Drivshaft gater - replace???

[vroooOOOM]

I have a split in the nearside outer gaiter:mad: I had put a temporary glue together one on just for the MOT now this has as I expected come off so I need to fit a new one.
Anyone have a tutorial or advice on how to do this:confused:, I am quite competent at working on my Passat but it always better to get some inside knowledge before hand.
Any advice appreciated and thank you in anticipation.:beerchug:

VW wanted £35 + for an original I have purchased a copy one for £4.75 with grease pack and clips.
Cheers vroooOOOM
VW Passat Estate 1.9 TDI w Reg 142K.

[phil miller]

ok i will do my best bud, jack the car up and remove the wheel, then get someone to press the brake pedal and undo the drive shaft nut/bolt in the middle of the hub, then undo one of the bottom ball joints, so you can then remove the joint from the hub, once removed cut the clips on the old boot and slide it up the D/shaftnow use a copper hammer to drive off the joint (having someone hold the shalf will help, remove old boot slide new boot on and pack with grease and refit the joint, replace joint in to hub and tighten up, hope this helps mate

[kenney]

Be aware not all the universl gaiters fit,otherwise the gaiter can be replaced by loosening the rear lower track-control link,and pull the constant velocity joint out to the rear,you can now access the joint to replace the boot

[charlescampion]

NB You should not have to touch any suspension components

See previous post on this subject for Passat B5 130 TDI

[kenney]

NB You should not have to touch any suspension components

See previous post on this subject for Passat B5 130 TDI
True but for the sake of removing the one ball joint it makes the job so much easier

[vroooOOOM]

Thanks for all the advice guys, it was starting to make some clicking sounds in the turns, I took the wheel off and found the Gaiter had only come off the outer end so repacked the greese and refitted, I've driven it round the block but time will tell if I need a recon drive shaft.

RThanks again vroooOOOM

[Paulst]

NB You should not have to touch any suspension components

See previous post on this subject for Passat B5 130 TDI

I agree, there is no need to dismantle the suspension at all. The driveshaft can be taken out without!! It would be easier with a 2nd person to help turn the hub to a position to remove the driveshaft.

I would also recommend replacing the HUB Bolt as I beleive this is a "stretch bolt". If you get the VW Kit it comes with it.

[andy e]

as i have said before draper do a tool that looks like a big plastic ice cream cone using this tool you do not need to dismantle the joint, the boot just slides up the 'cone' and over the joint, time to change boots on a sharan [both sides] about 2hrs including a cup of tea, [i will get part no when i go into shed later]

[kenney]

as i have said before draper do a tool that looks like a big plastic ice cream cone using this tool you do not need to dismantle the joint, the boot just slides up the 'cone' and over the joint, time to change boots on a sharan [both sides] about 2hrs including a cup of tea, [i will get part no when i go into shed later]
Yes but these are special gaitors,the rubber compound is more elastic,you can not fit original gaitors with this equipment

[zollaf]

i tried one of those cones, and ended up slinging it in the bin. far easier to just smack the cv joint with a copper mallet to get it off the shaft. after all, you still need to get the shaft out the hub to do it.

[DSG4ME]

Here you are mate, written by yours truly, suspension is the same.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/150673-how-2-replace-a-cv-bootjoint/


If the CV is clacking now, go to GSF and ask for a GSP CV kit, it has a new end and everything you need clips and grease wise, plus instructions, it's about £35 iirc, the only other option is to swap goth sides over so the bearings now drive against the unworn side of the CV, but for £35 I would get the new kit myself.

[martin1810]

The cones and stretchy boots are fantastic for difficult joints but you must get top quality stretchy boots. I have even seen someone put the boot over the "other end" of the shaft and then slide it down to the joint. That was done using a hydraulic stretcher, not the cone.

[Paulst]

i tried one of those cones, and ended up slinging it in the bin. far easier to just smack the cv joint with a copper mallet to get it off the shaft. after all, you still need to get the shaft out the hub to do it.

Guys, you don't need to do or use either. The CV Joint pops off the driveshaft by securing the Joint and placing the old HUB bolt back into the Joint and tightening. This is by far the easiest method and cheapest method.

[A4 Lad]

Guys, you don't need to do or use either. The CV Joint pops off the driveshaft by securing the Joint and placing the old HUB bolt back into the Joint and tightening. This is by far the easiest method and cheapest method.

