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fraze
19-07-2007, 03:49 PM
hiya,
i left a post about my poorly audi s2, which seems to be holding back, i was told that the breather pipes were buggered and if i replaced them i would get my power back, however after replacing them, and they did need replacing the car is no different, i've now been told that because i have a dodgey temp sender this could be the problem, can anyone tell me if this would be the cause of my boosting problems and explain it please, the car definately isn't running right as i timed a 0-60 at 9 secs which i think you'll agree is alittle bit ***** as it's book time is 5.5 secs.
cheers chris

s6sputnik
21-07-2007, 02:45 PM
Your car must have symptoms....to run 9 sec 0-60 there has to be either a loud wooooosh or some major hesitation.

Lets start with...
1) What do you feel and at what RPM's?
2) What do you hear and at what RPM's?
3) Did you clean the connectors on your MAF?
4) Plugs and wires original...Are they the right ones for a 20v?
5) Injectors original?
6) Any smoke...Blue -Oil, White-H20, Black-Rich?

Well lets start there

fraze
22-07-2007, 10:53 PM
theres no smoke or hesitation it just revs up slowly you can feel the turbo boosting but not had i was thinking that maybe the turbo might be tired but there no smoke to or anything to suggest this, everything else is ok i've serviced the car and checked the wiring around the engine, when it went to the garage it didn't show up any fault codes. i want to know how a faulty temp switch would effect the running of the car.

s6sputnik
23-07-2007, 03:25 AM
theres no smoke or hesitation it just revs up slowly you can feel the turbo boosting but not had i was thinking that maybe the turbo might be tired but there no smoke to or anything to suggest this, everything else is ok i've serviced the car and checked the wiring around the engine, when it went to the garage it didn't show up any fault codes. i want to know how a faulty temp switch would effect the running of the car.

Who is talking about a bad temp sensor? MAF is the device which measures the amount of O2 that is coming in.

s6sputnik
23-07-2007, 03:27 AM
Is your car chipped?

fraze
26-07-2007, 07:48 PM
Who is talking about a bad temp sensor? MAF is the device which measures the amount of O2 that is coming in.
I KNOW WHAT THE M.A.F IS AND THATS WORKING FINE, BUT I WAS TOLD THAT A BAD TEMP SWITCH WOULD EFFECT THE RUNNING, AND MY CAR ISNT CHIPPED

scotty33
27-07-2007, 12:10 AM
The link in your other gauge thread explains the temp switch, basically if the sender is seeing an overheating engine, it tells the ECU to cut boost. If the sender is duff, in that way, then you won't get proper boost.
Have you checked the ECU fault codes? a coolant temp sender fault should show up, so would a lot of other possible causes.

s6sputnik
27-07-2007, 04:07 AM
The link in your other gauge thread explains the temp switch, basically if the sender is seeing an overheating engine, it tells the ECU to cut boost. If the sender is duff, in that way, then you won't get proper boost.
Have you checked the ECU fault codes? a coolant temp sender fault should show up, so would a lot of other possible causes.
He said he checked the codes and nothing showed up.

Does your car have a boost gauge? If it does does it reach 1.8bar?

scotty33
27-07-2007, 07:41 AM
Aah, so he did.

Maybe a split hose on the boost controller (N75?valve)?

fraze
27-07-2007, 02:41 PM
Aah, so he did.

Maybe a split hose on the boost controller (N75?valve)?

i've checked the all the hoses and found no splits and i fit a bleed valve to bypass the boost controller but still made no difference so av taken it back off i've tried bypassing the dump valve to see if that made any difference, it never, what i have noticed is that the induction kit makes a sucking sound under acceleration but i thought it might make more of a roar sound. i' ve also fit a new temp sender but still doesn't work so i assume there maybe a broken wire, what is the plug in the bottom of the main rad. i am getting ****** off with it as i wanted one for years and now i have one it isn't what i thought it be. the power dies off to quickly you get a little kick like a flat spot at 3,500 revs then it just doesnt want to know.

fraze
27-07-2007, 02:42 PM
He said he checked the codes and nothing showed up.

Does your car have a boost gauge? If it does does it reach 1.8bar?

hiya mate,
no i havent got a boost gauge fit.

paul20v
29-07-2007, 01:09 PM
hi
i had boost problems it was the boost frequency valve , also the knock sensors will have a good effect on power as these retard the timing to eliminate pinking i also changed these at some point because of power loss
happy hunting:beerchug:

fraze
29-07-2007, 01:46 PM
hi
i had boost problems it was the boost frequency valve , also the knock sensors will have a good effect on power as these retard the timing to eliminate pinking i also changed these at some point because of power loss
happy hunting:beerchug:
cheers mate,
it's been put in the garage, it had the fault codes read last time, but none showed up, wouldn't a faulty knock sensor have showed up. av never driven an s2 before this don't suppose you know what sort of performance you get out of one thats running right do you.

s6sputnik
29-07-2007, 02:37 PM
. av never driven an s2 before this don't suppose you know what sort of performance you get out of one thats running right do you.

2.2l 20v motor should give you 220-230 hp at the crank stock. 0-60mph in the 6.3 sec range if you keep it in second gear.

Find a long steep hill and put it in 3 gear and stomp on it. This is where you will have your max boost then listen for any sound of rushing air.

fraze
29-07-2007, 03:42 PM
2.2l 20v motor should give you 220-230 hp at the crank stock. 0-60mph in the 6.3 sec range if you keep it in second gear.

Find a long steep hill and put it in 3 gear and stomp on it. This is where you will have your max boost then listen for any sound of rushing air.


you get the sound all the time when accelerating it's comming from the induction kit. you don't get the roar from it just a sucking sound

s6sputnik
29-07-2007, 04:23 PM
you get the sound all the time when accelerating it's comming from the induction kit. you don't get the roar from it just a sucking sound

Yes, but you need to listen for an additional rush of escaping air.

paul20v
29-07-2007, 07:50 PM
hi knock sensors do not generally show up on a fault code reader and there is no way of live data reading them either you will just have to change them there are 2 and they must only be tightened to 15nm no more no less because they will not work properly sorry i could not be more help

fraze
29-07-2007, 08:26 PM
hi knock sensors do not generally show up on a fault code reader and there is no way of live data reading them either you will just have to change them there are 2 and they must only be tightened to 15nm no more no less because they will not work properly sorry i could not be more help

where abouts are they and what soet of cast are they. no codes showed up when it was done it's got new breathers and the temp gauge now works so am running out of options really.
cheers

fraze
29-07-2007, 08:28 PM
Yes, but you need to listen for an additional rush of escaping air.
cheers mate, i will try that soon as it's back in the garage at the mo so if they don't have any luck al do that.

paul20v
29-07-2007, 09:17 PM
hi there on the right hand side of the block they are a bit burried there is a blue one and a green one they are about 30quid each but they are often overlooked and very important cheers

fraze
01-08-2007, 09:17 PM
Yes, but you need to listen for an additional rush of escaping air.
tried it mate, there was no problem with it.

fraze
01-08-2007, 09:19 PM
hi there on the right hand side of the block they are a bit burried there is a blue one and a green one they are about 30quid each but they are often overlooked and very important cheers
hiya mate,
the garage say them knock sensors are ok, but said that it was dropping a cylinder when it comes onto boost, they've fit new rotor arm, dizzy cap, leads and plugs but it's still no better, any other ideas.

paul20v
01-08-2007, 10:05 PM
hiya mate,
the garage say them knock sensors are ok, but said that it was dropping a cylinder when it comes onto boost, they've fit new rotor arm, dizzy cap, leads and plugs but it's still no better, any other ideas.
hi my first ?is how did they check the knock sensors and what do they mean its dropping a cylinder on boost how did they determin this and by what means let me know as its seems a bit of a guess job to me cheers

fraze
02-08-2007, 09:15 PM
hi my first ?is how did they check the knock sensors and what do they mean its dropping a cylinder on boost how did they determin this and by what means let me know as its seems a bit of a guess job to me cheers

i don't know how they checked the sensors, but by dropping a cylinder they ment it misfired when the boost kicked in which was why it felt like it was holding back, so they replaced the dizzy, rotor, plugs and leads but still no joy. i am tearing me hair out now, probably going to change my insurance back to my vr6 untill it's sorted as i hate driving the s2, i don't know how well they go when they run right but at the moment it *****.

paul20v
02-08-2007, 09:30 PM
how is ur fuel pressure this my be an issue , the problem with this its a bit like going to the doctors over the phone , and i dont want to list a load of rubbish and you not get any where the s2 should make you smile not pull your hair out ,you seem to have covered usual routes of missfire ie ignition except a coil , lack of fuel will cause missfire on boost as you need a load more juice sorry i cant be more precise as i am not there
cheers paul

S2AVANT
02-08-2007, 11:57 PM
Drive down to Shefield and we'll fix it for you.
Bring some biscuits and a note book
Don't take it to any garage unless you know they know the S2 inside out.
Garages have a history of breaking S2s as they don't understand them.
We have vagcom and a set of blanking plugs to pressurise the intake system to able to test for boost leaks. This is the single most common cause of power los on the S2.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p4/S2Avant/DSC00105-1.jpg
The one on the right has 280bhp, the one on the left is my new toy as of Tuesday this week. :D
There are a few S2s in and around Sheffield and we all pull together.

fraze
05-08-2007, 08:25 PM
Drive down to Shefield and we'll fix it for you.
Bring some biscuits and a note book
Don't take it to any garage unless you know they know the S2 inside out.
Garages have a history of breaking S2s as they don't understand them.
We have vagcom and a set of blanking plugs to pressurise the intake system to able to test for boost leaks. This is the single most common cause of power los on the S2.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p4/S2Avant/DSC00105-1.jpg
The one on the right has 280bhp, the one on the left is my new toy as of Tuesday this week. :D
There are a few S2s in and around Sheffield and we all pull together.

have you any ideas what it could i am rapidly running out of patients with it, av started using my vr6 instead, people have left ideas but so far it's none of them, could the turbo be worn out, theres no smoke or play in the bearing but am runnong out of ideas it just doesnt pull like a turbo should.

S2AVANT
06-08-2007, 09:16 PM
Boost leak?
Fit a boost gauge and then report back.
You can T into the ECU boost line which is behind the glovebox.
You have to have a boost gauge to diagnose problems with these cars. Or have Vagcom pluged in, which isn't easy as the plugs are in the fuse box under the bonnet.
BTW What colour is it?