do we have any bikers on board?

[Eshrules]

ok, stop booing, I'm keeping the 4 wheels, but I'm also looking into getting a set of 2 wheels for the weekends (post-xmas).

brother and best friend are now on a pair of 600's, after having passed their test and it's renewed the itch.

If we've got any bikers on board, any advice is greatfully received, in regards to anything.

ideal first bike, the kit to have, practical advice, anything.

I'm 2 months off starting my DAS course, aside from knowing I want a 600 - I've been looking at bandits, CBRFs (seem to be quite rare?) and ninjas.

budget will be around £800 for the bike.

I won't be intending to commute on the bike, it'll be mainly a weekend bike. It needs to be a little forgiving, but enough grunt to have a bit of fun (hence the 600).

the main area I'm struggling with is safety gear, helmets especially. There's a 1001 differing opinions out there, so any guidance on this would be helpful.

I think that's it for now!

[Hex69]

1st piece of advice, don't ask Crasher. ;)

I think we all know his thoughts on bikes!!

2nd don't scrimp on the safety gear, we'd miss your acerbic comments. :D

[zollaf]

if you must have 2 wheels, then get a mountain bike and get fit at the same time.





not sent from an iphone using tapatalk.

[The Fingers]

The point to note here is the following:-

1st BIKE & 600cc don't mix very well.

if it is your first bike I would suggest getting a 2 stroke 125 field bike (albeit road registered) something like a Yam DTR 125, de restrict it and you have a 2 stroke screamer that will pull about a ton and get to 60 quicker than most VW TDI's. Keep this for a year and then move up.

Upright trials bikes are going to be a lot more forgiving that a leant over racer. If you drop a road bike like a CBR is going to be goosed, trail bikes tend to bounce better and 9 out of 10 times you pick it up and ride on!

I had a few bikes until i had kids, started on a pedda at 16, then a TZR125 and a DTR125 (best bike i had would have another tomorrow) after i learnt to ride i then moved up to an RGV 250 and ended my riding on a CBR 400 RR (jap import - i am only liccle and didnt feel comfortable on the CBR600.

The 2 strokes are also very easy / a joy to pull apart.

I bounced a few and can confirm the right gear is a must, i had the top half sorted (jacket / decent gloves and a one off helmet) however bottom half was usually jeans and trainers, these arn't the best when sliding down the road at 60 ish on your ***, i still have the gravel rash scars to prove it 12 years on!! - SO GET KITTED OUT

One final tip if you do get in the saddle - if you get a slip in a corner - Kick The Floor, saved me many times during my early racing to Matlock Bath Days, those were the days.

I want another now :biglaugh:, there is nothing like the smell of 2 stroke in the morning.

If this isnt your first bike then ignore my waffle and take the plunge!!

[Bratty]

I got the "Bike bug" in 1996 and did a two-day direct entry course in Bristol, then after passing I went out and bought a CBR900RR fireblade. Have to say "The learning Curve is quite steep!".

In 2004 I bought a new CBR600RR and what a revelation:D, it was incredibly easy to ride (compared to the Fireblade) as its frame was so well designed and compact but it was Very Very Quick!
A modern 600 sports bike just needs respect and a whole lot of awareness!! (Plus you can restrict the horsepower output to something like 40-50 to get yourself started).

Safety equipment- Buy the best you can afford, and do not forget a back protector.

Dunk

[plastoman]

I took an intensive course and passed my test about 15 years ago. The first bike I bought after getting my licence was a 550 Zephyr, which in terms of size, weight, etc isn't a million miles from the Bandit. A friend of mine had a Bandit and a Fazer, both of which I think would be great for a first bike - the Fazer had a tendency to lift the front wheel a bit too easily though.
Regardless of what you go for, it's how you use it that will determine the state of your health! Learn to ride within your limits, be VERY aware of what everyone else on the road is doing and stay lucky.
As for helmets, I've always been a Shoei man myself but would be worth do a bit of research on bike mag reviews.