This is true but in my opion, only if you have an air gun or impact gun, if not, smack it with a hammer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk as I cant be ***** turning on my laptop !

[zollaf]

Guys, you don't need to do or use either. The CV Joint pops off the driveshaft by securing the Joint and placing the old HUB bolt back into the Joint and tightening. This is by far the easiest method and cheapest method.
indeed it will, but only with hollow drive shafts, which most modern vw's seem to have. if its secured by a bolt, this will work, but if theres a nut on the end, its big hammer time. unless its a vauxhall and secured with a circlip that you unclip and the cv just falls off.
incidentally, those cones and stretchy boots makes me think how hard it is for a woman to give birth.

[martin1810]

incidentally, those cones and stretchy boots makes me think how hard it is for a woman to give birth. :biglaugh::biglaugh:

[kenney]

I don't think i would like to experience that Martin

[yaman]

incidentally, those cones and stretchy boots makes me think how hard it is for a woman to give birth.

It just had to be invented by a gynaecologist :bigeyes:


Regards
Jim

[vroooOOOM]

Well I did fit a after market gaiter one of the glue on types which wrap around and then glue along the edge worked fine in fact its still on there, I did repack the joint with grease but now the joint is making some clicking noises, I think I need to replace the cv joint, any pointers on this guys? like special tools needed? part No.????, When I had the last MOT it flagged up that the both top ball joints where worn well not the ball joint but where the pinch bolt goes through the top front arms I may as well go the whole hog and replace these too, but my main concern is the cv joint. any help appreciated.

[vroooOOOM]

I just found this link on one of the posts its BRILLIANT.:o


http://audi.kris-hansen.com/cvboot.htm

[fleamoo]

Did my n/s outer cv boot recently, and found the following:
(car= passat tdi 130 pd se saloon, reg 10/2003 5sp manual box hollow driveshafts)
Loosened hub bolt, jacked car up, located axle stands, removed road wheel, removed hub bolt.
1) There was plenty of room to remove the driveshaft without splitting any suspension joints. i removed the little foam/plastic splash guard,and used an m10 spline bit on the end of a long extension (two short ones joined!) to reach the gearbox flange bolts. once undone the shaft could be manoeuvred out. That was it, on my car!
2) The joint was held mucho securely on the shaft. After much hitting the joint with a hide mallet to no avail, i removed the inner circlip, visible after removing the old boot, and slid the plastic spacer and washer up the driveshaft. This gave the joint room to move a little on the driveshaft. Another tap with the mallet and it practically flew off. I can only guess that allowing the joint to move on the shaft when hit produces a slight "slide hammer" effect, requiring much less force to spring it over the retaining clip.
3) If you have hollow driveshafts, i would advise not to try and remove the joint using the hub bolt. You may damage the thread on the hub bolt and consequently the thread on the joint itself.
4) If for whatever reason you have to /want to separate the lower rear ball joint, be aware that 'standard' splitter tool jaws are too narrow @19mm, so you will need a long crowbar and hammer. You may also find that when the joint is released, the hub carrier springs away slightly so you need another (smaller!) crowbar to lever it back for reassembly.
5) And finally, i believe releasing the drivers side shaft is a bit more involved. Someone,somewhere did it by adjusting the track rod end, i think, to give more than full steering lock on that side,in order to get the necessary clearance.
As soon as the weather warms up i will do the drivers side boot anyway, before it splits, makes a right mess, and/or knackers the joint.
Hope all this lot helps.

[martin1810]

It might be worth pointing out that crap DIY joint splitters are often the wrong size jaws.
Professional tools come in various sizes.

[fleamoo]

True, they do, but the ones i've seen were at professional prices, which is fair enough i guess.
I even thought about buying a set, but i wasn't sure they would fit into that particular location.
Anybody recommend a set?

[vroooOOOM]

oooPS i need to replace a control arm - front upper - anyone know where to buy one at the right price???

[caldirun]

[QUOTE=fleamoo;620992]
5) And finally, i believe releasing the drivers side shaft is a bit more involved. Someone,somewhere did it by adjusting the track rod end, i think, to give more than full steering lock on that side,in order to get the necessary clearance.
QUOTE]
I posted that, just measure the setting before releasing the locknut on the tie rod end, screw it almost out and there is room to remove the joint (don't put the boot clip on until you have replaced the shaft as the new boot will be too inflexible to fit with it in place)

[Chipped2]

The only proper way is to dismantle the complete CV joint marking the cages for correct reassembly. Balls need keeping in their respective sockets too. Old grease is removed. Then you can be sure that there is no water or grit and the correct amount of grease has been inserted. Doesn't take long once the joint is on the bench. Reckon on VW boots lasting four years, bit longer if you are lucky.

