Intake Manifold Runner adaption

[big]

I've been getting the faults listed later on my 2006 A6 2.7 TDi Avant and diagnosed the bank 2 intake manifold (swirl flap) motor as being faulty (that's the one on the right hand side when you stand in front of the car). You could see that it was not doing the same thing as the other motor. There are some good forum entries which have helped a lot in diagnosis.

Found a new motor on eBay, without the flaps. £95, brand new, bargain.
Part number 059129086

I have read on the Ross-Tech wiki that I need to adapt the new motor when I replace it. Motor hasn't arrived yet so tonight I thought I'd just try the adaption instructions using vagcom from the Ross-Tech website which says that it's group 142, in the basic setting of the engine controller. That group is not found, which made me wonder if there is one group number for bank 1 and another for bank 2?

Anyone done this before, it seems like a fairly common fault.

<info>
012597 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Lower Stop not Reached
P3135 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 15
Mileage: 217228 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.06.10
Time: 18:03:08

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 12.24 V
Duty Cycle: 88.8 %
Duty Cycle: 20.5 %
Duty Cycle: 20.5 %

004120 - Intake Manifold Runner (Bank 2): Lower limit not reached
P1018 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 105
Mileage: 217228 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.06.10
Time: 18:22:03

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 756 /min
Torque: 39.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.60 V
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %
Duty Cycle: 88.8 %
Duty Cycle: 80.9 %

Adaption procedure from Ross-Tech

Intake Manifold Runner

Prerequisites:

* Ignition ON
* Engine OFF
* System voltage at least 11.0 V.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 142
[Go!]
Activate the Basic Setting.
[ON/OFF/Next]
Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP. O.K.".
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

* Switch Ignition OFF for at least 60 seconds.

[06audia6]

I had an intake runner problem at one time, I found it was a cracked vacuum line. Might be something to look into.


Sam

[Crasher]

059129086 changed to 059 129 711 T then 059 129 71 AG then 059 129 711 AF then 059 129 71 AL then 059 129 711 BP then 059 129 711 BQ and finally (so far this week) to complete unit 059 129 711 CG

It is an extremely common fault for the V157 and V275 motors to come up on a code read on these engines and normally you need the complete manifold to go with it and this is why you find the motors for sale on fleaBay as people have bought them (059 129 086) and then found they will have to by the complete manifold that comes with the motor, 059 129 711 CG (left) and 712 BL (right) so they end up with two motors and stick on up for sale to cut their loses.

Check fuse 12 is ok in the main fuse box in the plenum chamber.

Without the VAG tester VAS 6395/1 it is not possible to carry out the motor test so most people just fit them and hope for the best. Sometimes Group 142 works.

[big]

Thanks crasher, thats very helpful. More part numbers I can look for.
Why do you have to replace the whole unit? What is it about the flaps that breaks or means that just replacing the motor does not clear the fault.

BTW
When the motor turned up I plugged it in and it exhibited eactly the same fault as the knackered one. It would do a limit to limit test, when you turned the ignition on, but would not actuate when you were revving above 1250 rpm. I can swap the LH bank swirl flap motor to the RH bank and the fault moves so I know that it's the motor.

FWIW The ebay seller never communicated with me when I asked for a refund and after a week eBay gave me my money back. They sent me a postage voucher and I sent it back to him.

Thanks, this is a great forum. Big

[Crasher]

The linkages wear and they do not come with the motor, they only come as the complete assembly. If it was a 1970’s British car you would be able to buy every single part you need individually, that’s progress for you!

[vagcar]

Thanks crasher, thats very helpful. More part numbers I can look for.
Why do you have to replace the whole unit? What is it about the flaps that breaks or means that just replacing the motor does not clear the fault.

BTW
When the motor turned up I plugged it in and it exhibited eactly the same fault as the knackered one. It would do a limit to limit test, when you turned the ignition on, but would not actuate when you were revving above 1250 rpm. I can swap the LH bank swirl flap motor to the RH bank and the fault moves so I know that it's the motor.

FWIW The ebay seller never communicated with me when I asked for a refund and after a week eBay gave me my money back. They sent me a postage voucher and I sent it back to him.

Thanks, this is a great forum. Big
Did you sort this with a complete unit in the end?

[big]

No, my current plan - when I get time -is to add 3mm of washers to raise the motor from the engine block. Apparently this takes out the play in the linkage. There was a discussion on the audi sport forum and I thought I'd give that a go. Backup plan is to manufacture new linkages using ball and socket joints available from RS Components.

Given that I can't complain about the MPG or the smooth running of the engine and the MOT tests have not focussed on dashboard management information lights then the incentive went away.

Cheers, Rob

[vagcar]

Thanks for the reply! ok ive messed about with this all day..... basically the flaps are the problem and the fix is replace the lot. When you buy the motor & the manifold ive been told by a very good source that they come preset with the parameters set at factory on assembly and therefore"plug and play", however if you only buy the motor they have to have a basic setting performed, according to the V.A.S. basic setting channel 55 sets up the bank 2 motor to its upper and lower limits. i kept getting the same fault with the new motor, however when i put the old unit back on and final controlled it with out the linkage attached it decided to work, on bank 2. switched it to bank 1 and nothing, so in my opinion switching the motors doesn't necesarily prove anything? i then built it back up and with a little bit of pressure levered the motor ball joint by about 2mm upwards, reset the fault log and road tested. All good for now but positive the fault will return soon enough. Gonna change the whole lot to be sure of a fix.

[Crasher]

This is why you see so many new slightly used motors on fleaBay, people think a motor will fix it but then find it won't and they go back for the flaps and find to their horror they come with the motor. With this problem, don't re-invent the wheel. This has been an ongoing issue now for a few years and the known cure is a new complete flap unit.