Cheers

Jim

[turbine2]

Safety gear:
Helemts are dammed good nowadays. A £100 lid will do you as a weekend thing, but don't buy second hand. Generally I'd go Airi or Shoei depending on your head shape (you'll be one or the other). Look for ACU Gold and the BS label (I can never remember if green or blue is the better one, I think it's blue). The helmet shold be tight to put on but not pressure on your forehead or jaw, in this case chipmunk cheeks are a good sign. Also, put the helmet on and get a friend to hold the chin bar (I'm assuming a full face job here). If you can rotate your head inside the helmet it's too lose.
Next thing is gloves. The natural thing to do when you come off is to put your hands out, which will be bad news even at low speeds. Get a good pair, preferably double thickness leather on the palms and preferably no seams on the palms either. Budget around £30 for a reasonable pair.
For jackets, leaher's good but not waterproof, textiles are waterproof (ish) but expensive. Look for padding / armour in the shoulders, elbows and back. If you need a hanger to hang it up then you're probably looking in the right area. Budget around £150-£300 for a good jacket.
Jeans are important. A good set of leathers will set you back around £100-£150 and will have armour on the hips and knees. Don't bother with knee sliders, if you're good enough to do that sort of thing you won't be asking advise here, and if you're getting your knee down without experience I'm guessing the next bits will be hip, shoulder, head.... The alternative is textile trousers, which will be waterproof (ish again), and armoured in the same places. It's also worth looking for zips on the ankles so you can adjust them to be over or inside your boots.
You could go for an all in one suit, but they're much more expensive.
Boots, also very important. Things to look for here are ankle protection (think about a 400lb bike resting on your ankle), shin protection, felxibility in the ankle for dorsiflection and adjustment in the tightness of the boot upper. Also, work out if you're one of these people who like a flat sole or a normal one (I prefer normal ones, but there are those out there who prefer flat). Budget between £75 and £150 for a good set. Oh, and accept they won't be waterproof (no matter what the company says).
An all in one rain suit that will be waterproof and folds back into a small pack will be about £20. Personally I prefer a zip up the middle rather than a diagonal one that zips down a leg but that's just perference really.
The Bike:
For a first 600 bike, my reccomendation would be something that's designed for torque rather than all up power, and minimal fairing. While you're not guaranteed to throw it down the road, it's always a possiblity and the less fairing, the lower the repair cost. Honda are generally good (so a hornet or whatever they replaced the hornet with), the Bandit is an excellent bike but prone to corrosion issues, diversions were great (having a shaft helped them maintain a reputation with couriers) but an £800 bike is likely to need some attention. If it's got RR in the title it's likely to have been thrashed to hell and back, been down the road a few times and 'ridden like it was stolen'.

Other than that, learn to enjoy the ride rather than the race and you'll do just fine.

[Eshrules]

The reason I've opted to go for a 600, as opposed to a (imho, rather whiney) 125 is because I'm hoping, once I have some road time under my belt, to start doing longer trips on it - there's potential for a lad/bikers holiday next year, so that's what I'm working towards. Running a 125 on a trip like that isn't, from reading around, going to be much fun.

The bandit preference comes from being around them for years, mechanically, I'm a complete n00b with bikes, but everyone I know on bikes has or has had a bandit 600 at some point.

Turbine - your post is, frankly, awesome, thank you very much.

Both the hornet and diversion are bikes I've come across, but my budget doesn't seem to drag up many decent examples. I'm not scared to get grubby and spend a few quid on bringing a sub-standard bike up to par though.

The point regards the fairing is a 'fair' (ha!) one, I don't intend to bin it, but I prefer the looks of the naked bikes anyway.

In terms of leather vs textiles, am I safe to presume that standards dictate they're both as safe as each other? When I discuss this with the old school guys, they always swear by leather, they argue it's naturally tougher and harder wearing. My argument is leather doesn't breath too well and, as you've said, it's not the most waterproof.

I've been eyeing up a nice arai helmet at the local bike bits shop, currently having an end of season sale - there's some rather tasty sidi boots too, but at £250 I was a bit <rocks hand> about those!

[Issac Hunt]

If it's got RR in the title it's likely to have been thrashed to hell and back, been down the road a few times and 'ridden like it was stolen'.

Nothing like a sweeping statement eh?! I've only ever owned 'supersport' bikes and everyone has been treated perfectly. None were crashed nor had they been anywhere near a racetrack. They all covered minimal miles and were maintained, cleaned and polished regardless of cost. If you've paid almost 10k for a bike then you will look after it!

Any bike only goes as fast as you twist the throttle! I passed my test and started on a GSXR600 with no experience, no problems at all IMHO.

It's about what you want from a bike I reckon. I'd look for a CBR600 given your budget and usage comments. They are very capable and tend to last quite well, they are easy to maintain and there were lots of them sold hence second hand parts are readily available. If you can stretch your budget just by a few £100 then you'll open up a even bigger market of CBR6's.