The VW ones for the 1994-97 Passats were more akin to a black polythene but seem to be everlasting as we have one in the family with 240k. Pig to fit though as they were very stiff and probably didn't contribute to Vags profits!

[caldirun]

The only proper way is to dismantle the complete CV joint marking the cages for correct reassembly. Balls need keeping in their respective sockets too. Old grease is removed. Then you can be sure that there is no water or grit and the correct amount of grease has been inserted. Doesn't take long once the joint is on the bench. Reckon on VW boots lasting four years, bit longer if you are lucky.

The VW ones for the 1994-97 Passats were more akin to a black polythene but seem to be everlasting as we have one in the family with 240k. Pig to fit though as they were very stiff and probably didn't contribute to Vags profits!
When I did mine (about 50,000 miles ago) I stripped each joint completely and cleaned them. When refitted they were filled with VW supplied grease, they are still silent and play-free. I did consider keeping the cages and balls in the respective order but decided it was not possible or necessary, the proof of the pudding as they say!

[vroooOOOM]

Well I just received a new cv joint from J&N cv's they sent the wrong one, I gave the reg. No. + the engine No. Turned out the bolt on mine is 17mm hex, and not 24mm as I thought, J&N are exchanging the part for me to be fair, hopefully it'll be the correct one, cost £20 including P+P and comes with boot and grease, looks very impressive, just need the right one.

[vroooOOOM]

I just found this link on one of the posts its BRILLIANT.:o


http://audi.kris-hansen.com/cvboot.htm

Well I've replaced the cv joint now turned out J&R cv joints came through for me, initially they sent wrong joint but exchanged without further charge, I referenced the weblink above and everything went well, my vw passat estateTDI 115bhp w reg. was build when parts were mixed, for want of a better word, J&R cv cost me £19.99 all in original part would have been 160 plus I think another 80 for an exchange what a rip off:zx11:, well thats my opinion anyway:p, I also changed both front upper control arms got my parts from partco coast £63 for 2 all in could have got em cheaper but compared to original part price of over £90 I got a bargain, yes they're made to standard and concidering my old girl has now done 145k its not worth spending much more other than to get the few last years out of her.
J&R Trading UK. are tops.:beerchug:

[fleamoo]

Hope members don't mind me reviving this thread.
Drivers side boot split about a month after the other side. Got the driveshaft off as per caldirun, without splitting any suspension joints.
Thought it was worth mentioning a couple of things:
1) The track rod end has to be adjusted right out to the end of the threads. This is just about the limit of reach of the flexible brake hose, so i loosened off the bracket securing the brake pipe/hose union. This was to check if any strain was being placed on the hose.
2) On reassembly i found the easiest way to relocate the driveshaft was to loosely bolt it with a couple of bolts at the gearbox end first, then relocate the hub end. In other words, the best clearance is with the gearbox end in position. I guess this would be the best way to dismantle it as well, but i didn't think of it at the time.
3)This method worked on my year and model, but clearance is tight. As long as you carefully mark the position of the track rod end before adjusting it out, you've nothing much to lose by trying.(Remember to retighten the brake pipe/hose bracket afterwards)

[David Carkett]

Hi there, a little help is needed please.
I have the driveshaft out of the vehicle, but the cv joint will not release. I have tryed fitting the hub bolt to 'pop' the joint off. All this dose is distort the bolt, making it very hard to remove from the hub. Hitting it with a copper hammer also fails, do I just need to get more violant?
Any help would be greatley apprecated.

[caldirun]

There are 2 kinds of drive shaft, solid and hollow, one you can screw the bolt through, the other you can't. Just put the shaft in a vice and hold the spline in your hand with a rag then hit the joint sharply with a weighty hammer/mallet. All you have to release is a spring ring but it needs a sharp hit to jump out of the groove.

[David Carkett]

Thanks, I will give it a go today.

[David Carkett]

It worked perfectley, so much easer off the vehicle and in the vice.
As said above you cant use the bolt method on hollow drive shafts. just a hefty whack in the right place.