brasiliangringo
08-06-2011, 11:40 PM
This is the easy way, instructions for UK CAR S4 2001.5 ie right hand drive. Bank 2 is Passenger side, i made the mistake fitting the wrong way around after some confusion online reading a US post..
I had this code..
17866 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236): Short to Ground
P1458 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
So i did this:
1. Jack up passenger side of car, make safe etc..
2. Unless im missing part of the 'belly pan' at the rear then i didnt need to remove anything. Just move under the car until you can see picture i have uploaded - now you will see EGT nut etc.. you need a torch..14028
3. Remove the inner CV heat shield by unscrewing the allen key bolts either side (you can see one in the photo circled - green tinge on it). I then flexed the heat shield and the top mount attachment broke* (!) but the two screws either side hold it in fine so no big deal.. Removing it gives you room to work the FLARE SPANNER 17mm/15mm which you can buy from halfords, then use a 3/8 inch drive sliding tbar and fit into the other end of the 15mm to get some leverage. Spray EGT bolt with WD40 some time before.. Get a few quarter turns on it and you should be able to unscrew by hand.
Up top under bonnet..
4. Take off plastic cowling, one with 'Bi turbo' written on it and the two above, either side of it.
5. Unbolt air distributor pipe aka y pipe (big metal horizontal one staring up at you - as per my profile pic) by unscrewing the 3 bolts.
6. Unclip distributor hose (big black one) between air-box and distributor pipe/y pipe.
7. You now have some play ie you can lift the metal y pipe a little and maneuver the plastic hose to access the EGT plug nuts (one either side). Use a little ratchet, few inch extension and swivel adapter on the socket to allow you to bend the ratchet to 'mount' the nuts.. I also pulled off the N75 which is next to the EGTs which is harnessed by some rubber around a metal upright (this helps you to move the pipes around.. Its fiddly getting to the nuts holding in the plug end of the EGTs but worse getting them back on without dropping them into the engine bay so get some spare nuts if needs be..
8. Pull up sensor end from below, replace and lower new (or in my case 2nd hand) sensor back down same way as old one up, then fit the clip end back on its rails and nuts back on (thats the fiddly bit).
Back down below:
9. Fit EGT sensor back into its socket. I found it took a few minutes to find the thread by hand, like sticking your hand up a cows backside such is the keyhole nature of the undersided part of the job.. then tightened and finished off with spanner..
10. Replace Inner cv heat shield!!
*I could not be bothered to wait 3 days for a 17mm Flexi Head Flare nut spanner to arrive (laser 4035 product code FYI) , hence i prodded and pushed and the inner cv heat shield top attachment snapped, but with flexihead you would probably not need to break the top heat shield attachment to gain leverage.. Not that it needs a top fastener imo, its a 100 gram piece of material not load bearing which is held adequately by 2 nuts..
Total job time 45 mins if you've done it before or allow 2 hours if not. With the heat shield out the way, accessing the nut is not that hard, bit fiddly but ok. Like everything, its all about having the right tools. The main one here being a flared 17inch spanner, ideally flexi head OR get a flared 17mm flexi socket for your ratchet.
I had this code..
17866 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236): Short to Ground
P1458 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
So i did this:
1. Jack up passenger side of car, make safe etc..
2. Unless im missing part of the 'belly pan' at the rear then i didnt need to remove anything. Just move under the car until you can see picture i have uploaded - now you will see EGT nut etc.. you need a torch..14028
3. Remove the inner CV heat shield by unscrewing the allen key bolts either side (you can see one in the photo circled - green tinge on it). I then flexed the heat shield and the top mount attachment broke* (!) but the two screws either side hold it in fine so no big deal.. Removing it gives you room to work the FLARE SPANNER 17mm/15mm which you can buy from halfords, then use a 3/8 inch drive sliding tbar and fit into the other end of the 15mm to get some leverage. Spray EGT bolt with WD40 some time before.. Get a few quarter turns on it and you should be able to unscrew by hand.
Up top under bonnet..
4. Take off plastic cowling, one with 'Bi turbo' written on it and the two above, either side of it.
5. Unbolt air distributor pipe aka y pipe (big metal horizontal one staring up at you - as per my profile pic) by unscrewing the 3 bolts.
6. Unclip distributor hose (big black one) between air-box and distributor pipe/y pipe.
7. You now have some play ie you can lift the metal y pipe a little and maneuver the plastic hose to access the EGT plug nuts (one either side). Use a little ratchet, few inch extension and swivel adapter on the socket to allow you to bend the ratchet to 'mount' the nuts.. I also pulled off the N75 which is next to the EGTs which is harnessed by some rubber around a metal upright (this helps you to move the pipes around.. Its fiddly getting to the nuts holding in the plug end of the EGTs but worse getting them back on without dropping them into the engine bay so get some spare nuts if needs be..
8. Pull up sensor end from below, replace and lower new (or in my case 2nd hand) sensor back down same way as old one up, then fit the clip end back on its rails and nuts back on (thats the fiddly bit).
Back down below:
9. Fit EGT sensor back into its socket. I found it took a few minutes to find the thread by hand, like sticking your hand up a cows backside such is the keyhole nature of the undersided part of the job.. then tightened and finished off with spanner..
10. Replace Inner cv heat shield!!
*I could not be bothered to wait 3 days for a 17mm Flexi Head Flare nut spanner to arrive (laser 4035 product code FYI) , hence i prodded and pushed and the inner cv heat shield top attachment snapped, but with flexihead you would probably not need to break the top heat shield attachment to gain leverage.. Not that it needs a top fastener imo, its a 100 gram piece of material not load bearing which is held adequately by 2 nuts..
Total job time 45 mins if you've done it before or allow 2 hours if not. With the heat shield out the way, accessing the nut is not that hard, bit fiddly but ok. Like everything, its all about having the right tools. The main one here being a flared 17inch spanner, ideally flexi head OR get a flared 17mm flexi socket for your ratchet.