As for kit, well it's a minefield as there is so much choice.

Make sure whatever helmet you choose has the ACU gold sticker on, it means the helmet has been saftey tested and approved - Don't be tempted by something cheap without this saftey mark. Some places will let you go for a test ride to see how comfy the lid is, worth a try if you havent a clue what brand you want. Personally I use Arai lids as they just seem to fit the shape of my head nicely but its a very individual thing.

Other than that, leathers or textiles is a personal choice, just buy the best you can (ideally containing CE approved armour) and never be tempted to go for a spin without weraing your kit!

[Eshrules]

I don't think he was necessarily intending for it to be a sweeping statement bud, I think we'd apply the clio sport rule of thumb here.

What I mean by that is, most (not all) clio sports and suchlike, will have been ragged to within an inch of their life. You'll always, however, get one that's been maintained regardless of cost and that's the one you want.

My concern with something like the GSXR is that it's apparently got a rather twitchy rear end - I want something that's a bit more forgiving.

I could probably stretch to around £1k for the right bike, you're not the first person to pass comment on the CBR's lifespan - can't go far wrong with a Honda!

Re the safety kit (specifically the lid) if there's one thing I've learnt from my horsey days, it's to protect the old noggin. I don't begrudge spending a small fortune on a helmet, sure it'll need renewing in a few years, but it's the only thing that seperates your head from the tarmac if you should ever part with your bike! Noted re the safety standards, thank you.

[Issac Hunt]

My concern with something like the GSXR is that it's apparently got a rather twitchy rear end - I want something that's a bit more forgiving.

I could probably stretch to around £1k for the right bike, you're not the first person to pass comment on the CBR's lifespan - can't go far wrong with a Honda!


Well for whats it worth my GSXR never missed a beat, handling wise it was great IMHO. I think a lot of talk you read on the 'net about bike handling is from people who think they should be in MotoGP but dont quite have the ability to back up what they say!

You will find the limits (of all road bikes) when pushed very hard but mere mortal road riders like me just do not have the ability to push a bike to its extremes. You wont come close to what your bike is capable of for a long time if ever) Just test ride them all and go with what feels right.

£1k should get you a decent-ish CBR6, I be tempted toward the CBR due to its availabilty and better resistance to age/corrosion than the other Jap 600's.

[turbine2]

The reason I've opted to go for a 600, as opposed to a (imho, rather whiney) 125 is because I'm hoping....

I'll be honest, I think many 125s are, well not exactly dangerous, but need more care to ride. Yes, they're lower power and lighter but to ride one well you need a certain amount of technical ability that new riders just won't have. It's like that thing about a sharper tool being safer than a blunt one. A 600 tuned for torque (like the bandit) is a great starter bike in my opinion as you've got enough power and torque that you can concertrate on the things that are likely to help you as a rider long term (positioning, throttle control, observation) without having to worry about the technical things (getting revs to gearing spot on for a change, maintaining inertia, balance). Don't get me wrong, those things are important too, but can come with experience on the 600. When the laws were changed and people started to lean on bigger bikes I thought that was a good thing. Hell, my wife learned on a 600 and her first bike was a hornet and the only 'offs' she had were at stationary (once care of a **** poor service by a certain gike group that are now defunct, once on a hill where she didn't get her foot down in time).


In terms of leather vs textiles, am I safe to presume that standards dictate they're both as safe as each other?

Well.... It's a bit horses for courses really. Leather is good, hard wearing and generally less 'grippy' on the road if you're sliding down it, but it needs looking after, isn't waterproof and is difficult to wash. Textiles are breathable, generally lighter, generally warmer and tend to be less restrictive in movement, but they're more expensive. Being honest, I think it's more down to personal preference. A good leather jacket will work as well as a good textile jacket and anything you get in a bike shop is likely to do the job. I started out with a leather jacket and textile trousers and I still have that leather jacket (and still use it sometimes) 10 years on. I also have a textile jacket for winter / damp weather now. I did have a pair of leather jeans for a few years but they, er, must have shrunk over the years :-)

No problem on advice. I've been riding for years on all sorts of bikes (started with a little MZ125ETZ, moved on to a CB250RSa, then a Yamaha FJ1200, Honda Blackbird and now ride an R1150GS). Drop me a note if you need anything specifically.

[turbine2]

Nothing like a sweeping statement eh?!

