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amethyst
03-06-2007, 12:43 PM
Hello All,
Seen a few postings on this, but nothing wholly relevant. Symptoms:

1. Dashboard warning 'Luggage Compartment Open'
2. Checked - it wasn't, but warning remained on.
3. Checked rear wash/wipe operation - OK, except washer rotates with wiper istead of spraying just one point on the screen. Novel perhaps, but not right! Washer jet therefore seems seized to its outer tube (which carries the wiper arm).
4. Removed trim surrounding wash/wipe motor - insulation pad immed adjacent to motor very wet.
5. Left trim out to dry, left tailgate open overnight.
6. Everything dry. No warnings, but can't use wash/wipe cos it'll happen again.

Need help on:
A. Assuming it's due to a leak from the washer supply tube, why does the warning come on, and why indicate a 'compartment open'?
B. The wiring harness runs under the boot sill past the lock retaining pin - how do I remove that trim to check the harness remains dry?
C. How do I renew/repair the tube supplying the washer? I cannot determine the actual leakage point but it must be somewhere around the actual entry to the motor; does the tube just pull off?
D. How do I free the washer jet from the splined wiper boss so it doesn't rotate with the wiper?

Any advice much appreciated.

Peter

valley rower
03-06-2007, 01:06 PM
I had a similar problem with the washer leaking, the warning light kept coming on because water had got into the switch which tells if the boot is open. Washer connection was replaced and new switch. Got mine done at vw as it was under warranty.
Hope this helps

amethyst
03-06-2007, 03:15 PM
OK, thanks a lot.

Stevef.
03-06-2007, 05:13 PM
Hi, I had the same problem with mine (not the dash light though) there`s a small tube runs up the centre of the wiper motor spindle, corrosion in the spindle had sheared the tube off inside so water squirts into the tailgate and out of the jet. You need to remove the inner panel to get to it and take off the wiper motor, I cut the tube back to a good point, drilled the corrosion and old bit out of the wiper spindle, fitted a sleeve over the bit of tube what was left and pushed another bit of tube into the other side of the sleeve then reassembled it probably wont last forever but i will just repair it again if it does go.

chris_lyon82
17-12-2007, 05:37 PM
Hi,

I bought my 4motion last Saturday privately. The people who I bought it off warned me to be carefull if I washed the car as it can (and has) knock the tubing out of the rear washer, but they did not warn me about it leaking when used.

Went to go out in it earlier and I was getting the luggage compartment warning on and on opening the boot found washer liquid inside. I now see that this is a common problem.

My golfs due a service in a few hundred miles so I will get VW to repair the back washer (I dont fancy taking the panels off) but I am wondering if anyone else on here has had this repaired by VW and if so how much did it cost?

Thanks

fenboy
20-05-2009, 10:23 PM
A friend of mine has a Golf Gttdi and had the rear washer leak problem. He said the plastic tube from a ballpoint pen can be cut to length!!!! It worked for him. For 2 years so far.

jonathanfenton
21-05-2009, 10:18 AM
I would reccommend the moter repair kit. It comes with new cogs copper pipe nipple washers screws gaskets rubber grommits and greese and costs around 25-30 and your moter will be like new again! I have posted the part number on several other posts. I did mine and its fantastic again... touches wood.... the jet shoots dead central and doesnt diviate at all now. The copper tube dries up and then snaps. I will go and find the part number.

jonathanfenton
21-05-2009, 10:21 AM
8L0998711
It will solve all your moter linkage/wash problems honestly....

Bill Badger
22-05-2009, 03:33 PM
Had the problem with mine too, although the door open light didn't come on.

The problem on mine (as on others I think), is that the tube passing through the motor leaks due to the small hole in the brass pipe becoming blocked, and this is compounded when the plastic pipe has gone hard. To do any sort of repair, the panel has to be removed from the tailgate. Don't just stop at repairing the pipe though, because if my car is anything to go by, the water will have washed away some of the grease in the motor, and what is left will probably have gone hard. Make a good job of it and take out the motor, clean it and pack with grease again. Don't stretch the plastic pipe to make it reach the brass pipe, but if needed, add a length of plastic tube (which is easily available from Halford etc).

Just a comment regarding the water jet - I may stand to be corrected, but my water jet moves with the wiper. It doesn't remain in one place. (Sorry if I seem vague, but my wife uses the car more than me - I just fix it!)

jonathanfenton
22-05-2009, 03:46 PM
Had the problem with mine too, although the door open light didn't come on.

The problem on mine (as on others I think), is that the tube passing through the motor leaks due to the small hole in the brass pipe becoming blocked, and this is compounded when the plastic pipe has gone hard. To do any sort of repair, the panel has to be removed from the tailgate. Don't just stop at repairing the pipe though, because if my car is anything to go by, the water will have washed away some of the grease in the motor, and what is left will probably have gone hard. Make a good job of it and take out the motor, clean it and pack with grease again. Don't stretch the plastic pipe to make it reach the brass pipe, but if needed, add a length of plastic tube (which is easily available from Halford etc).

Just a comment regarding the water jet - I may stand to be corrected, but my water jet moves with the wiper. It doesn't remain in one place. (Sorry if I seem vague, but my wife uses the car more than me - I just fix it!)

I am sorry to say then that your copper pipe has indeed snapped then. The nipple is lubricated onto the end of the copper pipe. The greese dries up and the nipple and pipe snap so when the wiper moved the nipple moves too. The repair kit i mentioned replaces that pipe the washers/grommits and the nipple oh and all the cogs inside and comes with the correct greese for the cogs and a different greese for copper pipe and nipple assembully. You could do with one of the repair kits i mentioned earlier.

Also where you attach the watersupply pipe on the back of the moter the that elbow connnector is crimped onto the end of the brass pipe so if that snaps then you need the whole new peice which is a none changeable item (unless you buy the repair kit). You can cut it back and add a peice of pipe but surely the nipple will not stay squirting upwards but move with the wiper and end up washing your boot! depends if you just want it to work any old way or want it to work like it used to and was intended to... personnaly i chose the later and i havent looked back since :beerchug: