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View Full Version : Handbrake problem 99 Passat



rotax800
16-09-2011, 09:53 PM
Hi,

I was changing the rear brake pads today, and when pushing in the brake piston on the left side i noticed that it went in very easy compared to the other side.

Almost no effort was needed to push it in.. I didnt think any more about it. Installed the new brake pads and started to push the break pedal to get things working again.
I believe the piston works, as i could see movement on the pads when i pushed the brake pedal.

Everything seemed to work just fine.. until i checked the handbrake. It seems like its seized on the left side. When i pull the handbrake the "arm" on the caliper does not travel the same amount as on the other side. And it does not return when i pull off the handbrake again.

Is there a problem with my caliper? Or is there a problem with the handbrake mechanism itself? I dont know how this work, so any help is much appreciated.

Thanks guys!

Peter D
17-09-2011, 08:50 AM
Were the dust covers intact. Did you wind the calipers back in. There initially push back but then you have to wind the caliper back in. Regards Peter

rotax800
17-09-2011, 11:29 AM
The covers where intact. Also i winded in the brake calipers as you said above. I'm going to the workshop now, and will try too hook off the wire and see if it is the wire or the caliper itself causing the problem. Can the handbrake mechanism be disassembled and serviced?

Peter D
17-09-2011, 12:03 PM
You need to inspect the lever mechanisms but you also need to allow the handbrake to adjust, excercise the hand brake firmly 20 times. How much resistance did the RHX piston put up. Did you have to use a G clamp or would it go back with your fingures. Regards Peter

rotax800
17-09-2011, 04:43 PM
I just got back from the workshop. I got a friend to exercise the handbrake MANY times, while I was back at the caliper helping the arm to return position. After a while we got it to return itself, and it seems like its working. How many times do i have to use the handbrake for it to adjust? I tried several times, but it does not seem to fully block the wheel. Also, after this job and the new brake pads installed i pushed the pedal several times to get the pistons back where they should be. But it seems like after a little while its soft again? I have not disconnected any brake fluid lines or anything. So it should heal up? Or what do you think?

I used the special tool for both side pistons.

rotax800
17-09-2011, 08:10 PM
Update:

The handbrake DOES block the wheels. But i have to pull it all the way up for it too block the wheels. Solution?

Also the left side rear rotor gets much hotter than the right side one. Could this be the new pads "breaking in" ? Normal?

It also seems as the pedal hardened up after a ride. So that should be okay now.

Thanks guys

Lincs Vagcom
17-09-2011, 11:16 PM
It sounds like the handbrake cable auto adjuster requires reseting. The adjuster should be on the underside of the car below the handbrake. Can't remember how much to adjust it by, but will have a look in my Haynes manual in the morning.

rotax800
17-09-2011, 11:25 PM
Ok, Im awaiting your response. Is it the manual adjustment beneath the middle console inside the car you are talking about? Or is there an automatic adjustment as well? Thanks man!

Lincs Vagcom
18-09-2011, 05:28 AM
It's the automatic adjusters on the underside of the car.

Just follow the images below. I found the worst part is its limited space.

148351483614837

Peter D
23-09-2011, 02:12 PM
The handbrake adjusters are manual under the car and automatic at the caliper. As you had the LHR piston press back so easily yet it is now getting hot, either implies it is doing all the work or it is binding. The return spring for the handbrake levers at the rear of the caliper is very stong. If it was not returning then either the shaft has seized in the rear of the caliper or the spring has broken Regards Peter

scotty33
27-09-2011, 11:05 PM
A basic test of the cable setting is can both 'arms' on the calipers be seen to return to their stops? if not, when you force one arm back to it's stop, does the other arm pull forward? if yes, the handbrake cable(s) is adjusted too tight and needs to be slackened off, this will allow the self adjustment in the caliper to work properly.
If the left side is running hotter, something is causing the brake to bind, could be the piston/bore, but you said it wound in easily, could aslo be the sliding pins? Are the little dust boots ok?
There could be a servo problem, if water has entered it at some point, I think it could cause dragging at the caliper(s) that move most easily.

Link shows an older design Girling caliper, I know the way the handbrake 'arms' operate is different, but dissassembling the wetside, I believe is the same:

http://20v.org/brakere.htm