is, you don't want to spend heaps of cash until you are reasonably sure - and that means VCDS. Is there anybody near you with it to help out for beer tokens?

I don't know anybody with VCDS. Maybe there's someone from the Glastonbury area lurking on this thread that could help??

[Hex69]

Have a look here - Vehicle Diagnostics Equipment - VCDS Information Only (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?211-Vehicle-Diagnostics-Equipment-VCDS-Information-Only)

There may be some-one near to you who could help out, if I was local I'd help, sorry :(

[Crasher]

I wish I'd spoken to you before I parted with £300! How much is the total customer cost for a pump overhaul?

You will have to ask your local Bosch centre.

[wanstronian]

Thanks to everybody for their help so far. Today I found a piece of paper in the passenger footwell - an Autologics diagnostics page which I assume is the latest set of fault codes. They are:

575 INTAKE MANIFOLD PRESSURE
Value Above Upper Control Limit
Sporadic Fault

1318 Injection pump control unit -J399
DEFECTIVE
Sporadic Fault

553 AIR MASS METER -G70
IMPLAUSIBLE SIGNAL

So you think I'm looking at a pump mechanics problem? Are these fault codes usually connected? ie. Could 575 cause 1318 or something?

Cheers

[PaulF2.5TDi]

575 will probably be stuck turbo vanes - google 'Mr Muscle turbo clean' to see how to fix that for a couple of pounds.

You MAY have a MAF issue, but it's hard to tell if that is an active, or transient fault - especially if you have disconnected the MAF earlier.

That leaves you with the original fuel pump fault.

I'm sorry to keep banging on about VCDS, but you need to clear the codes, run the car and see what happens.
There are pump tests you can do that may help diagnose things, such as the advance and retard solenoid test, and check Injected Quantities, actual air mass etc, but you need the software. Even this may not give a definitive answer, so you may end up sending your pump away whatever you try.
E-mail or call Diesel Bob, and see what he suggests.
Try a google search for your code ON THIS ENGINE and trawl VAG forums for VCDS maps of members who can help out.
There is a reasonable amount you can do via an e-bay lead and RossTechs Shareware version - VCDS Lite. It will be much cheaper, but you do not get full functionality and I'm not sure what support from RossTech.
Of course you could always buy a full version, and then talk to RossTech - but that's more cash!!

[Crasher]

Get the pump off and give it to a Bosch agent for a proper repair.

[wanstronian]

Get the pump off and give it to a Bosch agent for a proper repair.

I would if I hadn't already spent £300 getting the ECU repaired. I'm hoping that ECU Testing, who did the repair, will give me a cheap deal on servicing the pump itself, having already given them so much money! Not the ideal solution I know, but can't afford to just throw £300 away.

I've been looking at VCDS leads on eBay, none of them list the A4 B5 model in the compatibility list. I've emailed the sellers, but can anybody advise on a cable they've bought that works, so I can source from the same place?

[Crasher]

Buy proper VCDS, not an illegal clone.

[wanstronian]

Buy proper VCDS, not an illegal clone.

I've downloaded VCDS-lite, which is perfectly legal. I'm only interested in buying a compatible lead.

[Crasher]

Unregistered VCDS Lite is virtually useless, registered for $99 it is just about good enough.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Just so as you know, if you register with RossTech, then buy a lead off them later, they take the registration fee off the cost of the lead.

I bought a 'blue' lead off eBay (can't remember where from) a couple of years ago, registered with RossTech for the Lite license, (which didn't really make a huge difference) then bought a KII lead from them with a $99 discount later.
The KII lead arrived from the US within 3 days - during the really bad winter when I couldn't get stuff from England delivered!!
The 'blue' lead should work with VCDS Lite on a B5 - it's the later cars that are not good.
The problem you get is although you can use VCDS Lite, there is little to no assistance with these leads and they are a bit troublesome. I seem to remember having all sorts of trouble getting it going. The Lite version at the time didn't allow me to use the V6 TDi timing graph either but I don't know if that's still the case- although the timing CAN be checked without it.

I don't think ECU Testing fix pump mechanicals - I'm pretty sure they only do electronic components.

I know it's painful, but as Crasher said, it really looks like you need to cough up cash and get the pump looked at. At least once it's done, you have a good pump for the next 100,000 miles or so.

Lead-wise, blue lead + VCDS Lite will do for a start - reading and clearing faults only, then register when you can afford it, then upgrade to a full lead after you get some more cash. (Go for the HEX + CAN, not as I did KII as you then are limited on newer VAGs)
You can then try and recuperate some of the cost by checking cars for beer tokens!

[Crasher]

Just so as you know, if you register with RossTech, then buy a lead off them later, they take the registration fee off the cost of the lead

Thank you, I did not know that.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Thank you, I did not know that.

...of course they may have changed things now, but it was a fairly painless process for me a couple of years back.