You're right, it is a sweeping statement, I apologise. It's born of many years of experience with bikes and my general thoughs about what's good for a starter, but you're right. It sounds like you've had some good experiences with sports bikes though.

My old bike was a CBR1100XXX and there's no way I ever got near the edge of the envelope of that (even on the Isle of Mann).


Any bike only goes as fast as you twist the throttle! I passed my test and started on a GSXR600 with no experience, no problems at all IMHO.

Ah, there's a good phrase I've not heard in a long time. That, and "the throttle goes both ways". Excellent advice to be sure.

[Issac Hunt]

Ah, there's a good phrase I've not heard in a long time. That, and "the throttle goes both ways". Excellent advice to be sure.

It's a cheesy cliche but so true. Nearly every bike on the road is capable of annihilating the speed limits so the rider must retain some self control!

[bannedbiker]

I'll be honest and straight up to begin with, I haven't read all the post preceding this cuz they made my head hurt!

I dont have a bike at the mo, but I've been riding since I was less than 3 years old, I could ride before I could ride a pushbike. I've got 23 years of experience riding and working on bikes as well as a bit of racing.

If you are going to go straight in with a 600, you cant go wrong with a bandit. They are one of the most stable and forgiving sports-tourers out there. I had a couple situations on mine that more than likely would've resulted in me (and once the mrs too) sliding down the road on our arses! I've ridden plenty of other bikes around that size and the bandit is just he nicest for being a sports tourer! It can go if yu want it to, but it can be relaxed too. One of the worst 600's Ive ridden is the SV650S, the riding position is just a bit wrong and steals all your confidence! My mate's wife had one as her first bike, it spent more time on the floor than upright!

As far as kit goes, buy the best you can afford, but get it all, dont go out and blow your budget on a lid and jacket, then scrimp on boots, trousers and gloves. They are all important when you go down (and that is when,. not if!)
With your lid try on as many as you can and just find the one that fits you best. for my head it was always Shoei until I got My Roof Diversion. It should hold you snugly around the cheeks and your forehead but not so tight around your forehead that your gonna get a headache after a couple miles. Also remember that lids strech in, so I generally go for one that is ever so slightly too tight in the shop.
When you come off its natural instinct to put your hands out to save you, gloves matter!
Boots I've only ever had either Sidi and Alpinestars and intend to keep it that way, I trust them to look after me, they fit well (plus the look good!)
A lot of people dont like going down the one-piece leathers route, so If your going for acket and trousers its a good idea to find them with compatable zips to join them.
A lot of people go for textile jackets and trousers, but personally I prefer leather. I know textile is just as safe but the confidence you get from leathers cant be beat in my book. The only problem with that is that you then need waterproofs too!
CE armour in jackets and trousers is great (and works, I promise! I use it on my DH mountian bike too!)
If you prefer to be a bit more casual, Draggin Jeans are great. They look just like jeans but are woven from kevlar so are fully abrasion resistant (the old advert for them was a photo of a guy being dragged on his butt behind a blade at around 100mph!) and you can stick CE armour in them too.

Hope that helps!:approve:

[bannedbiker]

Any bike only goes as fast as you twist the throttle!


Very true, BUT another way to think about it is that a DT50 has the same 1/4 turn of a throttle as a TL1000 does. That 1/4 turn unleashes less then 10bhp for the DT, but over 125bhp for the TL...

[Eshrules]

I read about the CE/GP armor thing - I was under the impression for non-vital areas such as the hand, elbows and knees, it's fine (one use more often than not), but for the back and neck I ought to be looking at buying some tougher GP armor.

It's a tad confusing, but I think I'm getting there.

I'm going bits shopping again this weekend with the kid brother, so I'll be trying on some lids now I know what I'm supposed to be looking for!

[bannedbiker]

Have fun!:D

With the armour, again just buy the best you can afford! I've crashed wearing a jacket with no armour and not hurt myself, on the flipside I've crashed my mountian bike wearing full body armour and still hurt myself!

[Eshrules]

right.

kid brother's bagged himself a rather tidy ninja over the weekend - very tidy machine it is, not what I'll be going for however, after getting insurance quotes. With commuting, the likes of ninjas/gsxrs are coming in at around £650/700, take the humble bandit, by no means a slouch but a little less powered and I can insure that, with commuting, for £150 a year.

No brainer really, so I'm off to book my theory soon.

two questions. Any tips re the theory, or is it just a case of cramming as I did with the car?

insurance - I'm full comp'd on the polo, earning NCB on my policy. If I take out a seperate policy on a bike, in addition to the policy on the polo - can I earn NCB on the bike policy, for use on bikes as well? Probably a n00b question, but worth asking.

[5T3V3]

Hi - I've been riding for about 30 years! currently on a BMW R1200GS. If you want to get good advice on kit, then you would do well to visit a Heine Gericke franchise where they have decent kit to suit all budgets and are generally well informed, they are a good one stop shop. With regard to insurance try Carol Nash or Bennetts - your Bike NCB is separate to your car NCB, however if you have a decent car NCB you can often get it to count towards Bike insurance if you insuring a bike for the 1st time and as a new customer you may get an introductory discouint.

Cheers

5T3V3

[bannedbiker]

Hi - I've been riding for about 30 years! currently on a BMW R1200GS. If you want to get good advice on kit, then you would do well to visit a Heine Gericke franchise where they have decent kit to suit all budgets and are generally well informed, they are a good one stop shop. With regard to insurance try Carol Nash or Bennetts - your Bike NCB is separate to your car NCB, however if you have a decent car NCB you can often get it to count towards Bike insurance if you insuring a bike for the 1st time and as a new customer you may get an introductory discouint.

Cheers

5T3V3

You cant say your a biker when you ride a BMW...:p;)

As for Heine Gericke, they do know about good kit, but I always found their advice was for me to buy things that were just out of my budget...!
i always got on better with the guys in Just Bikers.

[turbine2]

two questions. Any tips re the theory, or is it just a case of cramming as I did with the car?

Theory is theory, same between car and bike. Cram away :-)


insurance - I'm full comp'd on the polo, earning NCB on my policy. If I take out a seperate policy on a bike, in addition to the policy on the polo - can I earn NCB on the bike policy, for use on bikes as well?
I've yet to find an insurance company that will look at car insurance NCB and allow for it to be applied to bike insurance but there may well be one out there. The policies are separate so you'll be running up two different NCBs. The gotcha is that although you'll be running up two NCBs, if you have an accident on one you have to report it to the other, which may impact both NCBs.

[Sam]

http://www.organdonation.nhs.uk/ukt/default.jsp

[bannedbiker]

http://www.organdonation.nhs.uk/ukt/default.jsp

Paramedics generally prefer bikers who wear one-piece leathers, it helps hold everything together when they're scraping you up off the road...

[Bratty]

One piece leathers are the best option but for one thing!

If you have the squits and are having a moment! Then you will soon see why the real-life option is "two-piece zipped together" racing leathers;).

Dunk

[5T3V3]

Theory is theory, same between car and bike. Cram away :-)


I've yet to find an insurance company that will look at car insurance NCB and allow for it to be applied to bike insurance but there may well be one out there. The policies are separate so you'll be running up two different NCBs. The gotcha is that although you'll be running up two NCBs, if you have an accident on one you have to report it to the other, which may impact both NCBs.

If you have an accident in either car or on a bike it will affect both insurance policies when it comes to renewal, this is because you would be percieved to be higher risk - they may be separate with regards to time when earning NCB but an accident will affect both policies (assuming you declare it as your supposed to that is) whats worse if your car is in an accident and is driven by your other half and is on your policy, then that will affect both too - this is another good reason to always protect your NCB

It is possible to get some sort of discount when starting out as a new rider with no bike NCB and always worth asking the company for it - if you have a long NCB on a car it demonstrates road experience and therefore decreased risk - I believe Carol Nash do an insurance policy to cover all vehicles you own and may even keep the NCBs separate for each vehicle. Insurance companys want your new business and will generally try to get it by offering discounts of some kind and will always try to beat or match any quote you've had- its upto individuals to phone around to get the best deals.

In my experience Comparison sites are fine but won't offer all the discounts they can until you phone them and get them to compete so always phone once your armed with all the info you need including things like excess, recovery, legal cover etc.

[Gearbox]

May be worth you spending a bit of time on a bike forum (lots around) You will get a great deal of experienced info there. Hein Gericke gear is usually very good and could well suit you. They used to get very good reviews in the bike press.

Not sure what you will get for £1000 that will not need work, but you could be lucky.

A learning alternative could be buying an older (say 80's) bike and restore it over the winter. You will learn a lot and 80's bikes will be the new classics soon, so there is a fair chance that you could get a return on your cash. The other side of the coin is that if you crash, then you have not lost too much money and you will know how to repair the bike. (Usually with second hand parts)

Good luck anyway and enjoy the rides.

[bannedbiker]

A learning alternative could be buying an older (say 80's) bike and restore it over the winter. You will learn a lot and 80's bikes will be the new classics soon, so there is a fair chance that you could get a return on your cash. The other side of the coin is that if you crash, then you have not lost too much money and you will know how to repair the bike. (Usually with second hand parts)



This is a good idea, I've done it twice. My first (road legal) bike I bought as a non-runner 9 months before I turned 16 and could get on the road. Having got it running, stripped it and tidied it up, then modified it slightly(;)) I knew everything about it for when it blew up. In fact it blew up so much that by the time I sold it a year later I could do a top-end rebuild in under an hour!

I did it again a couple years ago, the Mrs wanted to learn about how bikes work and are built, so we bought a little NSR125R pretty much in boxes (it fitted in the back of her fiesta...). She lost interest after a while (no, sorry, she was interested, just didn't have the time...) so it got left for a year or so. I ended up hurriedly finishing it and getting it on the road when my van was off the road as I needed to get to work and back. That was wierd, going from a bandit6 to an NSR125! Still, it is pretty satisfying riding a bike you know inside out and are proud of the job you've done on it. I never properly finished the NSR before I sold it, but the before and after pics are still pretty nice to see.

[Gearbox]

I have been messing with bikes for quite a while now. Originally as daily transport as I could not afford a car and had to learn to fix things for myself. Then as a leisure activity, so much easier to work on than a car as you need less space.

I have a 71 CB750 Honda that I restored and a 54 Gold Star in boxes (awaiting time and money). Normal riding is a Speed triple 955.

As you say, it is quite satisfying to fix one up. It does not need to cost too much as long as you spend a bit of time getting thimgs right. Ebay often helps. A little bit of cleaning and painting go a long way.

[bannedbiker]

A little bit of cleaning and painting go a long way.

Very true.
That's the biggest thing most people are impressed with when they see photo's of the NRS, when we got it some panels were missing and every panel was a different colour. Just by getting the missing panel and painting the bodywork white, the frame n engine n exhaust black and the swinger silver the bike looks so much better.
Nobody notices that it's now got original mirrors, and screen, and the fork-brace is on, and its got a new brake master cylinder, and I've set up the carb properly, and cleaned out the air filter and box, and I've rebuilt the can, and seated the front tyre properly on the rim, and had the seat recovered, and put new grips on it, and new brake pads/shoes in etc etc!
I intended to give it new honda decals, and then give it some colour with red speedblocks or stripes, but I never had time, had to get on the road (n then it had to go :( )

[Gearbox]

That's it exactly. Most folk only see the shiney stuff. Classic example was at Knebworth show last month. A lovely KH250 Kawasaki was on show. Looked beutiful, even inside the exhausts was clean. Pity it did'nt run....

Good source for Honda pa.rts is David Silver (if you did'nt know) and graphics from Sunrise Graphics

[bannedbiker]

That's it exactly. Most folk only see the shiney stuff. Classic example was at Knebworth show last month. A lovely KH250 Kawasaki was on show. Looked beutiful, even inside the exhausts was clean. Pity it did'nt run....


Haha, nice!



Good source for Honda pa.rts is David Silver (if you did'nt know) and graphics from Sunrise Graphics

Yeah, a few people told me about him, I've had a couple XL's in the past too. He never had the parts I was looking for though! Luckily a local(ish) scrappy got an NSR the same year as mine in while we were halfway through the build...!
For graphics I just use eBay or one of the local sprayers here has a machine to cut vinyls. He's really good actually, a few years ago I got him to take a photo of one of my tattoos, feed it into his clever machine, then out popped a vinyl print of it! I had it on the front of my WR250F.

[Gearbox]

Pretty impressive bit of kit that can reproduce that quality. Only drawback that I can see is that you need an original to copy.

David Silver's website is pretty good for lists or partnumbers and they are often cheaper than a main dealer.

If you need part numbers/diagrams have a look at Motogrid.com. You can see the parts diagrams and part numbers of bikes from the Japanese big four. Also possible to insert part numbers into their database and get a list of which bikes they were used on. Very handy if you are using scrappies

[bannedbiker]

Pretty impressive bit of kit that can reproduce that quality. Only drawback that I can see is that you need an original to copy.

David Silver's website is pretty good for lists or partnumbers and they are often cheaper than a main dealer.

If you need part numbers/diagrams have a look at Motogrid.com. You can see the parts diagrams and part numbers of bikes from the Japanese big four. Also possible to insert part numbers into their database and get a list of which bikes they were used on. Very handy if you are using scrappies

Yeah, it is bloody clever! It's huge too! we've got a very simple small version of it at work, it can only do text and symbols it knows on a roll about 6" wide, the one they used to reproduce my tattoo can do anything you want (including tracing from photographs) and work on a roll around 3' wide!

Cool, I'll remember that webiste, sounds good.

[bannedbiker]

Sorry for the poor pic, but this is what he did (No idea why I've got this photo on my work PC, but here it is!)

[Gearbox]

I see what you mean. That's impressive as it came originally from a bit of you.

Looks good on the bike

[bannedbiker]

I see what you mean. That's impressive as it came originally from a bit of you.

Looks good on the bike

Thanks.
I did intend to get a few of my other tattoos done and put them on the rear side panels, the rear mudguard and also on the fork protectors. Never got round to it though, the big end bearing ceased, caused a LOT of damage (£1k+ just in parts) and then I never actually got it running right after! (well, it ran just fine, but it would burn an entire sump of oil in 10miles! amazingly with no smoke at all!)
I ended up doing a straight swap for my bandit6s:

[Gearbox]

Nice Bandit. I really like the red ones.

I have had a few mates that owned them and got on well. Engine is pretty much bulletproof as long as you keep up the oil services.

I'll dig out a pic of the Honda

[bannedbiker]

Ta. Haha, you sound a bit ladie-like saying you like the red ones...! :p
I always intended to get rid of the fairing and put twin-spots on, but it was a fair bit of work as with the newer ones the clocks are all intergrated into the fairing, not mounted on the yoke/bars like the older ones.
Always ended up thinking about doing it then realising MOT was coming up so I'd better get brake pads/chain n sprockets/tyres n could never resist Pirrelli dragon corsa evo's... so much money n they never lasted more than a few months but so much grip!

Yeah, the engines are definatly bulletproof, I'll vouch for that! When I first got it I was still a bit young, dumb n full of...:biglaugh:

[Gearbox]

I like the red bandits in favor of the other colours. They just suit the colour. A bit like Ducatis as well.

Twin headlamp job can look good, bit like a Speed triple

Nice to hear that you enjoy it though

[turbine2]

Red bikes are always almost as fast as black ones (says he who used to have a red blackbird and now rides a black R1150GS)

[Ignacious]

Ive owned a 1996 suzuki GSF 600N bandit(mark 1),bought from new,travelled through all weathers in Germany,France,Belgium,Denmark and all over the uk..just over 60 thousand miles...love it,especially after several cough cough modifications..its reliability,useability is what motivated me in the first place,as also to save fuel and travelling time..(comuting to and from southampton is a nightmare!!)They do have issues...crap exhaust dowmipes,poor brakes,soft suspension..but after a couple of mods..love it!!:biglaugh:

[Ignacious]

oh...and its red!!!!:D

[ruffday]

Well I had to stop riding last year due to health problems but have been on road bikes for 25 years and off road bikes for 5 years before that so plenty of experiance.

You wont go far wrong with a bandit or a CBR600 both very good bikes. The bandit has the advantage of no plastics so cheaper to fix and therefore cheaper to insure. But make sure its comfy.
Check out e bike insurance if your looking to mod it. I found them very good.

Make sure you get some decent kit. Good quailty textile is as good as leather any day.
Get a good quality helmet that fits properly. Good dosnt mean expensive. I personally wouldnt touch a £500 Aria but thats me. A few years ago MCN did a test on 50 helmets and at the time a £100 FM beat everything including top off the range £500 helmets.

Get a good pair of sturdy boots ( i still love my para boots )

Get some good strong gloves.

Most of all enjoy it.

[Axios]

Hein and gerick all ways gets my vote for their leathers, textile suits.
If you go for the cheap or middle of the range stuff make sure you pay for the uprated padding for the trousers and jackets, also make so they can be zipped together.

Dont skimp on the gloves. all ways worth spending a little extra and getting something better. saves the freezing pain from long cold rides.

I'd also recomend a helemt that has removeable insides.
Give em a wash when the helmet starts to smell a bit funky.

[Bratty]

Bikes are great when it is Sunny and you are just ripping around, but some off my most unenjoyable motoring experiences have been driving a motorbike (sometimes Very long distances ie. Germany to Inverness Via Calais) in the rain.
Think of it like this "No Windscreen Wipers"," No Heating", "No Ventelation when your Visor becomes Fogged", "Being sat in an uncomfortable position in wet underclothes" (The Rain WILL get in!!).

Then the BEST BIT! DIESEL on A WET ROAD, normally on roundabouts but could be anywhere!

Bikes are fun, but you have to be realistic.

Dunk

[towcestervag]

cbr600f
best of both worlds comfy and its a sports tourer so quite nippy/nimble 160mph 0-60 4secs 150miles to a tank also got and get best reveiws in its class
had mine for 6 yrs now and i still enjoy riding it
plus being a honda is reliable and the build quality is better than the others
as for gear yes get your ideas from hein gericke but go to the bmf show to buy as you get last years stock at discount prices

[Avant4me]

Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat. It was the predecessor to the R6, but much more road focussed. More powerful than the Fazer and a damn site more comfortable than an R6. I bought mine as a first bike after DAS course and still have it. 90% of the time its as fast as any of the 600s available. Its been on track and to Holland and back.

[Eshrules]

I don't doubt the YZF600R's a good starter bike, but it's a IG 14 bike, 100bhp, like the ninja and gsxr - so massively out of my reach in terms of what it'd cost to insure I'm afraid :(

[V6H]

Hi im new to the forum and a biker. I run a 05 plate tuono. But as a first big bike i would look for a suzuki 600 bandit they can be got for £1000 and less cheap to run cheap to modify and insure. I real good all rounder.

[Ignacious]

yes..early bandit engine is the same engine as the GSX 600 and also a sleeved down GSXR enging....the early oil cooled engine(known as the slabbie!!).the engine swap for the 750 to fit the 600 is a doddle..only involves swappiung the sump to fit the downpipes!!endless grin factor,good allrounder..yes,i am being biased..but theyre cheap as chipss...ive seen some go for near the 500 quid mark,but as theyre quite popuilar for couriers and bike schools they needto be looked over well.good luck.Tim

[V6H]

buy i 600cc for about 600 quid and lob a 1200 bandit lump in and:You_Rock_:naughty:

[rederic]

First big bike ? you wont go far wrong with a bandit or a fazer

Riding kit . you dont have to have all the most expensive gear its more important that it fits right its no good having ce armour if its moves about you need it to fit

Insurance some will give a disscount for a good car record carole nash do a six wheel car and bike thing

Most important is training get the best you can do extra post exam training dont ride like a knob (untill you get more time on the road ) do not try to keep up with your mates

I do about 25,000+ happy miles a year on mine in all weathers.

Good luck and keep it upright :beerchug:

[gaz2923]

gsxr 600 k1

sold it recently though before it had chance to kill me which I started to get the feeling it was trying to do every day

get some good gear and ride safe

[Andy Avant]

Old Skool 99 blade in Cadbury colours :burnout:Roll on the summer and hopefully the TT for the first time

[Ignacious]

Hi there,sorry ive just arrived late to hear the tail end of this comment/post.There are some insurance companies that will transfer the no claims from one vehicle to another..mine did!i transfered 6 years no claims from a car insurance to a bike,but have yet to find one that will transfer from bike to car,yes...any accidents or claims taken out on a car or bike will be valid on any further policies...does that make sense???i just reread it and think ive made myself clear??!!!i cant wait for summer or warm weather to ride again properly!!and NO..im not a fair weather biker..ive owned a suzuki bandit for 14 years and this is the ONLY year ive taken it off the road!do i miss it??oh yes,i work in southampton and commute 15 miles round trip..in a car it takes 1/2 hour each way..by bike 10 minutes!!grin factor??10/10:biglaugh:

[Tuscan]

Bike - shop around for a mid - late 90s CBR600, they were rated highly in their day and have the advantage of a fairing.

Helmet/clothing - I've always stuck with Shoei but as has been said in previous post you should find what make fits your head. I've had paramedics say stay away from flip front lids as they can pop open and grind your chin away and that a £100 helmet behaves the same as a £500 helmet in a crash. I find Cordura clothing is comfier and more practical if I'm going to be on and off the bike alot but can't beat leather for overall protection.

Whatever you end you with, stay safe and enjoy